Grindmaster 250 burr removal

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cannonfodder
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#1: Post by cannonfodder »

Anyone ever remove the burrs from a grindmaster 250? Looks like they should just pull forward but that carrier does not want to give.
Dave Stephens

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Randy G.
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#2: Post by Randy G. »

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yakster
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#3: Post by yakster »

You need to remove the shear cap and the shear disk under it before trying to pull the burrs. Here's the manual: http://gmcw.com/docs/GR-373-05%20115_250%20Manual.pdf

You may find when you pull the cap that the shear disk has been replaced with a shear pin in a hole drilled through the shaft.
-Chris

LMWDP # 272

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cannonfodder (original poster)
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#4: Post by cannonfodder (original poster) »

The photo was before I took off the cap. I have the manual but thanks for the link. It still has the sheer disk in it which was torqued slightly. I removed that but according to the instructions the assembly should just pull off of the motor shaft to get access to the burr set but it does not want to move forward. It is probably corroded on the drive shaft. Any other ideas how to get it pried out?
Dave Stephens

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cannonfodder (original poster)
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#5: Post by cannonfodder (original poster) »

Got it. Had to use some Aero Kroil and a lever (screwdriver) and got it to start moving. Then a little out, tap it back in, out a little more, tap it back in. Eventually it let go and pulled off the drive shaft.
Dave Stephens

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Randy G.
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#6: Post by Randy G. »

cannonfodder wrote: It still has the sheer disk in it which was torqued slightly.
The driven burr was spot welded onto the motor shaft on mine! I ground that off and replaced it with a piece of aluminum. I have heard that many of these are found with a penny in there.
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cannonfodder (original poster)
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#7: Post by cannonfodder (original poster) »

This one was in decent shape. I do not think it saw a lot of use but had even less maintenance. The pot mettle base has a lot of corrosion so I think it was stored somewhere damp. The sheer disk was the original and the spare it ships with was still in the zip top bag taped to the inside of the machine. Make date is 99 on it. It could still use new burrs as a matter of cleaning up and restoring. The hoppers were clean and void of oil buildup the inside of the machine was clean. Got it apart, cleaned the drive shaft with some steel wool and took the sheer plug to the wire wheel to clean it up. Gave everything a good scrub in some JoeGlo, a dab of taylor HP lube on the shaft and burr adjustment screw and it is as good as new. Even re used the sheep disk that was in the machine so I still have the spare. Grinds a 120gram dose in about 10 seconds.
Dave Stephens

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Randy G.
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#8: Post by Randy G. »

Dave,
Last I head Grindmaster still has burrsets for these grinders.
Whenever I roast a full batch for friends who do not have grinders I still use my 500 to grind the full batch.
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cannonfodder (original poster)
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#9: Post by cannonfodder (original poster) »

They do. You can get a set for around $140. Changing burrs is easy. Hard part is cleaning it all up. My test and adjustment grinds still came out nice.
Dave Stephens

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Jofari
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#10: Post by Jofari »

Out of curiosity, how do these Grindmaster grinders perform? I seem to hear lots about Bunn bulk grinders but not so much about Grindmaster. I'm primarily interested in their performance for drip settings and coarser.

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