Pharos - Finally satisfied with adjustment system!!!
- rpavlis
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: 12 years ago
Some versions of the latex text processing program that I normally use instead of conventional word processors gives warnings with "badness" ratings. I noticed immediately that, to me, the part of the Pharos with the most "badness" was centred on adjustment. Many posts on HB and other places have suggested ways to reduce the "badness". I made contributions to improvement too, but some badness seemed to remain. I will describe here how to start with the original design of 633 Pharos and bring it to the present state, rather than point to several postings by me and others.
You need the following items:
(1) One piece STAINLESS STEEL threaded shaft collar 1/2"-13
(2) A spacer--either a thick 1/2" stainless steel washer or two or else one made from round bar stock on a lathe.
(3) A STAINLESS STEEL fender washer. (1 1/2" or 40mm outside diameter.)
(4) Label paper
(5) An Allen tool to remain permanently with the Pharos after this.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Remove the handle and locker from the Pharos shaft. Remove the two steel adjusting nuts. (Their being ordinary steel is a fault too, because stainless in contact with ordinary steel will tend to rust.)
Place the spacer, whether a standard thick washer or machined spacer, over the Pharos drive shaft.
Screw the threaded collar unto the shaft. Which side you want up depends on whether you be right or left handed! Screw it down until the burrs are tight together.
Take the fender washer and drill out the central hole to 1/2" if it were not that size in the first place. Using a computer printer, print a protractor on clear label stock to cover the fender washer exactly from one of the many svg format images you can find on the Internet. This MUST be the same diameter as the fender washer. (There are many programs to do this such as glabel.) Carefully put the printed label onto the fender washer. Be careful to place it in the exact centre!. Cut off any label overhang with a very sharp knife or single edge razor blade.
Screw the original lock screw device onto the Pharos shaft until it is about where it was before you started the operation. Place the fender washer over the shaft, and then put the handle back on to the shaft. When you get close to the fender washer, turn the shaft so that the slot in the threaded collar is exactly under the handle. Screw the locking device up against the fender washer and tighten it down so that the scale on the protractor 0 is pointing along the axis of the handle. Tighten it down to lock everything in place.
If one put the scale on the top of the handle it is like reading a legal document--all fine print! Furthermore, the scale is too far from the slot in the threaded collar to read accurately.
Here the print is much larger, and the fender washer is close to the threaded collar so the angle can be read with far better accuracy. (Certainly to a degree.)
Note that every time you remove the Pharos handle, you will likely have to recalibrate slightly. Be sure that the handle is exactly over the slot in the threaded collar when you make the final tightening.
This makes the original stainless tool useless. Take a piece of bar stock and drill and tap the ends and put this between the top plates. Now you have an excellent handle to counter another thing about the Pharos that many feel has a badness rating.
To adjust simply loosen the threaded collar lock screw and turn the threaded collar. Read the angle of the slit in the collar from the protractor. (If you grind things other than espresso you will want to make a mark on the threaded collar 180 degrees away from the slit to use when the slit is under the handle.)
The picture above shows my Pharos at this point. Note the fancy Allen tool I made. This is not, of course, necessary. Note also my special Pharos stopper that prevents grounds from packing during grinding so that they form an igloo over the exit port. This, in my experience, takes care of grounds removing problems too.
I also replaced the plastic spacers with aluminium ones I made on a lathe. I thought that the plastic ones would tend to creep over time. (These must be made with precision, by the way.)
To me this is the "Zero badness Pharos."
You need the following items:
(1) One piece STAINLESS STEEL threaded shaft collar 1/2"-13
(2) A spacer--either a thick 1/2" stainless steel washer or two or else one made from round bar stock on a lathe.
(3) A STAINLESS STEEL fender washer. (1 1/2" or 40mm outside diameter.)
(4) Label paper
(5) An Allen tool to remain permanently with the Pharos after this.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Remove the handle and locker from the Pharos shaft. Remove the two steel adjusting nuts. (Their being ordinary steel is a fault too, because stainless in contact with ordinary steel will tend to rust.)
Place the spacer, whether a standard thick washer or machined spacer, over the Pharos drive shaft.
Screw the threaded collar unto the shaft. Which side you want up depends on whether you be right or left handed! Screw it down until the burrs are tight together.
Take the fender washer and drill out the central hole to 1/2" if it were not that size in the first place. Using a computer printer, print a protractor on clear label stock to cover the fender washer exactly from one of the many svg format images you can find on the Internet. This MUST be the same diameter as the fender washer. (There are many programs to do this such as glabel.) Carefully put the printed label onto the fender washer. Be careful to place it in the exact centre!. Cut off any label overhang with a very sharp knife or single edge razor blade.
Screw the original lock screw device onto the Pharos shaft until it is about where it was before you started the operation. Place the fender washer over the shaft, and then put the handle back on to the shaft. When you get close to the fender washer, turn the shaft so that the slot in the threaded collar is exactly under the handle. Screw the locking device up against the fender washer and tighten it down so that the scale on the protractor 0 is pointing along the axis of the handle. Tighten it down to lock everything in place.
If one put the scale on the top of the handle it is like reading a legal document--all fine print! Furthermore, the scale is too far from the slot in the threaded collar to read accurately.
Here the print is much larger, and the fender washer is close to the threaded collar so the angle can be read with far better accuracy. (Certainly to a degree.)
Note that every time you remove the Pharos handle, you will likely have to recalibrate slightly. Be sure that the handle is exactly over the slot in the threaded collar when you make the final tightening.
This makes the original stainless tool useless. Take a piece of bar stock and drill and tap the ends and put this between the top plates. Now you have an excellent handle to counter another thing about the Pharos that many feel has a badness rating.
To adjust simply loosen the threaded collar lock screw and turn the threaded collar. Read the angle of the slit in the collar from the protractor. (If you grind things other than espresso you will want to make a mark on the threaded collar 180 degrees away from the slit to use when the slit is under the handle.)
The picture above shows my Pharos at this point. Note the fancy Allen tool I made. This is not, of course, necessary. Note also my special Pharos stopper that prevents grounds from packing during grinding so that they form an igloo over the exit port. This, in my experience, takes care of grounds removing problems too.
I also replaced the plastic spacers with aluminium ones I made on a lathe. I thought that the plastic ones would tend to creep over time. (These must be made with precision, by the way.)
To me this is the "Zero badness Pharos."
- happycat
- Posts: 1464
- Joined: 11 years ago
I've found that i rarely adjust the Pharos.... But I have other grinders for brew and travel. I might edge it tighter or looser to address espresso issues. I am curious what people need the adjustment systems for.... Are you doing multiple types of brewing?
LMWDP #603
- galumay
- Posts: 341
- Joined: 15 years ago
Good to see another solution for adjustment, I have the Voodoodaddy mods on mine and that solved the adjustment issue for me. I too rarely adjust mine, but its easy to do and also to return to original settings.
LMWDP #322 i started with nothing.........i still have most of it.
- rpavlis (original poster)
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: 12 years ago
I use a variety of coffees, and grind adjustment is important. I also do such things as have Turkish coffee from time to time. I also sometimes use Moka pots. A "right on" grind is critical, in my experience, for decent espresso. It is essential that one be able to reproduce that "right on" after using the grinder for a different coffee, or different type of brewing. This is an instant and exact method!
In humid climates or when one uses the Pharos in wet environments there is also the issue of steel against stainless steel that was used in the original system.
The cost of a stainless steel one piece collar is about $12. (I got mine from a place called Zoro tools.)
Unlike others I have never had any problems with removing ground coffee except when it packed over the exit port. I regarded shortening the main shaft as a bad idea, because it seemed to me it would make alignment more difficult for little if any improved function.
In humid climates or when one uses the Pharos in wet environments there is also the issue of steel against stainless steel that was used in the original system.
The cost of a stainless steel one piece collar is about $12. (I got mine from a place called Zoro tools.)
Unlike others I have never had any problems with removing ground coffee except when it packed over the exit port. I regarded shortening the main shaft as a bad idea, because it seemed to me it would make alignment more difficult for little if any improved function.
- rpavlis (original poster)
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: 12 years ago
I noticed that I forgot to include a picture of the parts that go on the Pharos shaft with the stainless steel protractor on a disk adjustment system:
As mentioned earlier, the brass spacer could be replaced with an appropriate stainless steel washer. The slot in the threaded collar is the pointer.
I would have preferred an anti clockwise numbered protractor going from 0 to 360, I guess I could create one with software, but this one works fine. The important thing is that this system puts the protractor directly on the SHAFT. Pointers also get in the way when loading coffee beans. This does not! It is also a direct adjustment that does not require closing the burrs with each adjustment. It is also accurate!
As mentioned earlier, the brass spacer could be replaced with an appropriate stainless steel washer. The slot in the threaded collar is the pointer.
I would have preferred an anti clockwise numbered protractor going from 0 to 360, I guess I could create one with software, but this one works fine. The important thing is that this system puts the protractor directly on the SHAFT. Pointers also get in the way when loading coffee beans. This does not! It is also a direct adjustment that does not require closing the burrs with each adjustment. It is also accurate!
- rpavlis (original poster)
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: 12 years ago
I discovered that the polyurethane coating I put over the clear printed label protractor caused its adhesive to fail. I edited the Wikipedia svga protractor so it was 360 degrees and anti clockwise using inkscape. When I replaced the original protractor with this I had problems because I had to align two things at once, and when I tightened down the original Pharos locking nut enough to lock the shaft to the handle it tended to mangle the protractor. Thus I had to get a better assembly method. The new method requires a 1/2"-13, I think they call them, stainless acorn nut, that I have pictured earlier in this thread.
1. Put the stainless steel or brass spacer on the Pharos shaft first. (Stainless washers can be used as spacers.)
2. Install the locking collar. Turn it all the way down and tight so that the burrs are brought together. Tighten the Allen or Torx screw on the collar to lock it.
3. Place the Pharos locking "nut" on the shaft and turn it most of the way down.
4. Place the protractor washer on top of the "nut"
5. Screw the handle on onto the Pharos shaft, bringing it down to where you want it. There must be enough room, however, to adjust and to insert a 22mm open end. (I think the ASA size is 7/8?) Turn the handle so that the long side of the handle is exactly above the slit in the locking collar. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
6. Put the acorn nut onto the shaft and turn down until it is against the top of the handle. With a suitably sized tool (19mm or so ASA equivalent), tighten down the acorn nut securely against the handle. You are now relying on the ACORN nut to lock the Handle. It must be locked securely or your calibrations will change. When it is locked the slit in the collar must still be exactly centred under the handle.
7. Screw the original pharos locking collar upward toward the handle. Hold the protractor so the desired alignment point is centred over the end of the handle. If a 360 degree one, it makes sense to turn it to 180 degrees. Use a 22mm open end to lock the protractor against the handle. Do not turn too tightly or it may mangle the printed label, but it must be tight enough to secure the protractor so it cannot rotate.
I find the correct espresso setting for most coffees is about 200 to 220 degrees. For Turkish it seems to need to be from 60 to 90.
1. Put the stainless steel or brass spacer on the Pharos shaft first. (Stainless washers can be used as spacers.)
2. Install the locking collar. Turn it all the way down and tight so that the burrs are brought together. Tighten the Allen or Torx screw on the collar to lock it.
3. Place the Pharos locking "nut" on the shaft and turn it most of the way down.
4. Place the protractor washer on top of the "nut"
5. Screw the handle on onto the Pharos shaft, bringing it down to where you want it. There must be enough room, however, to adjust and to insert a 22mm open end. (I think the ASA size is 7/8?) Turn the handle so that the long side of the handle is exactly above the slit in the locking collar. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
6. Put the acorn nut onto the shaft and turn down until it is against the top of the handle. With a suitably sized tool (19mm or so ASA equivalent), tighten down the acorn nut securely against the handle. You are now relying on the ACORN nut to lock the Handle. It must be locked securely or your calibrations will change. When it is locked the slit in the collar must still be exactly centred under the handle.
7. Screw the original pharos locking collar upward toward the handle. Hold the protractor so the desired alignment point is centred over the end of the handle. If a 360 degree one, it makes sense to turn it to 180 degrees. Use a 22mm open end to lock the protractor against the handle. Do not turn too tightly or it may mangle the printed label, but it must be tight enough to secure the protractor so it cannot rotate.
I find the correct espresso setting for most coffees is about 200 to 220 degrees. For Turkish it seems to need to be from 60 to 90.
- rpavlis (original poster)
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: 12 years ago
The print on the "washer protractor" described earlier in this thread was very fine and difficult to read because I could not find large enough stainless fender washers.
I ordered some, and they arrived today. (I only needed one, but had to order 10.) I used the label program glabel to print a larger protractor. (These are either 2 inch or 50 mm, I forget which.) The hole in the centre of the washer was too small, so I drilled it out to match the Pharos shaft, and put the label on the protractor. I assembled the whole thing as described earlier. (I put a star washer between the protractor and the Pharos handle now to prevent the label from being damaged when I tighten down the original pharos lock "nut".
An image of the assembled pharos top is shown below:
Much larger than this would result in difficulty reading the position of the locking collar slit. One could, of course put a very short pointer on the collar, but I do not find this necessary.
I ordered some, and they arrived today. (I only needed one, but had to order 10.) I used the label program glabel to print a larger protractor. (These are either 2 inch or 50 mm, I forget which.) The hole in the centre of the washer was too small, so I drilled it out to match the Pharos shaft, and put the label on the protractor. I assembled the whole thing as described earlier. (I put a star washer between the protractor and the Pharos handle now to prevent the label from being damaged when I tighten down the original pharos lock "nut".
An image of the assembled pharos top is shown below:
Much larger than this would result in difficulty reading the position of the locking collar slit. One could, of course put a very short pointer on the collar, but I do not find this necessary.
- kowalej
- Posts: 97
- Joined: 12 years ago
Very nice mod, I'm thinking about doing the same on my Pharos. One question though: why not mount the protractor washer on top of handle between it and the acorn nut at the top of the shaft? That way you would always have full view of the numbers.
- rpavlis (original poster)
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: 12 years ago
I have often wondered if it would not be better with the protractor on top. It would give more parallex, but might also be easier to see. I normally only use Turkish and espresso grind though.
- kowalej
- Posts: 97
- Joined: 12 years ago
Ya I think I'm going to mount mine on top and use a piece of clear acrylic to make it. Then I plan on using a collar similar to voodoodaddy's mods so that I'll have an adjustment pin sticking out that I can see from directly over top the grinder through the acrylic.