This is a modest drawing that I have made for the purpose of helping the others to understand some of the reasoning above. I hope it be of help.

orwa wrote:I believe it's pretty clear who's the one who's "speculating". And by the way, I wasn't dressed up like you when I wrote that and I was indeed wearing my pajamas .

True dat! My speculation spurred me to ask the questions.
I'm glad I asked and your answers make very good sense to me.

orwa wrote:According to my personal experience, the bitterness persists.

This is another matter altogether....
Sometimes I'm bitter too but I try to recover quickly

Orwa, after reading all that you have posted I still don't buy your theories. I do appreciate all the info you took the time to post and agree that the machined area with the edges might pose a problem with burr seating. BUT the stationary burr can be shimmed or that area could be machined somewhat, even with something like a Dremel with small grinding wheel, just enough to allow the burr to sit perfectly flat.

Another thing you speak of is the role the auger plays. Best I can tell all it does is help feed the beans faster. I surely can't see how it could be responsible for crushing the beans, especially since beans come in all shapes and sizes. The only useful role it plays is feeding the beans to vertically mounted burrs.

This mod can be perfected, just takes a little time and ingenuity. I'm about to do it on two Pro Line grinders and will report my findings. Later!

Well I have a few things to report on the burr swap. The fact is the round channel the stationary burr sits in is slightly smaller than the Mini burr, maybe .5mm at most. Thought of a few different approaches to this and broke out my Dremel with a proper bit and slowly ground this channel a bit larger, staying in as perfect a circular motion as possible. Did this little by little until the burr almost dropped in. Then finished it up with 150 then 400 grit sandpaper by hand. Now the burr lays perfectly in the channel and there is no play. Found the perfect stainless screws with concave heads that sit well below the burr edges. Easiest to modify was the spinning burr carrier, basically by first measuring with a digital caliper to center the Mini burr, then a final inspection by good old eyeballing. Drilled and tapped all holes and have achieved proper alignment. After assembly there is indeed a bit of space (maybe 1/8") between the burrs and I will first shim with cardboard to get an idea of proper thickness needed. Then will finalize it all by making a shim out of plastic of some type. Maybe even sheet aluminum. Something fairly easy to work with that will not crush under stress.

So far I see nothing that I'd consider a big deal for this modification. There was a comment made about grounds being trapped behind the burrs. The Mini burrs are dished out on the backside, whereas the PL burrs are solid. A quick and effective fix for this might be to put something on the backside of the burrs, maybe foam or something similar. Something that would be easy to work with, not permanent and will prevent grounds from building up anywhere. A good thick foam pad that would be held in place by the pressure of the burrs and simply fill the space.

As far as the inside diameter of the Mini burr not allowing the auger to feed the burrs quick enough....... I can't see any issue this could create, but if it does pose a problem I'm sure I can come up with a fix for that as well. I'll keep you guys posted. Later!

Sorry to raise this thread from the dead once more, but I recently purchased a set of Mazzer mini replacement burrs (Part number 0182D) with the intention of performing this modification. It seems like the newer models of the Kitchenaid grinders don't have the same burr dimensions as the Mazzer. Perhaps I purchased the wrong burr set? Can someone confirm this? My grinder's model number is: KPCG100OB1.

I attempted to seat the burrs on the grinding mechanism as an eyeball test and I noticed that the holes do not line up at all.

-jduv

Ah I see now. Thanks for your reply. It does indeed look like the burrs are the same dimension, just the holes don't line up. I'm going to try and come up with an autocad template for more precise tapping of the holes on both the stationary and rotating grinder surfaces--but before I do that has anyone tried using the Mazzer burr at the rotating position and the stock KA at the stationary position? This would allow me to avoid routing out the stationary burr rest--which makes me a little nervous. I realize you couldn't allow that burr combination to touch, but really I'm only interested in press pot grinds for now.

I bought this grinder with high hopes that it would indeed satisfy my good press pot coffee addition, but unfortunately the little $99 Capresso that gave out before it has a more consistent and less bitter brew. There's simply too much dust and boulders with the KA and I was hoping that a machined cutting burr set instead of the stock crushing set would help a little. I'm fairly new to "coffee snobbery" and so far I love it .