Hi

I am looking to hook up one of these: http://www.espressoparts.com/Delta_Timer into my grinder.


This is the inside of my grinder. It's a 220v that I run through a step up. Total watts on the grinder is 650w. But I needed a 3000w Step up to make it run..




The black wire in the above photo is the main power line. It connects to two switches. One is a push button, the other a dial. The grinder has an auto doser that I never use.





Above is another photo with both switches.

My thinking is to disconnect the wires going to the push button switch and hook it up to the CTA delta. But I have a few questions:

1) Given the above, will the Delta CTA support my grinder ?
2) How is the CTA Delta actually powered ? Does it just have a SSR that feeds off the power coming from the input ?
3) What do the connectors at the back for the Delta CTA actually look like ?

Thanks !

J

Hi,

I've made a little progress.

Before connecting to an actual grinder, I decided to simplify things a little. I have a light socket with two wires, a switch with two wires and a plug that leads to two bare wires.




The wires (mains) coming from the wall socket go into the timer at 4 and 5. This lights up the timer and it can function normally.



Then I hooked up my switch to 6 and 7. With this done I can get the timer to start and reset by switching the switch.



What is left, is where to plug in my light bulb!

Here's the user manual.

http://db.tt/aCzijXG


Any ideas ?

J

Looking at the diagrams on page 6, it appears that the relay for output 1 is on pins 10 & 15.

I'd check first with an ohmmeter that these pins short when you expect, while the timer is running, and open when it is finished.

Then wire neutral to one side of the light bulb (load) and wire hot to pin 10, and pin 15 to the other side of the light bulb.

If you don't know hot from neutral, the you ought to be having an electrician do this for you. Line voltage can kill you if you mess up, or at the least wreck your day. Ymmv, I am not an electrician, if you take free advice on the Internet you get what you pay for yadda yadda yadda.

If you survive, let us know how it worked.

I checked with a buddy of mine who is an electrician.. You are right, 10 and 15 are the magic numbers.

The mistake in my thinking is in not realizing that that I needed a second power source. He says I could run a jumper from 4 to 10.. But that's a little iffy. I can't test as I don't have another plug. I'll have to head to the hardware store tomorrow.

So one power source goes to 4 and 5 to power up the timer.

Then plug one wire of the light bulb to 10.

The with a second power source plug in one wire to 15 and the other to the wire going straight to the light bulb.

I'll test it tomorrow. If this works, then connecting this to the grinder will be easy. Just swap out the wires from the light bulb to the two wires going into the grinder from the wall.

I'll post it all with photos so someone else can try.

J

Hi,

I have it working.



The timer has different output modes. I had to put it into "Son" mode (via the menu). When I flip the switch to "on" the timer starts and the light bulb lights. When it gets to 0, it shuts the bulb off.

Which means, hooking this up to the grinder will be very easy. I merely have to unhook one of the mains wires and plug it into 15 and then make sure all the switches on the grinder are on.

I'll do that this weekend..

J

I'm curious... is this a CT4000A or a CT4100A? They make two separate models that both say CT4 ont he front and look identical. Both are designed for 100-240 VAC and I am still trying to figure out the difference (I'm looking at a source other than EPNW.)

This would be the CTA4100A

http://cgi.ebay.ca/TIMER-COUNTER-TACHOMETER-DELTA-CTA4100A-100-240-VAC-/280440011131

...is where I got mine.

J

The difference is whether output 2 is relay or transistor.

4100 is relay
4000 is transistor.

Output 1 appears to have both transistor and relay in both models.

Hi

The project is complete !

That was way more work then I thought. I got a project box and a large button and some fork connectors. Cutting the hole for the display was tricky (as you can see by my shoddy job) but I managed to get it all to fit.



I merely unhooked one wire coming out of the first switch and connected that to 10 on the timer and then created a new wire that went back into the grinder and connected that to 15 to complete the switch. Which means if I ever decide to toss this or sell the grinder, it's a 5 minute job to put it back to the way it was.




Works fantastically too.

Thanks for the help. I hope this is useful to others.

J

I looked at this and thought yeah, but then you have old beans in the grinder, - saw that you have only a few, and thought to mention that the gram weight of the grind you get will be very much dependent on the weight of the beans in the hopper - lots of beans = uniform, few beans = non-uniform. Just my 2 cents. And I could be wrong.