Really nice pictures Eugene! Loved the joke and B|J goat pic hehe

After a while the handle is not an issue but it would be nice if OE offered an aftermarket handle for some

Are folks finding that, as their Lido 2s break in, that your grind settings shift coarser? What I mean is that whereas before I was using about 1+3 for Nel pourover, now I have to go to 1 or so to get the same grind size - 1+3 is now too coarse. Does that make sense?

Yep, perfectly normal. That's why OE used a sharpie to mark "0" since it was going to shift eventually. 3 marks is my experience as to the shift. If you like, take some rubbing alcohol to remove the old mark, and pick a new place to make the mark with a sharpie. I haven't bothered since I like to start from zero each time.

I'm back to drinking coffee after a break and loving my lido 2 still. Funny how everyone complains about the handle when it's pretty easy for me.. but I haven't owned a grinder with the knock style wooden knob

anyway I made a couple of helpful videos for the lido 2.. don't laugh I really messed up the first one.. it was kind of a train wreck

How to oil the knob to get rid of squeak http://youtu.be/r0U4-1G_CfA
how to adjust grind http://youtu.be/iFcAc8V8fyw

Coming up on 2 months use and still enjoying using the Lido 2 every day.

Just thought I would share a method I discovered of cleaning in between the plastic hopper and metal parts which only takes a minute or two and doesn't require disassembly of the burrs.

1. Unscrew and remove handle.
2. On the outside of the grinder, place the nozzle of a rocket air blower at the seam of the plastic hopper and the metal burr carrier, give it a few blows. It's a tight fit, but there is a gap and you will find that most of the chaff and grounds stuck in there will then blow into the interior of the hopper.
3. Place the nozzle of the blower inside the hopper from the top (where the handle was). Angle it towards the sides and blow some more. This will blow out any remaining grounds stuck in between the plastic and metal.
4. Finally, pull the inner burr out through the bottom, and give both burrs a clean with the included brush.
5. Put the inner burr back in and replace the handle.

I find doing this I can get the grinder to look like the day I got it in about 5 minutes. Using RDT will reduce the amount of grounds you will have to clean out in the first place.

Thanks, I've been using my rocket blower, but haven't tried to find the seam to get all the chaff and debris out. Sounds like a good tip.

kidleethal wrote:2. On the outside of the grinder, place the nozzle of a rocket air blower at the seam of the plastic hopper and the metal burr carrier, give it a few blows. It's a tight fit, but there is a gap and you will find that most of the chaff and grounds stuck in there will then blow into the interior of the hopper.

Yup, this usually works pretty well. I mentioned the idea a while back in the beta thread (see here). A month ago, there was one stubborn bit of chaff that I couldn't remove from the inside OR by blowing this way, so I unscrewed two of the four screws attaching the bottom of the hopper to the outer burr carrier, pried the hopper up slightly, and THEN blew into the seam using the rocket; problem solved!

i. In regards to knob stiffness..

It has been nearly two months since I applied a small amount of coconut oil to the knob with a toothpick. Within the first week after applying the coconut oil the knob still showed some relative stiffness (and maybe some squeakiness too), but fortunately over time the coconut oil worked it's magic and the knob loosened up considerably. I am able to grind my coffee with no frustrations or annoyances (except some static).

ii. In regards to grinding form..

I have found it easiest to grind by sitting in a chair, resting the bottom of the grinder in my lap, holding the top of the chamber with one hand and the knob with the other, and grinding with sort of a "bicycle" pedal motion. It was slightly strenuous at first, so I made adjustments with the way I placed and angled the grinder. The muscle memory has built in so now it is a breeze to grind my coffee. I found it challenging to grind beans fluidly with the "from the hip" and "rest it on the counter" forms that are proposed in Doug and Barb's youtube videos, so that is why I have experimented grinding from a seated posture.

What are people's experience with Turkish grinding with the Lido 2?

I have been making a lot of Turkish coffee over the last few weeks. I've tried with the Lido 2 down to 6 notches from zero, but find I still get a lot of grounds in the foam. I'm a little hesitant to go any finer because I'm (overly) anxious of possibly wearing down the burrs.

The grind with Turkish is so fine and the burrs so close, that I find there isn't a lot of resistance to turning as the amount of beans between the burrs at any one time is small, but the number of total turns required is high. As such, I've actually found it easier to grind Turkish with the Porlex because it is much smaller and lighter, and because it's cheap I'm not worried about having the burrs very close together.

My experiences with Turkish are the same. The lido 2 makes a delicious cup but it takes too long (disclaimer: I had the setting too fine (imagine that) and didn't bother doing it again). When I want Turkish I use my Sözen. Actually with the burrs rubbing like mad with the Sözen it still doesn't go as fine as the lido 2, which I'm sure accounts for lido2 tasting better. I'm a big fan of having grinders specializes for difference settings.

As this is a lido2 thread, let me say that I love my Lideux! It happily grinds for my pour overs, French press, and Aeropress