See Removing Mazzer lower burr carrier.

paul_pratt wrote:Jamming things in may cause damage to the shaft. An easier way is to use long bolts and tighten them in sequence. The bolts push against the main body and force the carrier off. The risk of damage is low because the amount of force required is very small.

See pics.

That's all there is to remove on the top, once the three screws and the bearing retaining plate ( which is just a thin piece of steel ) are removed, the rotor needs to come out through the bottom. After you remove the bottom cover you will see a plate that holds the the rotor in place, this is held in place with four screws and has the capacitor mounted to it, also some or the wires from the stator are routed through it. Make a diagram of the wires, remove them from the connector, capacitor, and switch. Remove the capacitor and mounting bracket, and with a brass punch or a piece of wood, tap the rotor out from the top, it comes out rather easy. The shaft you see in your picture is the top of the rotor. Put a rag or towel under the bottom to cushion the bottom plate when the rotor comes out. After it comes out there is small black plug in the middle of the lower plate, remove this and get a 8mm bolt ( it is the same size bolt that holds the lower burr carrier on, but you will need a bolt with a longer thread ) thread it into the bottom plate, and this will press the plate off of the rotor. The upper bearing will stay in the housing, you can just punch this out. But when you put the new one in make sure you press it in on the outer part of the new bearing so you don't damage it. The lower bearing will stay on the rotor and if you don't have the proper tooling, you may want to use a quality machine shop service to do this part for you. I'll try to post some pics of my disassembly if you think that would help.

mikekarr wrote:So, this doesn't really seem to just be a thin steel plate, though I did manage to break a bolt off in it trying to push it up. I'm sure I can get the bolt out, but I still can't figure out how to get to the bearing.

It is just a plate as shown here and driving a bolt in there will accomplish nothing. In order to remove it try this. A similar discussion can be found here.

Have you removed the bottom plate, switch etc. already? Make sure you take plenty of pictures and number the wires (I used masking tape and a pen). If you don't feel confident or don't have the right tools to remove the bearings (like me), only remove the stator rotor part maz 113 (edit:thanks John) and have someone else change the bearings for you.

Better to spend some money than to break stuff.

Edit: you probably have to get that broken off bolt out first.

Mike,
From here remove the bottom plate, then take pics of the wires and mark them to remember where they go. (Making a diagram helps)
And as I said before remove the capacitor, and wires, then remove the screws that hold in the rotor bottom plate. From here you can get a 8 mm bolt and press the lower plate from the rotor then tap out the rotor from the top of the grinder. The top bearing will remain in the grinder housing, the lower bearing will stay on the rotor. The screw holes that you broke the bolt in are for the bearing retainer plate, trust me, there is a thin stainless plate there in your picture. Try a pick or small screwdriver to remove it, then you will see the top bearing. You will not be able to remove the top bearing until you remove the rotor, it has to be pushed from the bottom after you remove the rotor. I have not been able to get on the forum much of late, if you email at zdunk31@comcast.net I will try to send pics of my disassembly.

Leo