Less than 0.1g without RDT, but you get a fine mist stuck to the bottom of the exit shoot
You can grind straight into the basket, (just clamp it up high) with no mess, but it's slightly off centre
No clumping, until you shake or WDT, then you can get some removing the shaker or funnel
You don't have to use WDT, I just find it's better
Haven't decided on funnel vs shaker, as the shaker does a better job of distribution, but I find I need to manually level afterwards, which is fiddle. With the funnel I use a whisk then one bang to level and tamp

The camera makes the noise worse than it is, but it is there, and due to the paper wipers
I guess you could not use them, or trim them slightly, or use something g like felt?

HBchris wrote:I Have some questions, hoping someone who has can shed some light on:

without RDT, how much retention on average would you say there is? How much with on average with RDT?

Without any sort of funnel etc, if you just ground straight into the portafilter would there it be very neat with a nice center mound. Or would there be stray grounds and come out a bit wild...as its meant to have some sort of funnel.

Any clumping with lighter roasts?

Anyone try to pull any shots without WDT, with just tapping to level, stockfelth move etc (with medium - lighter roasts), or without WDT with any of these: OCD / dozer / blind shaker ?

do you experience a high pitch noise at the end of your grinding? There was a report earlier that was due the burrs needing to be aligned, but i came across some instagram videos, that seem to have a similar high pitch type sound at the end of grinding. Perhaps it could be amplification with the video?

Hi, Chris. One of video is made by me.

The sounds is come from retention brush(?) in outside of a burr.

Chert wrote:I took my question to the LynWeber Customer Support. Craig informed me that the plug is GX-2 aviation plug in case I wish to devise a foot controller. I have poked around very briefly and it appears that guitar and tig welder pedals have such plugs.

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This connector should make it easy to do a current based grind controller like I made for the Versalab (at Automating the Versalab M3). Very simple and cheap way to automate the workflow.

If you just want an on/off foot pedal is there any reason that something like the Billy Pedal wouldn't work?
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy- ... oot+switch

You simply plug the outlet end of your power cord into the pedal & plug the pedal cord into the outlet. I've been using one with my K10 since 2010.

The EG-1 seems to use an electronic switch so I would be very careful..

Theoretically - you may be able to short the foot switch connector and then use a mains switch like the Billy Switch - it may or may not work, and depending on the care used during design - it may be long or short lived depending on how well they implemented a soft start for the DC charge caps (for the power supply). In a nutshell you may burn out the electronics or a fuse during one of the starts...

If I were to use a Billy Switch I'd rewire it to short a 2 wire cable and fit a footswitch connector.... (used just as the designer had in mind)

The Billy Pedal is just breaking the 120v feed to the box. Why would that cause a problem? The grinder does plug into a 120v outlet doesn't it?

My experience with DC motors powered by AC/DC converters is that they tend to take some time to get started after being supplied with AC, and there is usually some lag to losing DC power after the AC is shut as well. I would guess that trying to rig the EG-1 (or the monolith flat) up to start and stop via any kind of switch on the AC side is not a good idea. A very bad user experience if not also bad for the grinder motor/power supply.

JohnB. wrote:The Billy Pedal is just breaking the 120v feed to the box. Why would that cause a problem? The grinder does plug into a 120v outlet doesn't it?

Well, the circuit is basically an inverter that creates the rotating field in the permanent magnet (DC) without commutator motor (hence the brushless). Usually these work very similar to switch mode power supplies.

So you take mains, rectify it to D.C. (That is why you'll see the 22-100uF 400v cap there), chop it up with a high 10's of kHZ, with a MOSFET (or a strange BJT module for larger supplies), and then convert it using a small transformer (the higher frequency means smaller losses and a much smaller transformer).

That rectification, if not managed well using a "soft start" circuit(in my Bryston amp they use a washing machine motor soft start chip) can cause immense inrush currents that can over time destroy the components around it. Fuses, rectifiers, the cap itself, the FET, etc.

Some of the phone chargers and laptop chargers spark and rumble like crazy when you hook them up. All the energy being sucked up by the rectification capacitor. I have a carton full of dead SMPS chargers that fried themselves (usually when being connected to mains). Apple's chargers are horrible.

Hence, just like on a desktop computer, always use the soft switch and not the Power Supply switch.

Edit 1: the inrush current depends on when exactly do the prongs make contact with mains. If it is at a zero crossing (phase voltage = 0 ) the cap will fill up during the AC cycle and current will be okay. If however, you are at full 110v (since 110v is RMS The instantaneous voltage will be 110*Sqrt(2)) - remember the cap is a short. So you will be short circuiting 150v at a very high power source (mains). Hence the destructive energy.

Edit 2: soft starts are about limiting inrush current. So placing a resistor in series, a zero cross detector and switch, even an NTC will all work (to some extent). In some cases they'll have a small SMPS used just to soft-start a larger SMPS. Due to the high-energy and current, they are also rather expensive. Hence the are usually omitted for small consumer goods.