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Exhaust for the Quest M3 roaster - Page 2

Postby Arpi on Fri Dec 25, 2009 10:38 pm

Hi.

They don't have a vendor in the US. They ship directly from Taiwan.

The price I paid for the Quest M3 Roaster ~ 6 months ago was $850 + $120 (shipping) + [$30 (money order expense)] = $1000. But don't know the current price.

Company: Fonglong Enterprise
Email: fairy0025@hotmail.com
Address: Wuncian, Kaohsiung
Taiwan 833, Taiwan
Phone:886-07-7331112
Fax:886-07-7337730

Cheers
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Postby Arpi on Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:21 am

Important good finding for owners of Quest M3 roaster

This is more about the intake than the exhaust. I got very good heat transfer using the fan all the way. However this requires a warm air ambient temperature like 70F. If the room temperature is 60F the heat transfer by convection is very poor.

Now here comes the trick. You can get super high heat transfer at 60F room temperature too! If you put a kitchen towel making a semi circle around the intake hole, you create a micro climate that reaches 78F even when the room temperature is 60! My measurements of delta BT are super high and the heat transfer is very high. This will allow to roast very sensitive (low density) beans at very low MET in semi-cold room temperature. You could also use this trick to increase the charge (load) while keeping a fast roast time. Don't block the hole! Restrictions in the hole decrease the deltaBT. The more air it gets the better, but make it suck the air from the direction of the drum/walls.

Here is my picture. As you can see, if doesn't have to be in a neat arrangement. If you want, you could play with the towel till you get a a max reading in the micro climate area using a thermometer. Roaster needs to be already warm.

Image

Regards

EDIT: During an actual normal roast, the air intake temp will reach the 130Fs in the microclimate area with ambient temp of 67F.
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Postby Arpi on Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:58 pm

This is a little bit more elegant solution though you could just take a 2-3/4" wide long partition and bend it around.

Image

Image

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Postby another_jim on Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:18 pm

Nice! I'm glad you checked this out. I was wondering if drawing the air in from around the drum case would increase the roaster's efficiency.

I'm not sure any of this necessary, but it's fun to tweak these things
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Postby another_jim on Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:11 pm

I tried a jury rigged intake baffle on a roast of 225 grams of the FVA (I've been using it as my regular blender). The roast ran about a minute and half faster than the simulation based on all my past M3 roasts. This is significant, since the none of the past roasts deviates from the simulation by more than 40 seconds.
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Postby Arpi on Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:06 pm

Hi Jim.

I think the heat is coming from the little black cooling fan and not the walls. Oops never mind. I went to check it and it is a blow-in fan (not blow-out) jeje.

Now that I know that the fan is for blowing cool air, I made me a new baffle (partition) to take the fan out of the area (don't want to blow hot air inside the motor box). This is what happens now. It works very well as before. The heat in that area builds up slowly, so if you uncover the baffle, all the stored heat gets lost. Put it back, and the thermometer reading in that area gets higher and higher and so does the deltaBt. Once you remove the baffle and then put it back you start from zero building up heat. I am scratching my head.

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Postby another_jim on Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:37 am

I had my baffle (a sheet of tin foil) extended further around the drum housing. The air flowed around the drum and got heated, then into the hole. The most efficiency would be to put a casing around the upper exhaust tube and draw the air through that. This would recover the exhaust heat to preheat the intake air, like in a Franklin stove. It would probably require beefing up the main fan. I may take off the insulation wrapped around the drum housing, and, instead, build an insulated outer case that covers all the air tubing and is open at the front of the drum. The air would flow through this outer case and get preheated before entering the hole in the drum case.
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Postby Arpi on Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:54 am

It makes a lot of sense. I remember you said something about that a while back.

I had a thermocouple meter placed in the intake area and I was reading temperatures in the 130Fs and 140Fs (with the baffle). I think the exhaust temp is in the high 200Fs. So there is a lot of heat lost in the air through the surfaces.
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Postby Arpi on Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:32 am

Hi again.

I did yesterday more roasts. It seems that it helps not doing a good job covering the area completely. It needs breathing.

The thermocouple I used to check the temperature gets hotter slowly with time. It may be getting hotter by radiation, so that would explain why it is so slow. The surface of the towel or baffle also gets warmer.

The best performance of deltaBT is when doing a fast dive from high temperatures. I guess there is more residual heat in the intake and the roaster. So warm up the roaster to high temp, then if you need to start at a lower temp do a dive. A fast dive is achieved by cutting the power and opening both the drop door and the chimney door.

The help from the baffle or a towel is not that big if doing the roast in a hot room. It has a bigger effect when the room is cold (low performance) when compared to the results of roasting in a hot room. When the room is cold using a baffle/towel has a bigger impact.

Since the time I started using a static cling to filter the air around the basket, I've never had to clean the fan blades yet. It does an excellent job but I guess it affects the vacuum power. But the opposite is also true. If the blades are kept clean then the better the performance.

Cheers
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