I have modified my hario to prevent wear and burr wobble. I used a length of 3/8 inch threaded tubing. I widened the plastic first using the tail end of a file then a large screwdriver.



After screwing on a threaded brass sleeve to proper position on the tubing I then slide the tubing through the tight opening I made and secured it with a nut on top.



I then shimmied another nut on the bottom using a thin screw driver made for glasses for extra measure.





The threaded portion of the spindle needed some slight filing to fit afterwards there was still plenty of thread left for the adjustment nut





Not perfect but I bet a lot better.

Nice approach - I went with stabilizing mine closer to the top of the inner burr to reduce the torque load on the thin plastic posts that anchor the top bearing housing - this area looks like a weak link.

Check out this thread - might give you some new ideas.

Hario Skerton / Open Top Hand Grinder Lid

Nice. Is that threaded rod the kind that's used for lighting fixtures?
I'd also be concerned with the stress on the "spider". I think that some sort of stabilization of the bottom is really necessary, at least for coarser grinds. OTOH, the stabilization for the bottom could be done to the threaded rod, not directly to the shaft, which would
a) allow the shaft to be the bearing, which wouldn't wear like a plastic support
b) allow for some adjustment of the bottom alignment.

OT: how is the Niluvagal 21 year old scotch? never had that particular one

The Lagavulin 12 year old is quite good in fact some of the best stuff I have had. I didn't expect the macbook camera to shoot that backwards.

As for the stress on the spider I think it will hold up. I am counting on the self centering properties of the grinder to minimize lateral forces.

The nut I screwed on the bottom is also too wide to fully screw up into the tapered cone shaped spindle support on top but makes contact with the sides very close to the bottom of it above the spider supports. This keeps the tip top portion of the grinder from absorbing all the force by reducing some of the leverage.

Supporting the bottom was my first approach but I couldn't figure out a simple, practical, non labor intensive way of doing it with common available parts that will be rock solid and long lasting.

I was however very dissatisfied with the way the threaded spindle was set up in a plastic collar that would eventually be chewed away. That flaw had to go. I found that an elongated tube with a well fitted spindle running through it would solve that problem as well as provide some pretty good centering. Let's hope that self centering during grinding tames most of the lateral forces. I will explain my optimism below.

I did make a good cup of drip today using my Technivorm it took 6 and 1/4 minutes and tasted good. The flavor was a little flat but I used beans that were about 3 to 4 weeks old with a little bit of fresh beans to spice it up. There were no stalls or excessive sludge but it did take me close to 200 turns to crunch up about 30 grams. I expect that from a conical burr set this small.

I usually use these types of grinders for either drip or moka pot and on occasion espresso just for curiousity. I rarely use them for french press as I feel press pot grind is a challenge on even some top quality grinders.

I suspect a grind as coarse a press pot would present a lot more lateral forces than drip of moka grinds although I am not sure if it would be enough to flex the spider supports. I find the plastic used on this grinder to be quite tough.

I probably will be doing a minimum amount of extra coarse grinding and may never find out if the spider supports are up to the task.

Time of course will tell and if the spiders bust I will let you guys know, but so far I have not noticed of felt any kind of flexing whatsoever.

I do however agree a bottom support below the spider would be nice to have.

Nice. Is that threaded rod the kind that's used for lighting fixtures?

Yes the tubing is the type used for electrical fixures.

I'd also be concerned with the stress on the "spider". I think that some sort of stabilization of the bottom is really necessary, at least for coarser grinds. OTOH, the stabilization for the bottom could be done to the threaded rod, not directly to the shaft, which would
a) allow the shaft to be the bearing, which wouldn't wear like a plastic support
b) allow for some adjustment of the bottom alignment.

I really like those ideas especially (b.) I am being tempted to not leave well enough alone.

For thosw who want to mod this grinder OE are now selling there bottom bearing mod in kit form installation and adjustment vid is there as well.
http://www.orphanespresso.com/OE-Lower-Bearing-UPGRADE-KIT-for-Hario-Skerton-Kyocera-CM50-Hand-Grinders_p_4066.html

That just cost me about $16.00 USD and some change with the postage. I will see how an additional bottom bearing works out.