HB wrote:Sorry, I should have said around 1/8th of a revolution of the collar above the zero point, i.e., approximately the same as 10 minutes on the face of a clock. It works well enough as a starting point for Macaps and Mazzers.

Dan, cool!

I ran a couple of more small batches at the 7.4 number in the center of the hopper that was referred to before (7.0-7.5). The grind(s) came out good, a tad coarse but definitely usable. I'll try this on the Cremina tomorrow and see how the machine works with the grind.

I would imagine I'll be dialing it slightly finer from day to day to fine the optimum grind (Black Cat) for the Cremina.

Thanks again!

Well... looks like I have a learning curve to 'master' for the proper grind.

I took last evening's final test batch's coffee and loaded the portafilter this morning, tamped (I think too hard) and the result was that I received no flow from the Cremina, no matter how hard I pulled. I was totally bewildered.

I must have ground the coffee in the Macap way too fine and tamped too hard.

Cleaned the Cremina and portafilter and ground another small batch of Black cat, this time backing off the Macap a one full number to the eight setting. This was approximately 1.5 numbers above my zero point.

The Cremina was slow to pour on the first lever pass but nevertheless to my 'relief' the espresso began to slowly pour, approx forty seconds. On the second lever pull, the espresso flowed more freely, about twenty seconds for the second lever pull.

The resulting espresso was exceptionally smooth.

I'm coming from a Krups electric grinder after all these years with the Cremina and the grinds from the Macap are deceivingly more finer that I ever imagined.

I guess that I have to get both my grinding and tamping of the finer grinds down a lot better and tweak the process.

Last night, I had the grind way too fine and the result was a blocked portafilter.

Does this sound about right from the users of the Cremina and a Macap or other burr grinder?

If someone wants to comment, feel free. My learning curve is open for business!

The grinder is very, very cool! I had some friends come over during the day at different times so I had the opportunity to make some espresso and lattes.

The fine tuning of the Macap MC4 along with the Cremina is going well!

While I'm at the beginning of this experience of grinder/machine combo, I'm excited about the learning process and especially the end result.

... thread merged with similar topic by moderator...


I finallly made the decision to upgrade my espresso gear. For years I have used a Starbucks Barista (without the pressure portafilter) & a Starbucks Solis grinder. I gave in to the upgrade bug. I have a used Giotto classic HX on order from an auction. I just received a new Macap M4 Stepless Grinder from ChrisCoffeee today and am finding it difficult to understand. As I have read in the archives, there is no mark to let you know the grind setting. How is this calibrated? I read that when the 7 setting is in the front of the machine, this may be the starting point to adjust grind. I have to zero the machine. What number should be in the front before I start the zeroing process? The one thing I am worried about is the wormgear. It is extremely difficult to turn. I read that this can be done with the right or left hand. I need both hands and it is still very hard to turn! I bruised my thumbs from using the worm gear!!! I don't want to turn the machine on and cause damage to the burrs or motor. I am wondering if there is a problem with this particular unit.

1. Is the worm gear normally that hard to turn on these machines?

2. What number should be in the front to safely start the zeroing process

3. There was an odd screw that had to be placed on its' own on the RT front of the hopper. I could not figure out what this was for?

This has been a great site with so much useful information. Thanks to all for any suggestions.

Kevin

(Kevin, since your questions were along the same lines as this existing thread, I've taken the liberty of merging yours into it.)

1. No, if the chamber is empty, the worm drive should advance the carrier easily. You should not turn the worm drive with the motor off. The picture below may help make this point clearer:



This is actually the stepped Macap M4, but the black ring is attached the same - by three small screws. After stuffing a paper towel in the grinder's throat, I removed the three small screws and the ring. The burr carrier then turned freely (note: don't turn on the motor without the safety screw / ring attached; they assure that the top burr carrier doesn't spin suddenly when the motor engages).

2. The "zero" on the dial may line up with the zero point, but it probably won't. I subsequently can't say what number is "safe" to begin with, though it's safe to assume the burrs will not be in firm contact as-shipped. When in doubt, move the setting coarser before starting the motor and then go back towards finer (towards smaller numbers = finer, towards larger numbers = coarser).

3. I think you're referring to the hopper retainer screw that goes through a slotted hole in the hopper bottom into the carrier. Or maybe the safety screw (seen it cutoff in the picture above near the bottom). If not, a picture would help.

Dan,

Thanks for the information. I started to look at the unit closely tonight. I think this one has a defect. The worm gear is not mounted straight. I believe the gear is cutting into the plastc sprocket ring. I wanted to move the mount for the worm gear but it is held in place by 2 allen head screws. Access to the screws is mostly blocked by the turn knobs. Perhaps these could be removed, but I cannot ascertain whether they are glued on ....for example. I am probably going to have to contact Chris Coffee tomorrow for their suggestions.

The small screw I was referred to is on the front of the doser. It is located to the RT of the tamper as you face the unit. It came in a separate bag. I cannot for the life of me determine what it does nor why they would not ship the unit with the screw in place. The picture below has an arrow pointing to the screw.



Thank you for taking the time to answer this newbie's questions.

Kevin

FertilityDoc wrote:The small screw I was referred to is on the front of the doser. It is located to the RT of the tamper as you face the unit.

The doser has equally-spaced three holes on the front of it; you have the choice of using two for mounting the tamper appendage front-and-center or off to the left. I think the extra screw is for covering up the third hole.

I believe you are correct Dan, my Mini and Cimbali are the same, three screws. The Plasti-tamp was the first thing then came off, shortly followed by the annoying doser finger guard. Guess the legal department thought that people would stick their fingers into at 1600 RPM spinning 64mm blade for some reason.

I took my Cimbali apart, adjusted the burrs to zero then put the reference number ring back on with the 0 in the proper location, or very close to it.


Edit... the Cimbali only has two not three screws as I posted earlier.

I finally got the grinder working today. The worm gear was set too close to the toothed black ring grind adjustment. I do suspect it was a factory problem. The worm gear was installed on an angle. It was not loose and I don't suspect shipping damage. It was screwed down tightly. Someone was sloppy. It does make me wonder why there is not better quality control on such an expensive grinder. There was an inspector signature with the unit. I doubt it was checked so closely.

The worm gear is held in place by two hex screws. I could not access the hex screws without removing the worm gear knobs. Jason at Chris Coffee was helpful. I was afraid to try to remove these being I did not know how they were attached. They told me to go ahead. It was a delicate process. It did chip the plastic a little. At least the worm gear is in the back of the machine and it is not noticeable.

I know this grinder has good reviews here. I do worry about the some of the molded plastic pieces and the fact they could wear with time. Also the lid on the doser is an unacceptable fit. It is definitely going to rattle when the grinder is used. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the function of the grinder is better than its initial presentation. I won't know till Tuesday when I receive my Giotto Classic.

As far as the screw on the front.....Duhhhh..... I should have figured that out. You're right Dan. It is clearly to allow the tamper to be mounted in front as opposed to the side. I have a good tamper and I probably should remove it. I suspect it will just get in the way.

Thanks to all of you for your expertise. I hope to get back to you with an updated report on the setup when I have more experience with it.

Kevin

Instructions=a total joke

Grinder was set at (#5 on dial facing forward/over doser)out of the box
Instructions that came with grinder wasn't even for stepless model(so no tips on how to dial in)

Put in beans & hit the power button....motor spinning but no grinds coming out into doser!
I thought the reason for this was that maybe the burrs were too far apart (no trouble shooting page in manual)

So I dialed down (counter clockwise makes grinds finer)to #2 facing front...no motor or spinning sound /like grinder wouldn't turn on.
Thought I shorted it out.

So I decided to turn clockwise(coarser grind) all the way & start from scratch (must have turned the stepless knob at least 50 times)

I stopped turning before the top part disengaged(I don't know how many more turns it would have taken to disengage)

Tried the power button again...Thick chunks poured into the doser

Started dialing down(counter clockwise/finer) & experimenting with old beans

Finally found an espresso size grind at about the #7 on the dial facing forward(#7 right over center of doser)

I guess the out of box #5 facing forward setting had the burrs too close together for any coffee to come out even though motor was spinning.
Then when I put it down to #2 thinking the burrs were too far apart at #5, I probably had the burrs pressing against one another resulting in no motor spinning at all (I hope I didn't damage anything).

This is my first Doser grinder & I have to say it's a lot messier that a doserless.

Can anyone tell me the advantages of a doser for home use, other than making multiple coffee's?

Also if anyone reading this has the same grinder,

What is the use of the little top cage with about 4 bars on it underneath the cover of the doser?(if anything it gets in the way of my chopstick removing remaining grinds in the shoot.

Well if anyone is getting this grinder, I hope this helps & makes things a little less complicated.

scott