Thanks for the reply. It makes more sense to me now. I will hopefully remove the finger guard this weekend.

Also, isn't there supposed to be a knob/screw on the extension on the side of the collar that is used to hold down the hopper (similar to the one on top)? Mine doesn't have one, but it looks like it has a black plug instead. Has the screw for the hopper been eliminated?

I do notice that the screw protrudes inside the collar and makes it difficult to put the hopper in with out forcing it. It would probably slide right in, if it was adjustable.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob_McBob wrote:I'd buy a few pounds of cheap crap coffee from the supermarket and just run it through. Avoid really oily "espresso roast" beans.

Thanks, that what I plan on doing, especially since I saw a few strands of metal shavings near the top of the burrs. It looked like hair, but when I removed them, I realized it was metal. It makes me hesitant to start making espresso right away.

Mine has a set screw that I elected not to use. Metal screw putting pressure on acrylic is a recipe for a crack.

cruzmisl wrote:Mine has a set screw that I elected not to use. Metal screw putting pressure on acrylic is a recipe for a crack.

Where was your set screw in the packaging?

During the first ~5 pounds, I noticed that the grind settings deviated quite often. But nowadays I change is maybe once every 3 days, and even when I do, it is a small change. So for new users, keep this in mind before passing full judgment on the beast.

Or you can sacrifice about 5 pounds of supermarket beans.

I personally used to use a Gralab 450 photo timer, but now I operate it without a hopper, dosing per shot. It takes me about 2 minutes total to load, grind, dose, clean chute and doser, and tamp, for one double.

My K10 WBC showed up a little while ago More UPS screw-ups, but at least it's here now. Man, this thing is a beast. The original hopper (I got a mini as well) is almost as big as my M4's main body!

I'm a little surprised they removed the threaded cap from the end of the grind adjuster. It now just has a hole to stick a screwdriver through to adjust the hopper screw. Is there any reason to keep any pressure on the hopper? I don't even use the screws with my M4's hopper, since it just sits in place by itself. I assume the Compak hopper can't go deep enough inside the body to contact the burrs or anything.

Before I mess something up, there isn't anything I need to do to change the grind adjuster tension, is there? It is really tight, and I don't want to force it before checking.

jsdp wrote:Where was your set screw in the packaging?

No, it was already installed

Bob_McBob wrote:Before I mess something up, there isn't anything I need to do to change the grind adjuster tension, is there? It is really tight, and I don't want to force it before checking.

Figured this out myself, I was just turning it the wrong way

My grinder looks like this when it's running. I'm not sure if it's just the fastener at the top or something. Is this normal, or should I be concerned?

I've run through a few pounds of some old crap I had in the cupboard. I'm amazed by how nicely the doser distributes grinds, and by how fluffy and clump-free they are. Kudos to Compak. I was also pleasantly surprised when I figured out the intent of the spare grind adjustment faceplate. The cutout is smaller, so if you take off the finger guard/automatic doser remnant, it covers up the missing space and makes it look right. Very nice.

I was also pleasantly surprised when I figured out the intent of the spare grind adjustment faceplate. The cutout is smaller, so if you take off the finger guard/automatic doser remnant, it covers up the missing space and makes it look right. Very nice.

What is this you are talking about? Any pictures?

As you can see, I removed the finger guard assembly. The original faceplate with the larger cutout is sitting on top for reference. The spare one that came with the machine is installed.