I am planning on upgrading to a Hottop B-2K from my Westbend Air Crazy Popcorn Popper. I would love to be able to monitor/control the roast on my computer using a program Roastlogger. From researching it seems I am jumping in on this project at the perfect time, as HTC board manufacturer has been on a hiatus for awhile and just got back last month.

Anyways, I have been trying to figure out how to exactly go about this and have seem to find a TON of information that has my head spinning a bit, I have very a minimal tech background.

I have decided to go with the HTC+TC4C mainly because there is a kit and it comes assembled.
Also, I am not sure how the HTC differs from the HTShield....

I did find Randy Glass's wonderful RoastLogger manual, which was very helpful. But before I jump in and start purchasing I am hoping that someone more familiar with this could help check my shopping list and elaborate on a few items. Any help would be much appreciated.

I understand that I would need to purchase:
1) HTC+TC4C kit: http://www.mlgp-llc.com/htri/index.html
2) 8-wire control cable: http://hottopusa.com/Merchant2/merchant ... ry_Code=Pe
3) 12" USB cable B male type: http://www.cablestogo.com/product/28071
3) K thermocouples (2) - - - Any suggestions for brand and/or size?
4) Should I get multimeter? If yes, I noticed the suggested is the Victor 86 B for Roastlogger. Any other suggestions?
5) Mounting equipment... I am not sure how I would like to do it yet, as I have not seen the machine in person. I know there are several ways to go about this but, any suggestions?

Have I missed anything?

Thank you in advanced!

Thanks for the kind words in regards to my workl on the manual.

For thermocouples, the best and (in the long run) least expensive are the basicinsulated thermocouples from Omega. Get some stainless steel tubing from ebay and cut around 1" lengths. Use JB Weld to secure them through the rear wall and use either high temp RTV to "glue" the thermocouples into the tubing or use high temperature silicone tubing inside the stainless tube, with the thermocouples inside the tubing., Either method allows easy replacement of the thermocouples in the future. I also ran my thermocouples through silicone tubing inside the roaster as it protects them from damage as well as makes it easy to secure the tubing with clamps. If you have a laptop there is little need for the Multimeter at all since Roastlogger will do all that you need in that regard, and more.

When using the JB Weld, use a rotary tool or equivalent to COMPLETELY remove the coating on the backside of the rear wall and make the metal surface good and rough.

Thank you for your reply Randy. It is much appreciated.

Have a few more questions, probably basic and might be stupid but I have minimal experience with this.

1) Will there be a notable difference in durability and response time between K-KK-20-25 (http://www.omega.com/pptst/KK_WIRE.html) and 5TC-TT-K-30-36 (http://www.omega.com/pptst/5TC.html)?

2) Randy, does the silicon tubing extend into the 1'' protruding stainless steel conduit? Or is the silicon tubing just for protection in the electronics portion of the roaster?

3) How did you attach the conduit to the back wall? Did you leave about 1/8" on the outside of the drum and use JB Weld to secure it into place? I have seen compression fittings be used. If a simpler set-up is just as adequate I would prefer it.

IntrepidQ3 wrote:1) Will there be a notable difference in durability and response time between K-KK-20-25 (http://www.omega.com/pptst/KK_WIRE.html) and 5TC-TT-K-30-36 (http://www.omega.com/pptst/5TC.html)?

The first is just a roll of wire so you would need a welder to create the junction. If you had one of those, you likely wouldn't need to ask the question.. you'd be giving US answers!

2) Randy, does the silicon tubing extend into the 1'' protruding stainless steel conduit? Or is the silicon tubing just for protection in the electronics portion of the roaster?

I ran the thermocouples through silicone tubing nearly their entire length from behind the rear wall where they exit the stainless steel tubing to just a few inches short of where they connect to the boards. To secure the thermocouples inside the stainless steel tubing you can use a high temperature RTV OR a short piece of silicone tubing. Thermocouple inside short length of silicone tubing, then that assembly stuffed into stainless tube.

3) How did you attach the conduit to the back wall? Did you leave about 1/8" on the outside of the drum and use JB Weld to secure it into place? I have seen compression fittings be used. If a simpler set-up is just as adequate I would prefer it.

For the two machines I did, I used compression fittings. I cut the threaded wend off and used JB weld to hold them onto the chamber wall. It was overkill. I recommend just drill an appropriate size hole, JBW the stainless steel tube through the wall, and then insert the thermocouple through the stainless and secure as mentioned above.

Again, thank you very much for taking the time to answer my fundamental questions. I am very excited for this project and do not want to mess it up due too much guess work.

Randy G. wrote: The first is just a roll of wire so you would need a welder to create the junction. If you had one of those, you likely wouldn't need to ask the question.. you'd be giving US answers!

This is why I am very thankful for your help. Obviously, I am not qualified to even give guesswork answers
Maybe one day with the help and guidance of the wonderful folks of HB, such as yourself, I will be able to help others in the future.

IntrepidQ3 wrote:Maybe one day with the help and guidance of the wonderful folks of HB, such as yourself, I will be able to help others in the future.

If you have read my website you know I started out in much the same way. I thought $125 for an espresso machine that "just makes coffee" should be plenty to spend! With the help of lots of folks on alt.coffee when it was still a valuable resource I ended up making my first purchase of equipment at about $850.. that was back in late 2000. Now I work in the coffee industry. So.. I suppose the lesson is, "Be careful what you wish for!"

Indeed I have read much of the posts on your site. Extremely helpful for me when I was first staring my espresso journey this last October. Still is very informative! I went through many of the same revelations as you did, such as $125 should be enough. I read this after thinking I bit the bullet and got a Bararza Vario and Gaggia Classic. I laughed to myself and said wow isn't this the truth. Since I started though I have come to realize the money I spent on my setup is chump change to the avaerage HB users set up. trying to explain the $800ish I spent isn't that big of a deal to someone not familiar is very difficult to almost impossible haha.

One day I'll join ranks, but first on my list is getting proper freshly roasted beans!

I stopped telling people what the street price of my grinder is. It is beyond their comprehension. As with so many people here, the burrs for my grinder cost around 5 times more than what most coffee drinkers spend on their entire coffee-making setup. Sure, that is usually a Mr. Coffee and a jug of Folgers, but still.

"Do you suffer from a mental illness?"
"No, not at all. I am enjoying every moment of it!"