I've done the drop of water trick before, works like a charm most of the time. My Bodum is a little more static-producing, it takes maybe 4-5 drops to get the static down on a really sticky bean.
I'm pretty sure the nuts were tight upon receipt of my LIDO. It was only recently that I knocked mine out of alignment.
Since my LIDO is now aligned, I decided to experiment with it. The first thing is to check the torque overnight - tight.
Grab my mallet, give it a semi-mild tap on the burr carrier, and check the alignment. Oooohhh... now it's out of alignment, even though the nuts were tight. Bummer. Good news, tho: I could just adjust it back, but it goes out of alignment easier than I thought. It took a borderline sub-painful palm hit to knock it out of alignment - far more than normal but still possible without a mallet.
So, this morning, I modified the cap on my LIDO. Got some #6 washers (about 9.5mm dia), worked with a fine woodworking gouge and tapped a hole around the two main nuts (not the ones on the adjuster carrier bar). With the bar nuts tight, I removed the main nuts, pulled the little donut of plastic out (in the shape of a washer) and stuck my two washers (approximately 1mm thick) into the hole. Torqued the two main nuts.
Then, I removed the adjuster carrier bar, and the cap came off just like I wanted, while the grinder remained clamped and aligned.
Then, I drilled out the adjuster carrier bar holes in the cap, cleaned up all four holes, and put the cap back on. Then I put two washers in, installed the adjuster carrier bar, and torqued them up.
Nice feeling, it clamps down with a clean torque, doesn't feel like it's continually creeping. The cap is a smidge over 1mm thick, but it's smushed around where the nuts used to clamp.
Then, I removed the two main nuts, and installed #8 washers on top of the #6 to capture the cap.
This mod does two things:
-It puts basically metal between the nut and the burr carrier. Stable clampload when torqued, little opportunity for creep or clamp loss.
-It allows me to remove the cap without ever losing alignment (by alternating which pair I keep clamped). I can remove the #8 washers, tighten, then remove the carrier bar, and the cap comes off.
It takes about 3X as much force to misalign it now (but yes, it can still be misaligned with a VERY sharp tap or two). I expect (tho I won't be doing it) that it would stand up fine to hand tapping, but I think I'll leave it be and just use a combo of water drops and vertical-only taps. (I was unable to misalign it with palm hits, but I think I'll still refrain from doing so.)
I did have to move my zero point - it changed by 0.25 turns because the washers under the carrier bar are slightly thinner than the plastic. t-point is still another 0.5 turns tighter than zero.
I couldn't see a way to get a mason jar lid to work without a secondary seal or a metal plate adapter - A standard lid is recessed, so if you clamp it to the burr carrier without a washer, it will just distort badly. If you clamp it with washers, then there is a space between the burr carrier and the cap for grounds to get stuck.
I suppose some day I'll probably move to a metal lid of some sort, but this stabilizes the grinder for now.
(BTW, 2.0 is decent for a Moka Pot, 2.25 is about 18.5% extraction, 2.0 is about 20%, and 1.75 is right around 22% - at least that's what I've seen with a few quick pots).