2015 Yemen Marqaha

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
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TomC
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#1: Post by TomC »

People are more familiar now with this impressive coffee, it was a quick seller, even 3 years ago but now I'm certain it's audience has widened. I'm glad I have a larger roaster now, because I can't manage small batches, they never last past day 4 or 5 at most. I received my 10 pounds of coffee on Monday, roasted a small sample of it immediately and began the painful wait. Yesterday the whole bean fragrance was starting to gather momentum, but I knew it wasn't ready. I checked again about an hour ago and the fragrance made my head spin. Opening the jar released a sweet note that struck me just like the smell of when you open up a box of fresh, warm glazed donuts with a few raspberry filled ones thrown in. The sweetness was almost intoxicating.

I couldn't wait any longer and I brewed some on my Cona. This crop easily beats last years. It's early to be certain, but initial impressions are extremely positive. I have all three years now that have been offered, with some archived in the chest freezer. I could swear this might be slightly more even in it's bean size compared to last year. Last year there was an overall average smaller bean size, if my memory serves me right.

Here's a simple, from the hip profile. It doesn't match what all my traditional natural processed coffee profiles run like, but is overall consistent when I compare it to the total roast length of a 25% larger batch. There's no notes of under-development and the cup qualities absolutely sparkle.

The flavor intensity and aromatics are staggering. A deep blend of many ripe dark fruits/berries. Sweetness in bucketfuls and an even, plush, acidity. There's a hint of some exotic oriental spices lingering in the cup. Many of the fascinating notes are difficult to place, but all positive. I'll be eager to see how it develops in time.



I didn't run a second profile till yesterday, because as you can see in the above profile my ET probe wiggled loose at the end of the roast, so I had to fight with it some more.

Here's my second profile that I'll force myself to sit on for at least 4+ days.



I had a great day with Mokhtar Alkhanshali on Monday right after I roasted my first batch ( I gave him a sample of my first roast). He made an interesting comment about fine Yemen coffees, saying that if it's extraordinarily well processed, you can brew it a lot sooner than normal Yemeni coffees that we're used to having to sit on for 7 -8 days before digging in. That certainly bears true on this Marqaha.
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hipporun
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#2: Post by hipporun »

That's cool there are no under development notes, but is there a reason you roasted for such a long ramp stage and short development stage? This bean is out of my price point so I won't have the opportunity to work with it :(

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TomC (original poster)
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#3: Post by TomC (original poster) »

I think in this coffee, that's where to bulk of flavor development lies. Any protracted development time after first crack seems to just drag down these amazing fruits into less sweet, less bright components. The Quest is a highly conductive roaster, I could easily run a similar time for each phase in my bigger gas roaster and coast the post first crack development time longer if I were to want. But overall, it's far less important to dissect a profile graph than it is to follow your own sensory feedback and cup experiences. So I'm not going to drone on about a graph.
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Boldjava
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#4: Post by Boldjava »

TomC wrote:... But overall, it's far less important to dissect a profile graph than it is to follow your own sensory feedback and cup experiences. So I'm not going to drone on about a graph.
Amen, Tom. You heard me queue that up to Joe yesterday. Get on that trier.

In yielding phone calls from new purchasers of roasters, I sense folks getting too engrossed in Artisan and spending too little time on the trier. Artisan is an ideal tool which I employ, but it is just that. My question to those who seem to overweight reliance on the software is, "how is the cup?" That is what counts.
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hipporun
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#5: Post by hipporun replying to Boldjava »

I see what your saying and completely agree, but being in an unfortunate situation where I cannot roast and experience this bean, the best way I can get an idea for the coffee is to 1) Listen to others sensory notes and observations and 2) Compare it to the only consistent data I can- artisan.

While I roast I am definitely taking note of look, smell and sound of the coffee thru out the roast. Then I always cup and study my roasts flavor notes. I work according to my senses and Huky, not artisan.

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Boldjava
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#6: Post by Boldjava »

hipporun wrote:I see what your saying and completely agree, but being in an unfortunate situation where I cannot roast and experience this bean, the best way I can get an idea for the coffee is to 1) Listen to others sensory notes and observations and 2) Compare it to the only consistent data I can- artisan. . .
Well understood. My comments were not directed in response to your post at all. It was speaking to Tom's balance of profiling, roasting, and cupping. Nothing more and no offense meant.
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hipporun
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#7: Post by hipporun replying to Boldjava »

No offense taken. Just wanted it to be known. And I do agree there is an arising issue regarding balance in coffee roasting.

In the end, it's a beverage. Taste should always be the main concern.

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drgary
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#8: Post by drgary »

Tom,

I'm interested to see you trying different drying times and otherwise similar roasts, about 6 minutes drying time in the first, about 4 in the second. What are you trying to differentiate?

Also with a perforated drum would you suggest charging at a 20- 30 F higher temperature? I believe Rao suggests something like that in his book. Looking forward to your cupping of the two profiles against each other.

@ Tom and Dave: For this newbie roaster, what do you smell and see in the beans in your trier that tell you with this coffee it's time to drop them? (Other than deliciousness?)
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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hipporun
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#9: Post by hipporun »

drgary wrote: @ Tom and Dave: For this newbie roaster, what do you smell and see in the beans in your trier that tell you with this coffee it's time to drop them? (Other than deliciousness?)
That would be awesome.

And I have a few years experience in roasting. :D

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Boldjava
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#10: Post by Boldjava »

drgary wrote:...

@ Tom and Dave: For this newbie roaster, what do you smell and see in the beans in your trier that tell you with this coffee it's time to drop them? (Other than deliciousness?)
With this particular bean, I was all over that trier at about 1:30. I was waiting for more sweetness in the smell (a buried soft cherry) to develop in the roast. (Joe dropped the second roast at 1:35; I dropped at 1:50, 2:00; and 2:10, using a softer, gentler roast). I knew if I hit toasty smells (full city kind of roast), I had gone too deep.

Tom Owen has some suggestions. http://www.sweetmarias.com/library/cont ... oast-level

I didn't want the roast color to turn too dark. I was looking at standard coloring issues on a naturally processed green with which you are familiar: city, city plus, etc. I knew, from past years, I wanted "this" side of city plus rather than one that bent toward full city minus.

I can't emphasize staying on that trier when you are 30 seconds short of your preferred drop. Constantly be twirling and dumping. 5 seconds drop time does make a difference. My sight is ahead of my nose's ability. I tend to correlate based on what I see first and then the nose follows, if that makes sense. Still learning myself.

Tom will add some thoughts. It is hard to convert observations, smells, and visuals from one's experience into words. Great question though.

I will run the 2:00 and the 2:10 roasts through the Cremina at home this weekend if Nick and Steve don't hog it all up on the Cimbali at the shop.
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