Lyn Weber Workshops EG-1 User Experiences - Page 6
- Chert
- Posts: 3537
- Joined: 16 years ago
So the button on the base of the grinder is such a soft switch? Do you think the "foot pedal control port" just allows a place to plug a separate soft switch?AssafL wrote:
Hence, just like on a desktop computer, always use the soft switch and not the Power Supply switch.
LMWDP #198
- AssafL
- Posts: 2588
- Joined: 14 years ago
Get a GX16 plug and hook it to the billy pedal after chopping off the mains plug and rewriting it to short when activated. Connect the plug to the foot pedal socket on the EG1.Chert wrote:All I see about it in the website is the image below.
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Or take a sawing machine pedal and replace the plug. Just verify it a momentary action switch and not a speed regulating pedal. Perhaps an alternating action switch ( step once for on step again for off) is even nicer. Step to turn on, and step again when finished. Like some guitar or midi pedals.
That seems to be how the system was designed.
Scraping away (slowly) at the tyranny of biases and dogma.
- AssafL
- Posts: 2588
- Joined: 14 years ago
Well, if you look at the movies you'll see that the power supply shows the number 0 when the switch is off. It isn't really fully powered down. Sure it isn't creating the rotating field, etc. but it is still powered.Chert wrote:So the button on the base of the grinder is such a soft switch? Do you think the "foot pedal control port" just allows a place to plug a separate soft switch?
So yes, the button at the base of the grinder is a soft switch. Probably wired in parallel to the pedal connector (but through the umbilical connector).
BTW - If well designed, the displayed 0 shown would be powered by a very low loss auxiliary power supply to save energy.
Scraping away (slowly) at the tyranny of biases and dogma.
- Chert
- Posts: 3537
- Joined: 16 years ago
Nice to know. It would be really cool to see the schematic as open source. I won't make a pedal until someone like yourself who knows more than I verifies a proper design.
No pedal yet, but I am making a hopper and for that I need a bit more information. What is the height at the top of the 120 mm OD olympic torch basin? And what is the inner diameter at the top of that bowl shaped beans receptacle? My materials are ready to go, but further work needs more info.
No pedal yet, but I am making a hopper and for that I need a bit more information. What is the height at the top of the 120 mm OD olympic torch basin? And what is the inner diameter at the top of that bowl shaped beans receptacle? My materials are ready to go, but further work needs more info.
LMWDP #198
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- Posts: 27
- Joined: 11 years ago
A nice timber plug for the hole would be good to keep bugs out
- Chert
- Posts: 3537
- Joined: 16 years ago
As I assume that 8 mm surface is flat, the piece of wood - cut out to the size of the funnel OD mouth on top with a flat 13 mm ring surface beneath to interface the Olympic torch bowl, and with a hole for the beans to fall through - may be all the support needed for the funnel. That is, rather than my original intent of a pair of wooden supports on the side. Especially if a grind speed setting keeps the vibration from bouncing the funnel. And I can produce in the process a little cover to keep bugs and worse, metal bits, from ever falling in. Once a metal disc fell somehow in my Baratza Vario. That was bad enough. I don't want any metallic bugs falling into this thing.
LMWDP #198
- AssafL
- Posts: 2588
- Joined: 14 years ago
I think someone posted above the plug that needs to wired. He got that from LWW. I'd probably buy the connector, and try a momentary switch and an on-off switch to understand what the functionality I'd want - and then buy a pedal that has the same functionality (momentary or push on push off). Pretty simple...Chert wrote:Nice to know. It would be really cool to see the schematic as open source. I won't make a pedal until someone like yourself who knows more than I verifies a proper design.
Scraping away (slowly) at the tyranny of biases and dogma.
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- Posts: 27
- Joined: 11 years ago
Yep, that'll work
Chert wrote:As I assume that 8 mm surface is flat, the piece of wood - cut out to the size of the funnel OD mouth on top with a flat 13 mm ring surface beneath to interface the Olympic torch bowl, and with a hole for the beans to fall through - may be all the support needed for the funnel. That is, rather than my original intent of a pair of wooden supports on the side. Especially if a grind speed setting keeps the vibration from bouncing the funnel. And I can produce in the process a little cover to keep bugs and worse, metal bits, from ever falling in. Once a metal disc fell somehow in my Baratza Vario. That was bad enough. I don't want any metallic bugs falling into this thing.