I have an Iroast 2.

If you have any tried & true profiles, I would appreciate it.

If you can include green beans origin, that would be great.

Thanks Scott

Many of our members frequent multiple coffee sites. Please avoid cross-posting your question, or mention the other site(s) to avoid repetitive responses (link). Thanks.

So if I state in my original post that I also posted the same question on Coffee geek, that would be ok?

I'd hate to miss some helpful replies by people who only frequent one site only.

Thanks for the tip, Scott

Sure, but it gets a bit tedious for regulars. BTW, I found a number of good matches in Sweet Maria's Mailing List for "iroast profile".

Beside SM you can try link below....if you find any more than these (I Roast & SM) two let me know


http://i-roast.com/tips/list.php

After a lot of experimenting I've had best luck with the following profile:

Stage 1: 320F for 7:00
Stage 2: 390F for 1:00
Stage 3: 320F for 4:00

I usually hit the cool button with about 2:30 to 2:00 left (about 1:30 to 2:00 into Stage 3) for a total roast time of about 9:30. I determine when the beans are ready by sight, smell, and sound.

I find that typical i-Roast profiles roast way too fast. By starting out really slowly with a lower temp for a longer period of time the roast is much more even as it approaches first crack. Stage 2 on this profile will then heat it up enough to get to 2nd crack, but then I find it helps to lower the temp again since otherwise the i-Roast keeps getting hotter and will push the beans too quickly through 2nd crack.

I've found this profile to work well for most beans.

Cheers,
Ken

Scott- you may want to give Tom's (sweetmaria's Tom) iRoast tip sheet a quick read (http://sweetmarias.com/hearthware.iRoasttipsheet.html). It's fairly detailed, but may give some explanation for what many people are wondering- mainly the discrepancy between programmed temperature and measured temperature (as the machine reads it). I think many of us have gone through similar headaches trying to figure out just how much heat is really being imparted to the bean/seed (depending on your background). Several people who've owned more than one machine have figured out that the programmed temps are better correlating w/ onboard temps in the newer versions, so different folks's iRoast profiles may be off by as much as 20-30 deg F depending on the version of the machine. I think Tom's tip sheet will bear this out, and may mean more to you than programming your iRoast with someone elses profile.

Good luck!

Ray

whatever you do, don't restrict the intake of air to try to manually adjust the temp on the fly. It really screws up the batches. It took me a week to figure out why my roasts were sucking. I'm going in the other direction now, i've got a fan (connected to a rheostat) blowing more air than the onboard air. I don't know how it's gonna turn out yet.

So, i'm now using an external blower (small mattress pump) to increase airflow through the I-roast 2. It gives me the same degree of control as restricting airflow did, but produces a superior roast to even the unmodded i-roast. Rather than direct airflow in one vent while taping up the rest (it was difficult to get a good seal on all the holes - screws, buttons, etc), I placed the bottom of the iroast in a ziploc bag and taped the bag around the midpoint of the roaster. Now the pump blows air into the bag, which results in very little loss (most of the inflow air goes through the roaster). I set the roaster to 15:00 at the highest temp - 485 i think - and manually control fan speed with a light dimmer that i spliced into the wiring for the air pump. The iroast doesn't give me 485 right at the start of the roast, because of the built in electronics, but eventually i get a usable and adjustable range of temps to work with. Next up: enclosing the fan and base of iroast in a box, mounting my dimmer to the box, and also adding a thermocouple to monitor bean temp.

Ok, so hearthware apparently has a handle on the best reaction rate, i.e. the rate at which to add thermal energy to the beans. If i use a blower and higher programmed temps (for the same temp at greater airflow) i speed up the addition of heat too much and I'm left with no sugars in the beans. I don't exactly recall all the taste flaws when i restricted the airflow, but they were horrible too. Apparently the circuitry on the hearthware does more than i thought. I think the heater output adjusts in addition to the fan speeds. it's not binned quite as badly as i thought.