Had a bit of trouble with my LIDO.
It started with a stalled CCD, then a Moka-pot with hella mud in it. The Chemex was stalling about halfway also at a setting of OEL-2.0
When I started looking at the CCD brews, I noticed lots of longer-term floating grounds and REALLY slow percolation, and decided to try a gold-tone filter. Percolation was quick, but the resulting coffee had a ton of sludge in the bottom. Looking at the grounds, there were a lot of big particles on top. Re-filtering that cup produced a bunch of fines - and wouldn't fully percolate.
Decided to have a look at the zero, and found that at OEL-0.25, the burr would bind in one rotation position (and 180° opposite). If I put it in the free position, I could tighten it only to the zero (brass washer). I ground another 10g at OEL-1.5, and found the dreaded "boulders and dust". LOTS of dust. Like about 4g passing through a 400micron screen dust, with a healthy amount of 1mm+ particles. I concluded that my Lido had somehow become misaligned.
I took the opportunity to completely disassemble the thing and clean it.
Clue #1 to what was going on: upon starting disassembly, one of the main nuts and one of the bar nuts was basically finger tight, the other two required less than 1Nm to loosen (like breathe on the wrench and they were loose, less than 10° rotation). OrphanEspresso on youtube says to "tighten them as hard as you can", so these are undertorqued. This, BTW, was the very first time I have taken any tools to my LIDO.
I also had some issues with the "points" in the bearing plate next to the outer burr carrier wedging beans and not allowing them to progress into the burr (Colombia Excelsio Grade). I took the opportunity to knock those points back with a file while I had the thing apart.
Getting it back together wasn't too bad, aligning it was fussy but also not bad. It's now what I'd consider "super-aligned", no high spots when the burrs touch, just a constant "swish" at about 10° tighter than the brass washer. My center burr is just a bug's breath eccentric, but not worth potentially damaging the axle shaft in trying to tweak it.
Back together, realigned, re-set (zero is where the burrs JUST don't whisper, and fully tight is +0.5, so I kept the brass washer where it was, and also made sure the adjuster bar had the adjuster screw as close to centered on the burr as I could get it).
Tightened snug, rechecked the burr alignment, then cross tighten (like lug nuts on a car) about steps of 30° each nut until they all seemed to be very snug and approximately evenly torqued - I'd estimate about 10Nm or so. I could have cranked a bunch more, but it never seems to be perfectly snug - the plastic cap just seems to keep creeping. Not sure about the stretch of the long-bolts or the compression strength of the plastic column, either.
I was still at a loss as to how it got misaligned, and was cogitating on it while making a test cup of coffee. I treat the thing very nicely, never dropped it, never forced it.... until I did my usual procedure after grinding: shake to distribute all the grounds, crank any other dislodged bits, shake again, unscrew the jar and dump into my brewer, then....
...whack the side of the bottom of the grinder over the brewer with my palm to get all of the grounds off the burr. EXACTLY what you do when you are aligning it.
Cue clue #2.
The thing is sturdy, and maybe it gives you the impression it's nearly unbreakable. In hindsight, I learned a few things:
-Nuts that sandwich plastic are prone to creep and losing torque. Check them periodically. Maybe I'll replace with a Mason Jar Lid in the future.
-Try not to knock the bottom of the grinder sideways. This is exactly the motion that is used to align the burrs. If you happen to do this when the bolts are not fully torqued (or have lost torque), the grinder can be knocked out of alignment.
Hope this helps someone out there.