by another_jim on Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:01 am
Blend Espresso Results
SCORING METHOD: Sherman Chong, acting as guest judge, and I scored each coffee without consultation. After we were done tasting, but before we knew which coffee was by who, we compared notes. It was clear we were calibrated enough not to need any adjustments, and that we could average our scores to determine the winner. Our raw tasting notes are reproduced below.
We calibrated our scoring by discussing a melange blend I had put together as a par, pulled at two doses, 15.5 and 14 grams, which we set at 85 and 87.5 respectively (the lower dose was distinctly sweeter and at the blend's best potential). Unlike the SO competition, the overall scoring was based purely on the formal balance and complexity of sweetness, roast and origin flavors, without scoring rare or exquisite flavors higher than any other. The scoring guideline was this: if this was the blend at the cafe next door to you, how happy would you be getting it as your daily shot for the next ten years?
Our shot by shot procedure was to grind the coffee at the given grind setting, smell the cofffee in the doser, dose to the given weight, watch the flow, stir and taste the shot, then wait a minute or two for finish to play out, and finally give an overall 0 to 100 score. In terms of letter grades, below 80 is an F, 80 to 84.5 is D, 85 to 87.4 is a C, 87.5 to 89.9 is a B, and 90 and above is an A.
It should be noted that Sherman had both entered the competition and judged it. This is obviously improper. However, it also turns out to be impossible, when judging blind and fairly, to distinguish ones own entry in a competition of this sort. Sherman's judgment and ranking of his own entry was completely in line with mine. Since he didn't take a top place this year; I thought it better to have the extra reliability and comfort of using competent second scorer, rather than to insist on total proprietry. Leaving his scoring out does not change the top three finishers.
11th: 81.75 Tim Davis
BLEND: TBA
EXTRACTION: Dose: 17.5 grams; Grind: 15.5 grams-equiv; Flow: fast
DRY AROMA: JS: dark roast distillates SC: creosote
TASTE: JS: Very dark, not ashy, some remaining sweet SC: overwhelming sharp tannic. no body, not sweet
FINISH: JS: smokey SC: hidey, pungent
SCORE: JS: 84.5 SC: 79
10th: 83.75 Shaun (sthom)
BLEND: 50% E, 35% D, 15% C
EXTRACTION: Dose: 15.5 grams; Grind: 16.25 grams-equiv; Flow: Lungo
DRY AROMA: JS: Nutty caramels SC:lightly woody, sweet
TASTE: JS: Medium sweet, creamy body, acidic but no complexity, SC: quiet. no strong presence, boring. weak/light body
FINISH: JS: citrus peel bitters SC: bitter lemon rind finish, terminating quickly
SCORE: JS: 84.5 SC: 83
9th: 84.25 Daniel Remer
BLEND: 91% D, 9% E
EXTRACTION: Dose: 15 grams; Grind: 15.5 grams-equiv; Flow: Normal
DRY AROMA: JS: Choclate, hints of dark fruit SC: light roast notes, not much else
TASTE: JS: Pleasant roast & choc, but lacking sweetness SC: classic cup. slightly sweet, less acidic/sour, average/unassuming
FINISH: JS: Musty SC: medium body, light finish
SCORE: JS: 83 SC: 85.5
8th: 85 Todd Werner
BLEND: 50% D, 25% A, 25% E
EXTRACTION: Dose: 17 grams; Grind: 17 grams-equiv; Flow: Normal-fast
DRY AROMA: JS: mild fruit, light caramel SC:cured meat/savory smell
TASTE: JS: creamy body, but dry and grassy SC:strongly acidic, lots of high and middle at the expense of sweet. any more unbalanced and it would be marked down
FINISH: JS: grassy SC: quick lemon finish, unbalanced
SCORE: JS: 85 SC: 85
7th: 85.75 Sherman Chong
BLEND: 60% B FC, 20% C City+, 20% D FC
EXTRACTION: Dose: 17 grams; Grind: 16.25 grams-equiv; Flow: fast-lungo
DRY AROMA: JS: Choc-carael, fruit hint. SC: roast distillates, somewhat alcoholic
TASTE: JS: Balanced, classic cup SC:lots of highs, balanced but tending toward sweet
FINISH: JS: slightly soapy-flat SC: very light, almost too light. weak middle, but not harshly acidic.
SCORE: JS: 86 SC: 85.5
5th/6th 86 Stephan Kupevics
BLEND: 45% D, 45% E, 10% C, all FC
EXTRACTION: Dose: 14 grams; Grind: 13.25 grams-equiv; Flow: slow-ristretto
DRY AROMA: JS: caramel & chocolate SC: woody, toasty, vegetal
TASTE: JS: Sweet caramels, non-acidic, but not flat SC:woody, medium sweet, straightforward and somewhat monotone
FINISH: JS: roasty notes SC: medium body, light citrus finish
SCORE: JS: 86 SC: 86
5th/6th 86 Marvin Rabinowitz
BLEND: 15% A FC, 65% B FC, 6% C FC, 8% D City-, 6% E FC
EXTRACTION: Dose: 17 grams; Grind: 16.25 grams-equiv; Flow: Noral-fast
DRY AROMA: JS: dark caramels SC: woody, sweet
TASTE: JS: classic Illy lemon-toast. SC: more acidic, less balanced. low sweetness, too many highs
FINISH: JS: Fresh. SC: slightly sour and quick finish, but not terribly so.
SCORE: JS: 86.5 SC: 85.5
4th: 87.5 Henry Chang
BLEND: 65% D, 26% C, 9% A
EXTRACTION: Dose: 17 grams; Grind: 17 grams-equiv; Flow: Normal-fast
DRY AROMA: JS: mild, but oddly discordant fruit SC: vietnamese food redux - meaty/savory
TASTE: JS: perfectly balance, good body, but too plain SC: exceptionally balanced and complex. medium/light body
FINISH: JS: piney SC: lasting, well rounded. no off notes
SCORE: JS: 86.5 SC: 88.5
2nd/3rd 88.25 Rafael Cobo
BLEND: 90% E City, 5% D, 5% B
EXTRACTION: Dose: 17.5 grams; Grind: 17 grams-equiv; Flow: Normal
DRY AROMA: JS: Caramel, sharp fruit hints SC: seafood! sauteed shrimp/crab
TASTE: JS: Illy lemon-toast, but sweeter/better SC: exceptionally well balanced, present citrus and sweet, creamy body
FINISH: JS: toast to citrus, short SC: deeply complex finish. lingering syrupy orange notes
SCORE: JS: 87 SC: 89.5
2nd/3rd 88.25 Jorge Guior
BLEND: 33% A, 33% D, 33% E
EXTRACTION: Dose: 16.25 grams; Grind: 15.5 grams-equiv; Flow: normal
DRY AROMA: JS: Caramel with fruit hint SC: vietnamese food
TASTE: JS: Sweet, fruited, playful acidity, light body SC:bright, sweet, fruity and acidic in a good way. lots of high/mid notes
FINISH: JS: Clean, short SC:medium body, clean finish
Score JS: 89, SC: 87.5
Winner: 89.25 Patrick LaPlante
BLEND: 100% E
EXTRACTION: Dose: 16 grams; Grind: 15.5 grams-equiv; Flow: Normal
DRY AROMA: JS: almond and blossom SC: slightly smoky/woody. remarkable in quiet complexity
TASTE: JS: Ringer? Floral and sparkling sweet SC: exceptionally wellrounded and forward. good, thick body
FINISH: JS: Refreshing candy SC: strongly sweet and citrus finish. good lingering finish with no off notes
SCORE: JS: 90 SC: 88.5
DISCUSSION: The standard was again very high, and I was surprised at how good the three winners tasted, since I didn't think it was possible to pull this much out of these coffees. I'm a little sorry to see that Patrick's winning effort is basically an SO, all E, since that kind of puts a cramp on the notion that blends can improve less than steller coffees. But I can take some comfort in the top group being so bunched.
The mixed reaction to Tim's dark roast illustrates two things I've noticed about the objectivity of coffee taste. First off, really good tasting coffees gets unanimous or near unanimous applause from knowledgeable people. The less fortunate coffees get a mixture of mild praise and thumbs downs. Second, if you roast really light or really dark, you need to do it perfectly, since you are dealing in flavors that some of your audience doesn't naturally appreciate. With middle-light to middle-dark roasts, you have more leeway.
The three top finishers, Patrick, Rafael, and Jorge, competed last yar, and didn't do as well as would have liked. It's clear that they've picked up their game this year, congratulations to them.