www.klatchroasting.com: USBC champion, voted 2009 'best micro-roaster'

Refinishing Mazzer Super Jolly to Polished Aluminum - Page 3

Postby Randy G. on Mon Jan 03, 2011 2:26 am

godlyone wrote:I don't believe this is true. The lower burr carrier is made of solid metal and the central bolt is not held on with anywhere near enough torque to cause any damage.
If Jmelan used a clothespin without it breaking do you really think any damage could result from the screwdriver method lol?


If you had looked at the website where the disassembly procedure was documented when I did you would have seen he originally used a screwdriver from above in a way that could have EASILY damaged the part in question. I have worked around enough alloy vehicle and motorcycle parts over the last 40+ years to know that. Depending on the some previous owner who may or may not have applied the correct torque or may or may not have used Loctite on a bolt is poor economics. The clothespin is a better way, but still not the best solution.
Espresso! My Espresso!
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
User avatar
Randy G.
 
Posts: 2224
Joined: May 12, 2007
Location: Yankee Hill, CA

Postby HB on Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:50 am

When it comes to espresso equipment restoration/repairs, Paul is "da man." Here's his advice from Removing Super Jolly lower burr carrier:

Paul_Pratt wrote:Jamming things in may cause damage to the shaft. An easier way is to use long bolts and tighten them in sequence. The bolts push against the main body and force the carrier off. The risk of damage is low because the amount of force required is very small.

See pics.


Image
Image

Since the above step is necessary to remove the lower burr carrier anyway, the protruding screws could be used as counterholds when removing the center bolt.
Dan Kehn
User avatar
HB
 
Posts: 13168
Joined: Apr 29, 2005
Location: Cary, NC

Postby godlyone on Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:35 pm

Dan the method you showed to remove the lower burr carrier is 100% correct.
The "how-to" website shows exactly that method.

Randy - you were talking about removing the 13mm bolt from the central shaft right?

I just re-looked at the pictures on the site and realized I did slightly change up my technique for that.
I still use a screwdriver to stop it from turning, but i insert it from the chute side of the grinder and have it wedged under the lower burr carrier. There are 3 ridges there that run the whole length and there is really no chance those can break.

I have taken apart too many of these grinders to count and honestly that bolt is never on with enough force to cause any problems whichever way you stop it from spinning. The central bolt on the bottom of the doser is another story though... :lol:
godlyone
 
Posts: 360
Joined: Feb 16, 2009
Location: New York, NY

Postby phillip canuck on Thu Jan 06, 2011 4:50 am

Thank you very much for this thread and all of the posts. I picked up a SJ cheap ($260) and was somewhat hoping that it arrived in worse painted condition that what the photos indicated. However, the black paint job is in fine condition, so I'll hold off for now on having a shiny aluminum SJ.

One question: I stripped all but the lower burr (need to make a trip to OSH for the extra long screws), and proceeded to clean just about everything with Joe Glo (including the finger guard that was so stained I thought brown was the color on the Plexiglas (or whatever it is). This cleaned everything wonderfully, but I was left with what I believe is an aluminum oxide layer on the grind sweepers. I'm none too worried about it, but is there a way to remove this?

Lastly, for those considering a SJ purchase, I just have to add my initial impression that this indeed seems like a tank of a grinder - a bit different than my wall mounted KYM that will still be used for single shots (or so I say now).

-phillip
phillip canuck
 
Posts: 224
Joined: Dec 19, 2008
Location: San Francisco

Postby JohnB. on Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:31 am

A grey 3M scuff pad should remove the coating from the sweepers.
LMWDP 267
User avatar
JohnB.
 
Posts: 1461
Joined: Feb 14, 2008
Location: northeastern Ct.

Postby godlyone on Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:20 pm

yeah the 3m scrubber or any kind of coarse sponge should work great.

also don't forget to do the tape mod since you have the sweepers out anyway!
Although I wouldn't suggest duct tape like the OP did, and they don't have to stick out nearly as much
godlyone
 
Posts: 360
Joined: Feb 16, 2009
Location: New York, NY

Postby phillip canuck on Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:00 am

Cleaning the doser is a great way to convince an owner to go doserless, but I don't want to spend as much on a factory made SS doser as I did for the whole machine. There are cheaper methods, but I have to warm-up to the pop bottle first. Any particular suggestions on the sweeper modification?

-phillip
phillip canuck
 
Posts: 224
Joined: Dec 19, 2008
Location: San Francisco

Postby godlyone on Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:46 pm

Personally I use this fisher brand tape that is used in labs to label test tubes. It sticks well and has a hard enough backing to gently sweep the doser clean.

I would say something similar to masking tape or painters tape should be good.

The original sweeper mod used velcro patches, but they're too expensive imo
godlyone
 
Posts: 360
Joined: Feb 16, 2009
Location: New York, NY

Previous

Return to Grinders