This seemed like the place to ask the experts, Does anyone know where I could purchase a copper replacement crank arm for a DeVe hand mill? Any help would be appreciated.

maxbmello wrote:What type of lubricant should I use for shaft/upper bearing on one of these hand grinders? I've tried olive oil in the past, but it has seemingly gummed up and my PeDe is not turning as smooth as it used to. Obviously would need to be food grade, but not sure exactly what to use.

You can use mineral oil if you have that sitting around the house. I've also used a white food-safe bearing grease for this purpose, but that was a special purchase at a restaurant supply store. You can find mineral oil at any pharmacy or home improvement store.

Max, the disassembly you are looking for is on page 81.

I'll look for mineral oil or the specialty white lithium grease as I have neither. Thanks for the suggestions!

I saw the photos of the disassembly, but did not describe in detail on how to go through it. I seem to recall having to adjust all the way course to begin, and then remove certain parts, etc. However one of my issues seems to be that mines is actually a 558, and does not have the 4 external mounting screws on the top plate, making removal much more difficult. There are 2 flathead screws on the interior of the hopper, and the one opposite of the loading door looks particularly tricky to get to.

As always, your expertise and help is always appreciated!

I have no experience with these models...

but on some of the grinders I've restored, the first step was to pop/pry off the bottom plate. With that piece of wood removed, I could access hidden fasteners related to the top plate assembly.

Just an idea...

One other thing to be aware of: By the mid- to late-50s, which is likely when this mill was built, many of the fasteners that look like small slotted screws are actually small nails. (If these nails are loose, you'll need to reinforce the nail hole before reassembling the grinder. I use toothpick plugs and glue. After the glue sets up, I drill a new pilot hole for the nail into the toothpick plug.) The "false screws" have shallow slots; true screws have deeper slots. You will be able to tell the difference between them.

This seemed like the place to ask the experts, Does anyone know where I could purchase a copper replacement crank arm for a DeVe hand mill? Any help would be appreciated.

The only hope would seem to be to find an old parts mill, or fabricate your own. It would be simple to make one that would work, but more difficult to match the original.

Eastsideloco wrote:I have no experience with these models...

One other thing to be aware of: By the mid- to late-50s, which is likely when this mill was built, many of the fasteners that look like small slotted screws are actually small nails. (If these nails are loose, you'll need to reinforce the nail hole before reassembling the grinder. I use toothpick plugs and glue. After the glue sets up, I drill a new pilot hole for the nail into the toothpick plug.) The "false screws" have shallow slots; true screws have deeper slots. You will be able to tell the difference between them.

Sounds like it might get a little difficult. I know you have plenty of experience restoring old hand grinders, and this would be my first. A little nervous I would mess it up, and it is in fairly good condition so I would hate to do that. Would like more practice on ones in worse shape.

For now I will try just lubricating the shaft with the grinder still intact and hope that solves my problems!

I have a 558 in front of me right now, and looking inside the box up at the burr set, I don't see any way to access fasteners from below. This model is more like the small KyMs with the metal 'front door' rather than the burly KyMs where the bottom slab unscrews to grant access to fasteners. Like the smaller KyMs, it does appear that one would need to access the two screws that are inside the bean hopper - and you are correct, that one at the back looks like a bear to get to. If you could find a precision screwdriver set, such as the ones used to do repairs on laptops, those often come with an extension rod that might give you enough reach to get in there and unscrew it. You would want to first remove the back adjustment dial via the two tiny screws that hold the bezel-type thing in place. The adjustment assembly then just unscrews out from that point.

As David notes, there is always the possibility that what appear to be screws are in fact nails! You could always try the front one first to see if it is a screw or a nail before tackling the back one.

I've restored a KyM "spanker" with a metal door, but it had an external screw that released the hopper assembly somehow:



I recall there being some small screws as well. But it was all pretty intuitive.

Does the PeDe 558 have a metal nameplate? If so, maybe there is a screw hidden behind there? As shown here:

http://www.orphanespresso.com/vintage-h ... 546-1.html

It's a bit harrowing, but I've had good luck removing and re-installing these metal nameplates during restoration projects without damaging anything.

Sorry I don't have one of these around the house. I wish I did. It's a stylish little grinder, for sure.

Thank you, I'll keep hunting.
Are they usually interchangeable between brands, or do I need to find another DeVe?