Bluecold wrote:No other old commercial grinder has issues with newfangled light roast for espresso. Not even the spanish discount brands.

Well but this one does so the comparison does not make any sense.

I've been on holiday the last few days so appreciate the replies.

Phoned the motor repair place today and the guy said coffee grinders were a bit different to what they usually work on but he'll happily take a look at it on Tuesday. If it's a relatively cheap fix I'll go for it, otherwise probably just have to live with it it.

I forgot to ask the motor shop before they closed for the weekend - can I take just the motor or will they need the whole grinder.?

Should be just the motor.

Great, thanks - the motor I can manage on my bike - the whole grinder probably not...

It's a public holiday here today but surprisingly the motor repair shops were open so i took the motor along.

The first one couldn't power it up due to the pin thing on the end but they checked the resistances (fine) and visually inspected the windings (fine) and the insulation (fine) and said there was no evidence it had been damaged in any way.

The second kept it for a bit to test it and said everything was as it should be. This guy thought the motor should be well up to grinding coffee as it kicked a good bit on startup and was working well. He asked if the cap had been replaced then said if it wasn't the cap and motor was running fine maybe there was an issue with the electronics - maybe the thermal protection kicking in too early but he did say this was speculation.

During service on Saturday it jammed on the first shot, but worked fine after that with only one new burr in.

Is there any chance that during the disassembly to paint it in its new scheme some contact points were painted over, reducing the conductivity on electrical connections? Or possibly some terminals are loose? I know the connector to the motor is a plug that snaps, but I've never taken mine apart to really look at all the connections, so my question(s) may be somewhat stupid. Grasping at straws now since the motor seems to check out, and you've replaced the capacitor.

All that ls left is low line voltage. Undersized power cord is another possibility.

uscfroadie wrote:Is there any chance that during the disassembly to paint it in its new scheme some contact points were painted over, reducing the conductivity on electrical connections? Or possibly some terminals are loose? I know the connector to the motor is a plug that snaps, but I've never taken mine apart to really look at all the connections, so my question(s) may be somewhat stupid. Grasping at straws now since the motor seems to check out, and you've replaced the capacitor.

What contact points? The earths on the side panels? They did get painted, but i scraped (most) of the paint off them. I'd go back over them if that could be an issue? Not sure i'd be comfortable taking the plug from the motor apart - doesn't look like it's supposed to be dis-assembled.

OldNuc wrote:All that ls left is low line voltage. Undersized power cord is another possibility.

It does it both in my house and using the power supply at my stall. What do you mean by undersized power cord? It's the same on that was on before. The only thing that's changed is the new burrs really. Do you think the board could be an issue or is that a red herring?

Any foreign material on the grounds could be causing the problem. Undersized means the wire size is too small. Likewise the line supply voltage. This type of motor just stalls out on low voltage with any load on it at all.