FotonDrv wrote:Thanks guys, and the bonus was that it worked as a cup stand to compensate for that long Londinium drop/gap from the Group to the drip tray grate.

We all hate you...but in a GOOD way!
I can't even use a can opener without messing up, and you produce beautiful things masterfully. Kudos to the grinder as well. Apparently a real achievement.

The grinder is still producing excellent gounds and I find I am using it more than I thought I would.

Still not played with the speed control, but rest assured I will.

I reshaped the knob on the hopper lid so it was easier to clean, felt better in the hand and I think it actually looks better.

Wow. Impressive.

FotonDrv wrote:Unusual question, but 385g of 6061-T11 Alu. It is the lightest material I turn, except some woods.

And in case you were wondering what the Catch Can weighed it weighs 343g

AssafL wrote:Wow. Impressive.

Thanks, it is just freehand work with the lathe using the various crank wheels and then files and then abrasives and finally polishing compounds.

I do 3D printing and just bought a tiny mill to play with the concept of machining a bit.

Talk about a learning curve - flying objects, broken bits, and endless math trying to find the center of things. Oh and the price of bits and tools .

What I now know that I don't know makes your work that much more impressive.

Ha! It is different than woordworking and waaaay different than a kick wheel throwing clay I have a friend who was a commercial machinist that made some very high tech stuff, like rocket nozzles for current production missiles and some other classified things that made me wonder what else could be stuffed into a backpack??!! He machined by hand and used no CNC equipment although his facility was converting to CNC. I have never done CNC work and would defer to my nephew who works with 5 axis CNC programming and machining. So for the meantime I am just happy to tinker around with the lathes and wish I had a couple of Milling Machines, one micro and one maxi, and then the learning curve for use of them would begin

Sound and feel play an important part of the equation when attacking metal.

All things machine/wood shop equipment is a little like buying a purebred dog: The initial investment/cost of entry pales in comparison to ongoing costs. Of course relative to lathes & mills the tool bits, collets, chucks, hold down fixtures, etc. can be expensive. But that's why we use the term "hobby" so we don't keep receipts/tally the real cost

I just find that making useful stuff is fun. Modified a heat sink the other day. Turned out butt uglydue to bit chatter, uneven speed, cambered mounting, etc. the piece actually vibrated madly. Then read I should have lubricated the bit....

So I decided to rationalize the outcome - that it sort of resembels haute horligerie: sort of mad perlage and skewed cotes de Geneva lines made by a wanting watchmaker. Of course it is nothing of the sort - they use finishing compounds, etc.

Dan is correct, it is all the accessories you need plus the skill (which is time and $$).

As for lubricant, here is one you might not have heard of if you do not want to use liquid (messy) coolants. Beeswax.... It helps the bits glide and when it gets hot the wax flows toward the heat, much like soldering. I don't always use it but keep some just in case I don't want the big usual mess. It is a trick I learned working in a machine shop back in the 1960's while using a 10 bit drillpress in aluminum stock. The machine was a big monster but it could bore all 10 holes and countersink them at the same time.