[EDIT: Follow this post at your own risk! I am not an electrician or particularly good with hardware. Proceed at your own risk!]
Time: took me ~90 min . . . after the parts were delivered
- multimeter or continuity tester (optional but recommended)
- drill; bits based on cable sizes
- phillips screwdriver (cross-tip)
- electrical tape (optional)
- scissors (unless your stripper does it all)
- push-in connectors: (2) three wire, (1) two wire
- Compact box for 1/16 DIN from Auber Instruments: Cbox16, $22.32
- Auber Instruments Timer: ASL-51, $34.50
- Power cables/extension cord to slice and dice, $? (mine were laying around)
(note, most cables have a AWG rating printed on them. You should make sure the amperage/wattage of your grinder works for the cables you have and for the timer relay above. If it doesn't work for the latter, adding this doesn't seem impossible.)
Components I wish I'd bought:
- Any sort of power switch, there's no need to leave the timer on...
What I had on hand:
- Remove the front and back plates from the enclosure
- Remove the outer insulation from your power cables (no more than 6")
- Determine if all the wires will fit through the existing 1/4" hole.
- If not, grab your drill bit and, if possible, variable speed drill and ease your way into a new hole.
I drilled one new hole and expanded the existing hole.
- Slide the timer into the front plate and push the cables through the holes in the backplate such that some of the outer insulation is on the "inside".
- Add some electrical tape (or whatever) on the inside to keep the cables from pulling back out. A poor-man's way to offset any tension on the cables later.
- Using the continuity tester, ensure the internal wires on both cables match the outlet as expected. For me, it was green:ground, black:load, white:neutral.
- On the grinder-side, strip less than 1/4" of wire. Screw it into 7 between the plates (remove the screw+plate entirely and slide in.
(Note, you can get hook connectors. I did, but I got ones that were too big, so I went without. If you strip a small enough amount, no wire will be left exposed.)
- Strip both the ground wires about 1/8". Join them with a connector. You're done with ground so if you want, you can trim them back.
- Take the neutral on the outlet-side and cut it in half.
- Take the half and strip both ends and the outlet side ~1/8"
- Strip the neutral on the grinder side ~1/8"
- Join the grinder neutral, outlet neutral, and loose neutral with a three-wire connector
- Take the one loose neutral end and screw it into terminal 9.
- Similar trick for load: cut the exposed outlet load wire not far from the larger insulated area -- maybe keeping an inch.
- Cut the loose load wire in half.
- Strip both ends of the loose load wires and the original load wire as well.
- Screw one end of a loose load wire into terminal 8.
- Screw one end of the other loose load wire into terminal 10
- Join the three available load wires: 8, 10, and outlet with a 3 wire connector.
(Review the PDF for the ASL-51 on the Auber website to make sure your wiring is correct!)
uh. that's pretty much it
Prior to boxing it back up, I suggest some validation:
- Check the continuity from terminals-to-outlets for both cables
- Plug it all in and connect a lamp to the grinder-side.
- Program the timer to function 02, relay mode 04 by holding > for 10 seconds.
- Once it quits flashing, it will drop you back to where you can set the time in 00.00s using > and ^
- Set the time, then hit RST to set it off. The light should come on and stay on until the time runs out.
- If so, box it up! If not, ?????
I've used it all of five times so far, so here's hoping it lasts!