another_jim wrote:The literature reports slightly higher figures for espresso, around 25%, than the 20% for brewed. Andy says actual solubles are the same as brewing, around 20%, but that the pressure extraction adds oils and insolubles that make up the difference. I got between 17% and 23% depending on grinder, coffee, dose and basket.
I think one has to be careful to distinguish
solids yield (everything removed from the dry coffee, delivered into your cup) from
solubles yield (only the compounds that are
dissolved in your cup). With metal filtered coffee like espresso and french press, undissolved material can easily comprise 8-12%% of the total solids yield. This extra 8-12% of "stuff" undoubtedly adds to mouthfeel, but I don't think it changes the basic flavor balance (ie, sour-sweet-bitter). So if you're interested in flavor balance, filtering out the insolubles before measuring the amount of material in solution works well, in my experience.
I don't find the 25% extraction yield quoted by Illy to be credible, no matter how it's measured. That would be a terribly bitter cup. In fact, I usually find that coffee/espresso/etc gets bitter over 20% solubles yield. I taste the most sweetness around 19%. Coffees extracted at less than 18% can be OK, but they almost always lack sweetness (to my taste buds). I find these trends pretty consistent across a bunch of different brew methods, including espresso.
But espresso is a peculiar beast. Because the isolated extraction chamber allows no agitation or mixing of grounds during the brew cycle, the extraction yield range is fairly limited. It is not nearly as easy to explore the x-y "extraction space" (from higher strength brews to lower strength brews and from higher extraction yields to lower extraction yields) as with brewed coffee.
Also, since an espresso puck tends to be extracted unevenly (the top of the puck more and the bottom less), one has to be careful not to pick up too much of the bitter, overextracted flavors from the top. Someone with very sensitive taste buds, like Scott Rao for instance, likes his espresso extracted to around 18-18.5% to avoid the bitters. Me, I usually go a percent higher.
another_jim wrote:The more I do these experiments, the more skeptical I become that the best taste occurs at 20% for all coffees and brewing methods. Most of that 20% solubles are starches and other compounds with very little impact on the taste. So the overall solids yield is not, in itself, the direct cause of the taste, but an indicator of what the flavor carrying molecules are doing. There is neither any evidence or any logical warrant to assume that the relation between total solubles and flavor solubles is the same for all coffees, roasts and brewing methods.
There certainly is a wide range of coffee to explore, from very light to very dark, high grown to low grown, wet processed to dry processed, etc. But thanks to the ExtractMojo refractometer, I think evidence is rapidly mounting that a relatively narrow extraction yield range is pretty consistent in producing the most pleasing cup.