I haven't posted on here for a while as I was mainly looking at another forum. At the time when I was stuck on my disassembly this site answered some of my questions. So I thought I would give a bit back and post up the disassembly process as I no one really had any detailed instructions on how to do it.

Background

I had ordered a LM GS3 about 7 months ago and it was getting close to arriving. I wanted to try and sell my Minore (AKA Brewtus) mazzer as a combo so put off getting my Kony until the machine arrived. Anyway, I was told I was getting it just before xmas so I had arranged the Kony E. The machine got held up in customs so it wasn't coming until after xmas. Given I had a break, and I needed a new project, I thought I would repaint my new grinder.

I have detailed the process below. Sorry my camera was overseas and I ended up using my Iphone. So they are not the best pictures.

I ended up picking my paint colour from a Lamborghini website Arancio Ishtar as I thought I would stick with the Italians for colour choice. The paint shop then mixed it up for me.

The Old or I guess the New

Firstly, a few pictures of the new grinder, brand new out of the box. It actually came with that tamper and the little stand. Not sure if it is only those grinders that do not come with a tamp on the side of the doser that get these?? But I cannot see myself using them. Although the stand looks ok. Could do with some rubber contact glued to it though. I have a Bumper one so will not be using it. I sold my pullman tamper with my machine, so will be up for a new Pullman or reg barber.







Also one with the guide chamber off.

Tear Down

First step, was to remove the burr collar. These are a bit different to the flat blades and you can get your fingers in there. So there is a safety switch. There is a little plastic extension on the hopper that slots into this little slot to depress a micro switch. A trap for young players that don't like to read manuals. I was trying to run it without a hopper to test it as I didn't want to take the hopper out of the plastic. Took me a while to resort to the manual to see what the problem was.




Safety switch is in here



I then removed the safety cover and the front doser chamber, tines and switches.


The burrs comes out easily enough, socket and a wooden dowel on the ali bit below the burrs to stop the burr from turning. It is a reverse thread for those playing at home.

Getting the top reduction gear section off the grinder was easy, just the four hex screws on top and it slides off. Then another hex bolt to remove the middle cog attached to the shaft (sorry forgot to take a photo of that). This whole chamber was full of grease. I didn't get any photos as my hands were all greasy ☺


Removal of this section and the shaft had me confused for a while as I couldn't find a parts diagram. It wasn't until I completely removed the grease that I saw what I needed to do.




1) The circular rail/teeth section actually slides into the housing. You can pry it up. But it is a plastic so watch you don't damage it. I have a set of autobody trim removal pryers, they are nylon and great for this sort of job.
2) This then covers 4 PH screws which need to be removed.

3) Refer to the section below on removal of baseplate and electrics.
4) Remove the 4 screws at the bottom of the plate from the bottom of the motor. There is a bearing pressed into this plate. The shaft is then pressed into that bearing. There is another bearing at the top of the shaft, just under the plate you pull the screws out of at step 2.



5) Turn the grinder upright and take a brass drift or block of wood and give the shaft a couple of short hard taps. This will remove the top bearing from the cover (it is pressed in). Remove that cover.
6) Now you should see the offending bearing and a black plastic plate. You will need to get a micro bearing puller (I had a 4 inch but it was too big) so I convinced machinist at work he needed a micro puller for his toolbox.

7) Once the bearing is removed you have one last obstacle, the black plastic plate. The shaft has grooves machined into it. The plate is a little undersized for the plate, which is then pressed onto the shaft. You use your drift again to force the shaft through the plate. The shaft will then drop out.
I read somewhere you could get the stator out, if you heated it all up in an oven. But I thought that was a bit of overkill ☺


Picture of the Stator only

Removal of Electrical Components

In the interest of safety or more importantly litigation DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME. This should only be attempted by a qualified electrician. Note I am not a qualified electrician so the following is supplied for information purposes only.

1) Unplug the grinder
2) Check the grinder is unplugged
3) remove the 4 rubber feet
4) remove the security torx bolt
5) the plate will drop off.
6) Check the grinder is still unplugged ☺
7) I found it easiest to remove some of the cables from the connectors on the base, rather than remove everything from the base. You can work out what to remove depending on how much of a pull down you are doing.
8) I ended up cutting the 4 wires in the control box. The cable for this runs down the inside of the grinder to the base. It was all getting a bit complicated and I thought this was the easiest. I just re-soldered and heat shrinked them when I put it back together.
9) The switch simply unscrews.


The rest of it should be fairly simple. Sorry I didnt take a lot of photos of this.

Painting

I used a 2 pack as it is supposed to be harder wearing. It did give me a better finish than I had achieved with acrylics in the past. However, it is pretty nasty stuff. I have a good respirator and it was only a small piece. But I wouldn't be doing anything big with 2 pack without a booth and breathing apparatus.

I sprayed with a touchup gun I have. It was only a small piece and I only bought 250ml of paint, so I didn't want it to go everywhere.

1) As it was brand new, I was fairly happy with the paint condition. I just rough sanded it with 400 grit to get a key.
2) Primed it - next time get a tinted primer, dark grey is hard to cover with orange.
3) Applied base coat;
4) Applied more and more base coat to cover primer;
5) Applied clear coat;
6) Wet and dry sand to make up for my lack of spray painting skills;
7) Compounded it.

Putting it All back together

It was pretty much the reverse.

The only differences being the top bearing.

I pressed the bearing back into the top plate section. I just used an appropriate sized socket and tapped it in.
The black plastic bit is a little undersized to the shaft. The shaft has grooves machined in it where it contacts the plastic plate, so just push it on.
I screwed the bottom shaft plate on first.
Placed the top plate on and tapped it down until I could get the screws to bite, then tightened it up with the screws, ensuring you give it 1.4 of a turn and rotate around the screws so you pull it down evenly.

Finished Product

The grinder came up much better than I expected. I love the colour, which isnt really brought out on the attached photos. It really contrasts well with the chrome bits.

Thanks for the detailed breakdown photos. You did a great job with the re-paint. It certainly stands out from the crowd now

Seven months to get a GS/3 is crazy. Why was there such a big delay?

I am not sure. Originally they were quoting 16 weeks. You need to give a 30% deposit up front. I am not sure if it is just the Australian distributors that require this. But you never see any LMs in stock here. Then with the summer and Xmas it just dragged on. It was worth the wait though

clinto wrote:I used a 2 pack as it is supposed to be harder wearing. It did give me a better finish than I had achieved with acrylics in the past. However, it is pretty nasty stuff. I have a good respirator and it was only a small piece. But I wouldn't be doing anything big with 2 pack without a booth and breathing apparatus.

As you found out a standard paint respirator is not going to protect you when painting with 2 part urethane enamels. Along with an outside air supply you need a full tyvek suit, head sock, full face mask & nitrile gloves. The Isocyanates & solvents will pass through any exposed skin & over exposure can be deadly.