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La Cimbali Junior - Grind Adjustment and Cleaning Doser

Postby wgbennett83 on Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:30 pm

Hello,

I recently purchased a used La Cimbali Junior Grinder off of eBay. I received it very dirty, so I immediately cleaned it using the Cleaning Cimbali Jr. grinder thread as a guide. However, I have two questions that this thread or any other source of information doesn't answer.

First, how exactly do I adjust the "grind adjustment ring"? Here's what I did, and it may or may not be correct. I screwed in the burr carrier until both the bottom and top burrs touched. Now, from what I've read, this should the zero point. The problem, however, is that the grind adjustment ring and the burr carrier screw holes must align. In order to align the holes, I had to back the top burr carrier off until I could place the ring at zero. I then screwed it in. Using this method, with the grind adjustment ring at 0.5, a 17g dosed double pulls at about 25 second. I notice most people say a normal grind adjustment is usually between 3 and 4. I'm thinking my grind adjustment is at 0.5 either just because I need new burrs (which I probably do) or because I put it on wrong. Any thoughts?

Second, I would like to clean the doser out really good. Does anyone know how it comes apart?
Thanks for all responses!

Regards,
Will Bennett
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Postby HB on Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:22 pm

wgbennett83 wrote:I notice most people say a normal grind adjustment is usually between 3 and 4. I'm thinking my grind adjustment is at 0.5 either just because I need new burrs (which I probably do) or because I put it on wrong. Any thoughts?

Sounds like you did it correctly. The reference numbers members toss around are usually relative to the zero point. So while your dial may indicate 3 with a zero point of -1 and mine says 5 with a zero point of 1, we agree to speak of the setting as "4" to avoid confusion.

wgbennett83 wrote:Second, I would like to clean the doser out really good. Does anyone know how it comes apart?

No, but Dave's Reviving an Abused Cimbali Max may be helpful.
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Postby wgbennett83 on Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:01 am

Dan,

Sounds like you did it correctly. The reference numbers members toss around are usually relative to the zero point. So while your dial may indicate 3 with a zero point of -1 and mine says 5 with a zero point of 1, we agree to speak of the setting as "4" to avoid confusion.


That makes sense. It seems that the grinder could have been manufactured so that the zero point would always fall on zero, but I guess that it isn't really important.

No, but Dave's Reviving an Abused Cimbali Max may be helpful.

Very helpful; I'll email Dave.

I've ran a lot of coffee through the grinder today trying to get it dialed in. It seems that it definitely needs new burrs since small adjustments yield large differences in shot time. Is that it a good indication?

Also, I've found out how dependent my method is on the WDT. When I dosed directly in the basket, my shots looked horrible through a naked portafilter. My shots have always looked close to perfect using my Le'Lit PL53 and the WDT. I guess that's something to practice!

Thanks for the reply Dan.

Regards,
Will Bennett
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Postby HB on Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:39 am

wgbennett83 wrote:I've ran a lot of coffee through the grinder today trying to get it dialed in. It seems that it definitely needs new burrs since small adjustments yield large differences in shot time. Is that it a good indication?

When in doubt, replace the burrs; they're not that expensive.

The leading indicator of dull burrs is the grind setting drifting finer and finer for the same pour speed. Bitter and lackluster espresso, presumably from a poor distribution of coarse/fine grounds, are other signs. See How to know grinder burrs are worn out? for other suggestions.
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Postby cannonfodder on Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:52 am

New burrs on a used grinder is always a prudent fit. As to the doser, it is a pain, a real big pain. You essentially have to dismantle the entire machine to take the doser apart for a cleaning. Nice thing about the Cimbali's, the entire shell comes off with 5 or 6 screws to expose the entire inner workings. The doser however has quite a few more small screws, trim pieces, springs, etc. It has been a few years and I cannot quote from memory how it comes apart. I would have to partially disassemble my unit to remember how it all came apart.

I would just start by taking the bean hopper off (3 screws), the shell so you can get any wandering grinds out of the chassis. You have already been into the burrs so the grind chamber should be good and clean now. I believe you can unscrew the star doser adjustment without taking the doser off. That will lift out and you can reach inside and wipe it out with a damp and slightly soapy towel. Then wipe it out a couple more times with a damp towel to get all the soap residue out then put it back together. There is not much more to gain by fully disassembling the doser.

The grind index ring almost never lines up 0 with true zero. I believe all 3 of my Cimbali's are off by about half a number either way. That index is more important for overall adjustment. If you go from espresso to drip, say 5 to 16 on my Max, you just have to remember to turn it back down to 5, purge out the burrs/doser/chute by grinding a shot worth of coffee through it and then go back to pulling shots. I find it very accurate and usually only requires one or two small adjustments to dial the shots back in after the big swing.
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Postby wgbennett83 on Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:52 pm

I went ahead and ordered new burrs from Chris Coffee along with their Black Pearl espresso blend. I've been trying a lot of professionally roasted blends lately instead of just relying on my home roasting skills which are somewhat lacking. The best I've had so far has been Klatch's Belle.

As I said earlier, I'm moving to the Junior from the Le'Lit PL53. I've noticed two things different in the grinds: First, the Le'Lit produces a much fluffier grind. As a result, more coffee fits in the basket coming from the Junior. For example, 17g might overflow a double basket coming from the PL53, where as it goes right below the rim with the Junior. Second, the Le'Lit produces a grind with virtually no clumping. With the Junior there is a bunch of small clumps. Using the WDT, I guess this isn't very important, but with other dosing methods it might be bad?

I have one more question. On 1st-line's website they say, "it is very important to only change grind settings on Cimbali coffee grinders when the unit is powered 'on' and the burrs are in motion." If the hopper is full, and you change the grind setting with the unit powered on, it seems you would waste a lot of coffee. Is this how everyone does it? I usually grind just enough for each shot, but the "popcorn effect" seems to be more prominent on the Junior than the PL53. I don't know how much this is effecting the shot quality however. 1st-line seems to suggest that all burr grinders should be changed only with the burrs in motion, but that it is even more important with the Cimbali grinders.

Regards,
Will Bennett
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Postby HB on Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:19 pm

wgbennett83 wrote:On 1st-line's website they say, "it is very important to only change grind settings on Cimbali coffee grinders when the unit is powered 'on' and the burrs are in motion." If the hopper is full, and you change the grind setting with the unit powered on, it seems you would waste a lot of coffee. Is this how everyone does it?

My short(er) answer from MACAP M4 overheats/shuts off running empty:

HB wrote:Some vendor/manufacturer advise that you always run the grinder during an adjustment. Their concern is binding the motor by forcing the burrs together when the grinding chamber is full. Rather than explain the reasons behind their recommendations, they offer blanket statements, with the caveat that they'll void your warranty if you don't do as prescribed. I appreciate their predicament with a public that unknowingly does damage to new equipment and blames the reseller. However, to be clear:

  • Grinder motors generate a lot of heat; they'll all overheat eventually, even if run empty
  • Running the motor to the point that the thermal protector cuts off power is a bad thing
  • How long it will take to overheat depends on the grinder. The owners manual may state the max on/min off time, it may not. I advise no more than 30 seconds on and a minimum of one minute off
  • There is no risk of binding the burrs if the adjustment is coarser
  • There is no risk of binding the burrs if the grind chamber is truly empty.

To answer your question more directly, you should empty the hopper and the grinding chamber if turning finer, unless of course you're willing to waste a bit of coffee by running it while adjusting. It is not necessary to empty the hopper and grinding chamber or run the motor if turning coarser. Very small adjustments either way can be done without emptying the hopper or grinding chamber, but there is a slight risk of the burrs binding and stalling the motor. Powering the motor without it spinning is a bad thing.

See Empty bean hopper before changing grind settings? for the longer answer.
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Postby malachi on Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:08 pm

wgbennett83 wrote:As I said earlier, I'm moving to the Junior from the Le'Lit PL53. I've noticed two things different in the grinds: First, the Le'Lit produces a much fluffier grind. As a result, more coffee fits in the basket coming from the Junior. For example, 17g might overflow a double basket coming from the PL53, where as it goes right below the rim with the Junior. Second, the Le'Lit produces a grind with virtually no clumping. With the Junior there is a bunch of small clumps. Using the WDT, I guess this isn't very important, but with other dosing methods it might be bad?


I'd probably suggest holding off on these concerns until you have new burrs in there.
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Postby Ken Fox on Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:29 pm

wgbennett83 wrote:As I said earlier, I'm moving to the Junior from the Le'Lit PL53. I've noticed two things different in the grinds: First, the Le'Lit produces a much fluffier grind. As a result, more coffee fits in the basket coming from the Junior. For example, 17g might overflow a double basket coming from the PL53, where as it goes right below the rim with the Junior. Second, the Le'Lit produces a grind with virtually no clumping. With the Junior there is a bunch of small clumps. Using the WDT, I guess this isn't very important, but with other dosing methods it might be bad?

I have one more question. On 1st-line's website they say, "it is very important to only change grind settings on Cimbali coffee grinders when the unit is powered 'on' and the burrs are in motion." If the hopper is full, and you change the grind setting with the unit powered on, it seems you would waste a lot of coffee. Is this how everyone does it? I usually grind just enough for each shot, but the "popcorn effect" seems to be more prominent on the Junior than the PL53. I don't know how much this is effecting the shot quality however. 1st-line seems to suggest that all burr grinders should be changed only with the burrs in motion, but that it is even more important with the Cimbali grinders.

Regards,
Will Bennett


The only thing I have to add to what Dan wrote is that the Cimbali Junior (and its automatic cousin, the Cadet), as well as the Cimbali Max, are all horrid grinders if your intention is to grind per shot leaving the hopper essentially empty. You will get lots of popcorning with any of these grinders and the shot quality WILL suffer. All of these grinders will operate at their best only if you leave enough coffee in the grinder hopper to weight down the beans that are being ground at any point in time. I never intentionally operate my Maxs (I no longer use my Junior/Cadet grinders) with less than ~75g. of coffee in the hopper. When I am going to change coffees, I either end up tossing 20 or 30g of grinds, or I use them in a cappuccino or other milk drink where the reduced shot quality will be less noticeable.

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Postby wgbennett83 on Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:04 pm

To answer your question more directly, you should empty the hopper and the grinding chamber if turning finer, unless of course you're willing to waste a bit of coffee by running it while adjusting. It is not necessary to empty the hopper and grinding chamber or run the motor if turning coarser. Very small adjustments either way can be done without emptying the hopper or grinding chamber, but there is a slight risk of the burrs binding and stalling the motor. Powering the motor without it spinning is a bad thing.

That answers my question completely. Thank you! One other question just came up. There is a counter on the front of the doser that gets incremented each time the doser is used. What exactly is the purpose of it? Maybe someway to measure the life of the burrs (Each dose should equal an approximate amount of coffee, so a certain number of doses equals the life of the burrs?) Also, do you know how to reset it?

The only thing I have to add to what Dan wrote is that the Cimbali Junior (and its automatic cousin, the Cadet), as well as the Cimbali Max, are all horrid grinders if your intention is to grind per shot leaving the hopper essentially empty. You will get lots of popcorning with any of these grinders and the shot quality WILL suffer.


Thanks for the warning. I'll make sure to keep the hopper full. I'll have to figure out a new way to measure dose, by grinding time maybe? What is the difference between an automatic, like the Cadet, and a manual grinder?
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