Behmor Plus panel upgrade versus 40amp SSVR+Pot - Page 2

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
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millcityroasters
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#11: Post by millcityroasters »

JojoS wrote:Computing Ohm's Law is easy but you know how it is with some China made electronics. BTW, the elements + the afterburner is rated at 1600 watts. The elements alone I think is around 1000 watts and also I have the 220-240 volt version. Thanks for the input Mr. Green.
I roasted on a Behmor for 3 years. I've also used these exact same SSVR's for immersion heater control for over 10 years. I think this is a good idea and I'm slightly chagrined to have not thought of it myself previously.

I've found component quality to be generally pretty good and, even with the 25 amp model, your wattage is probably well within the margin of safety for a sustained current draw. Heat is your biggest enemy. Use a good heat sink and you won't have any problem.

My experience with these is that failures are extremely rare. When they fail, they usually fail open, by which I mean they won't pass current. On the rare occasion they fail closed, you'll only be passing the original full current. This won't hurt anything either.

I'm writing this stuff less for you than for the legions of Behmor users that are going to be inspired by you. This is probably going to work and I think it's probably going to work pretty well.

This sounds like a super fun hack. Enough fun to almost make me want another Behmor.

JojoS (original poster)
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#12: Post by JojoS (original poster) »

Got everything together and tested the setup with a light bulb (thanks Ira) before connecting it to the Behmor. Did a dry burn and played with the element control. The range is pretty narrow. Barely glowing at 12 o'clock with full glow at 5 o'clock max. Time to roast and see how this 20 USD hack turns out.

ira
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#13: Post by ira replying to JojoS »

If you have a way to measure power usage, connect that and you'll get a much better idea of what it's actually doing. It can still be quite hot but not red.

Ira

JojoS (original poster)
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#14: Post by JojoS (original poster) »

All went well with 4 batches almost back to back. I did my usual P3 B with the Brazil Bob-O-Link Blue. P1 A for Yemen Haraazi, Guatemala Huehuetenango Finca Villaure and Panama Elida Natural. I am finally done with door dance and the smoke that it creates even when I roast under a vented range hood. Not opening the door until 1 minute after cooling cycle to remove the drum for external cooling has allowed the Behmor to fully make use of it's smoke suppression system and it is pretty effective.

Now to wait 5 days before I start pulling shots to compare with the old method.

JojoS (original poster)
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#15: Post by JojoS (original poster) »

BTW, I settled on a 25amp SSVR as suggested by Mr. Steve Green when I brought up the question.

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millcityroasters
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#16: Post by millcityroasters »

Super cool!

I'd try installing thermocouples in the roasting chamber and start logging with Artisan.

Maybe one between the drum and the elements to get a better indication of your now adjustable heating output. Maybe another on the other side of the drum far enough removed from the heating elements would give some epeatable indication of a process temp.

Bunkmil
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#17: Post by Bunkmil »

Could you post some pics of your mods and write about the steps you went through?

Do you think that someone who knows almost nothing about electronics can achieve this mod ? It's been a few people that I've seen hacking their Behmor in order to have more control over the heating element and it's becoming more and more tempting.

JojoS (original poster)
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#18: Post by JojoS (original poster) »

This mod is for the original Behmor. It will be redundant with a Behmor Plus since there is already a heat level control in the newer model.

ira
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#19: Post by ira replying to JojoS »

Given the willingness to put up with the inconvenience, I'd suggest that your solution probably gives a lot better control than the plus upgrade.

Ira

JojoS (original poster)
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#20: Post by JojoS (original poster) »

I suppose Behmor Plus and those who upgraded to the Behmor Plus panel can still do this mod. I believe P5 manual is capable of a lot more heat than P1 auto so it might be even more beneficial. I have yet to put together a housing for this mod so I can attach it on the right side panel. Right now the SSVR, heatsink and Pot on a bracket are just mounted on a piece of wood with two wires going to the Behmor. I just cut the wire from the PCB that leads to the element in the middle and connected them to a small ceramic terminal where the two wires coming in are connected. It is pretty simple and the circuit for it can be found in the Auber link in my earlier post for those interested in giving it a try. Just keep in mind you are dealing with electrical current.