Hi folks.

I've been reading this french page http://www.malongo.com/uk/coffee/torrefacteur.html and they make roasting look easy. They recommend preheating to 220C then after dropping the beans, the temp drops to 120C and it should climb back to 220C in approx 20 minutes. At minute 17 look for desired roast level. They don't mention 'crack'. But at least they give temp initial goals and an overall approach (My background has been roasting till recently on a fresh roast+ jeje).

Now, my guest is that every bean should be roasted different. And my question is if it is only a matter of stopping the roast at a desired level. But Does initial 220C sound OK as a basic goal? It makes a lot of sense to me.

Second question. How does lengthening the time between first and second crack affect the roast?

TX

"traditional roasting


Traditional roasting is done using gas burners, which heat the oven to a temperature of 220°C. The green coffee beans are fed into the oven through a funnel. The arrival of this cold mass causes the temperature to drop to 120°C. It climbs back up to 220°C in the space of 20 minutes.

Roasting is controlled automatically for the first 17 minutes, then an operator takes over and relies on the appearance, smell and sound of the coffee. To do this, he uses a probe to withdraw a few grains. When the coffee is ready, it is dropped into a cooling tray. The blue smoke is due to the presence of anhydrous carbon, an aroma-carrying gas.

Once roasted, the weight of the coffee has decreased by 20 % but its volume has increased by 60 % There is another method for cooling the coffee, using water. This is not fraudulent in any way because by law, roast coffee beans may contain up to 5% water but there is a disadvantage: the water oxidises the coffee, blocks the aroma and adds to the weight of the packet of coffee sold."

The entire page is BS. There are some facts, but it's all distorted beyond recognition to create an ad for their coffees.

Check the home roasting FAQ topics, Ken Davids book on home roasting, and Sweetmaria's instructions. For detailed information, read the chapter in Illy, and then read Schenker's roasting dissertation.

TX Jim.

I don't own ken David's book yet. I think I own two from him but they didn't ring as special to me. I already read sweet marias link and the pictorial description. It helps. The other book mentioned is for air roasting, isn't it? I went to take a look it was like a 20 Mbs download. Does it talk about general or drum roasting?

I got me a little roaster and I was trying to get a feel for it. What temp do you preheat your roaster at? Do you always use the same initial temp?

TX

I got me a little roaster and I was trying to get a feel for it. What temp do you preheat your roaster at? Do you always use the same initial temp?

Arpi
What are you using for a roaster?
Ed

The Quest m3 roaster. It is a 200gram sampler roaster that can be temperature controlled.

Sorry guys. I have to go I'll answer back tomorrow.

Cheers and TX for your help

The SCAA guideline for small sample roasters is to eight to twelve minute roasts to cupping roast levels (around Agtron 57 whole bean, 62 ground). For medium roasts, you'd add a minute to two.

Based on everyone I've talked to, it will take considerable time learning how to get an acceptable profile. Drop ins are typically 325 to 400 depending on model, and are designed to get the beans to around 300F in around 5 minutes, followed by maximum heat to get to the first crack in another 3 to 4. The real trick is then cutting back the heat enough to finish the roast at a leisurely pace without stalling the roast.

I think Jim addresses most of your questions in a post here:

Timing first crack heat reduction

As stated, there is still plenty of room here to be golden or completely screw it up, but at least should get you close.

Your Quest M3 should(I think!!) share more with the Hottop-B than it does with commercial sample roasters; with the main difference(to me eyes, from online pics!!) being your drum is solid while the HT's is perforated.

Maybe the Hottop-B's profiles would be a good starting point. And congratulations on the new(to you, to the market & to H-B!) roaster!

TX all for the info.

Lets see if I got it right. There are different profiles for different bean densities/type (apart from roast flavor). And I want to do a roast that does not kill the bean flavor (terroir) by overpowering the roast flavor. The goal is to find the middle ground of the two. So it comes down to something like this:

Keep a log of the roast with times, beans, etc

1 warm up roaster till a specific temp (anticipate how much temp drop by roaster and bean mass. For example expect a drop of 212F (100C) if using 1/2 lbs in a small roaster. For example, a good starting value value could be 428F (200C). That way, after the drop, the starting env temp will be 428 - 212 = 216F. From point 1 to 6 use only env temp.

2 Dump the beans and watch the how temp drops

3 At this point wait and preheat the beans at moderate/low (use this to maybe control humidity) power till 300F (149C) where the profile starts (beginning of ramp)

4 Start the ramp (starts profile). If the profile calls for a fast raise use full power. If I want a slow raise use some middle power.

(wait ~6-10 mins depending on roaster or desired profile (make need power adjustments). Drum roasters take longer than air roasters)

5 Listen for first crack (380F to 390F = 193C to 199C ). Get ready to bring down the power or cool the beans by fan at first crack (if possible bring the power down before the crack). The temp should never reverse, always climb but a slower pace (feather).

6 If doing a light roast, try to prolong the time between first crack and second crack for ~5 minutes. Do this by bringing power down.

7 look for color or sample beans if possible. Best method is to check beam temp. This is the only place in the roast process where bean temp is important. This step, 7, is where the roast flavor (light to dark) is chosen.


Please, make as many many corrections as needed



Cheers

coffee.me wrote:Your Quest M3 should(I think!!) share more with the Hottop-B than it does with commercial sample roasters; with the main difference(to me eyes, from online pics!!) being your drum is solid while the HT's is perforated.

Maybe the Hottop-B's profiles would be a good starting point. And congratulations on the new(to you, to the market & to H-B!) roaster!

Yes. I am very interested in finding out what the different profiles do in the hottop. It is kind of a 'cloak' to use profile 1, profile 2, etc, without not knowing what each one does and what are their goals and why.

TX