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Mazzer Major help with power conversion

Postby leozava on Sat Apr 16, 2011 6:36 pm

I knw this has been touched upon but there are no straight answers that i could find. I found a mazzer major for a REALLY good price and its in great shape but its a 380 3phase I know it can be converted but some part # or links would be great! thanks

Also, whats everyones opinion on this grinder
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Postby leozava on Sat Apr 16, 2011 9:21 pm

hope this isnt a silly question but how IMPOSSIBLE would it be to replace the 83mm flat burrs of the major with the conical robur blades?? assuming that the 3 screw holes line up??
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Postby signal15 on Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:05 am

The motor would have to be replaced, or at a minimum it would have to be rewound by a competent electrician. Call around to some alternator/electric motor shops to see if they can do it. You'll probably also need to add a starter capacitor.

Your other option is to buy a phase converter. Phase converters typically don't work well with electric motors, but when I say that, I'm usually talking about large 5HP+ air compressor motors. They might work fine with the comparatively small motor in the Mazzer.
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Postby Ben Z. on Sun Apr 17, 2011 1:35 pm

You should be able to pick up a VFD for $100. You will then have variable speed. I really am not sure on the burrs, but I have to imagine it won't work.
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Postby craigcharity on Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:30 pm

As far as I know the mazzer motors are heat shrunk in there( I think it is the right terminology). I tried to get my SJ one out and it was impossible so I called a friend who is pretty clued up and he said they heat the chassis and drop the motor in. I might be wrong tho, anyone got one out before?
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Postby signal15 on Sun Apr 17, 2011 8:04 pm

I haven't seen the guts of one, but I have to assume that even if it's dumped in there while the case is hot, you should still be able to pull the guts out of it by taking the bolts out of the bottom end. Aren't these things supposed to be serviceable?

What is essentially a press fit doesn't seem like something they'd be likely to do on a device where precision actually matters.
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Postby HB on Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:07 pm

craigcharity wrote:I tried to get my SJ one out and it was impossible so I called a friend who is pretty clued up and he said they heat the chassis and drop the motor in. I might be wrong tho, anyone got one out before?

I've never tried it, but a few others discussed this option in Mazzer super jolly - what are signs of motor/bearings on the way out?
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Postby Bane on Mon Apr 18, 2011 3:00 am

leozava wrote:hope this isnt a silly question but how IMPOSSIBLE would it be to replace the 83mm flat burrs of the major with the conical robur blades?? assuming that the 3 screw holes line up??


as far as i know the adjustment collar is the same size for major and robur.
the burr carriers would be different totally different, since the lower conus isn't mounted by screws and the upper one is much thicker than a typical flat burr.

i would worry about the size of the grinding chamber. if it is the same as for the robur, you might be able to fit the conicals in by replacing both carriers, but i wouldn't bet on it since the robur is way bigger...


the question is, if that would be sensible... with the robur you got a slow turning (500rpm) 900W motor, the major got 650W 1400 rpm. don't think i would make sense to adapt the robur conicals to that one....

the major nearly spins thrice as fast, which would increase the output tremendously.
well if it works anyway... i think the lower torque of the major motor might be the bigger problem...
Jazz is not dead. It just smells funny - Frank Zappa
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Postby ira on Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:47 pm

I believe that the Robur has a gearbox under the lower burr to step down the motor speed to the 400 RPM so the differences are greater than you might think.

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Postby godlyone on Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:41 pm

craigcharity wrote:As far as I know the mazzer motors are heat shrunk in there( I think it is the right terminology). I tried to get my SJ one out and it was impossible so I called a friend who is pretty clued up and he said they heat the chassis and drop the motor in. I might be wrong tho, anyone got one out before?


I changed the bearings on an old mazzer mini I had a few months ago

To get the motor out - of course a press is preferable, but I used the old school method: Hammer!


Remove all of the screws holding the motor in place from the bottom of the grinder
Remove everything from the top INCLUDING the lower burr carrier
unscrew that metal plate that protects the bearings under the lower burr carrier.

Now comes the scary part (first double check that all screws are removed)

Take a piece of wood and put it on the rotor shaft, whack wood with a decent sized hammer
(you really have to go to town on it)

The whole motor assembly will drop down


However, if you need to replace the whole motor or get it rewound, I don't really see it being an economical venture - might as well spend an extra week checking on ebay and get a good deal there
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