Rappy:

Take the jar off and set grinder on counter with nothing in it. Back lock ring off so the large ring will turn freely and handle spins freely. Loosen slightly the lower screws, about 1/2 turn. Now slowly rotate the handle in the normal direction while everything is still on the counter. If handle binds at any time in a complete rotation push on the plastic hoper until does not. Rotate 360 to verify it is turning free. Tighten 1 division and repeat the turn and push routine until you reach the point where you can not make any more improvement. You should be maybe 4-6 divisions or closer to the black mark. If so the while carefully checking for completely free rotation tighten the base 4 screws. This can take some time. once the lower 4 are tight loosen the 4 top screws and repeat the 1 complete turn and tighten the lower ring routine. Tighten the top 4 screws. Now lock lower ring and run a few junk beans through the grinder to oil the burrs. You will have to open the burrs several steps to get anything out of the grinder at this point. Once the beans are through it while holding the grinder with one hand in the air lift up on the handle by grasping at the top of the grinder and not the knob and turn it, is the burrs drag more or less constant as you lift and turn? Should be and if you feel no drag the return the lower ring to the setting you found when adjusting the screws and repeat. If all this works then just use it for several weeks and then you can recheck.

My suspicion is that grinder did not have a smooth ride to your house.

As a data point my grinder will not produce any output of anything when it is set to 8 divisions open from the original black mark, this is the grinders effective zero point. One division from there in the coarse direction will produce a very fine dust with much cranking.

I have no idea what I'm looking at, but here's a photo of some Ethiopian beans put onto paper towel and shaken around a bit to show any chaff or dust or whatever. You all probably know better than I do what you're looking for. This is with the grinder set at 20 clicks out.

Big size here:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/156 ... 2e30_k.jpg

Looks like coffee to me.

I would say that looks normal. Next time I spill some on the counter I should get a picture before I sweep it onto the floor.

OldNuc wrote:Rappy:

Take the jar off and set grinder on counter with nothing in it.....

Thanks for the realignment tips. However my problem is one of the four screws holding the hopper to the burr housing has threaded or rounded. The tool that was included with the grinder just freely spins in the socket of that screw. There is no way to get it loose. It wasn't a tight fit to start with, but at least it allowed me to turn it at an angle. Now it is stuck.

That is a problem that needs to get fixed. They are really not designed to be severely tightened and that is probably your entire problem with alignment. The lower end sits on the burr carrier which the top surface of is above where the hoper would rest. If 1 side is over tightened then the hoper tilts and when the opposite side is tightened then that first screw will not come out until the other side is loosened. Once rounded out removal is a trick and the other 3 screws have to be backed out to remove as much tension as possible. I would contact OE.

Not having logged on for a couple of days, I am kind of surprised to see the turn this thread has taken.
It seems that not everyone is happy with the Lido 2. I am sure there has been some valid criticism.

I haven't used my Lido 2 much recently. On average perhaps three times a week. I continue to mainly make espresso with my dedicated espresso grinder. However, whenever I take the Lido 2 for a spin, preparing a Chemex, it pleases me. My Chemex brews have very even flow and don't get bogged down. This is something I cannot achieve with much more expensive grinders like the Super Jolly or the HG one. They just won't do for that method of brewing. I tried it over and over again, always had a puddle of bogged-down water remaining in the filter.

I haven't analyzed the particles nor have I taken the Lido 2 apart. I had the grind setting slip twice but then no more.

I guess my success is a combination of proper (preexisting) alignment, luck, and occasional use. Perhaps some aplomb and skill, too. I am not sure if I would like the Lido 2's ergonomics as much if I had to grind a few hundred grams of coffee every day. But aside from that, this device delivers a great tasting cup. Or, at least, it is capable of doing so. And it is certainly a great emergency espresso backup grinder, too.

Previous inquiring emails of a general nature to Orphan Espresso went unanswered, and I have certainly seen great responsiveness from HG one (basically a one person outfit, isn't it?). I don't see the need to glorify the Orphans nor do I want to criticize them for their email availability. And I suppose that is not the purpose of this thread. Or shouldn't become the purpose. All I can say is they've made a product that works and produces great coffee. A product that is original, creative and not run of the mill. I am hesitant to call it boutique as that smacks of luxury item. But to the commoners of coffee (those that drink swill everyday in lieu of fine coffee), the Lido 2 is probably both too pricey and boutiquish (and perhaps even useless). To me, it is a necessity. I was also curious about the Hausgrind but didn't pursue that any further (not available then, it seemed). For my purposes the Lido 2 is/was the only real possible choice short of a plasticky Baratza grinder with a somewhat questionable lifespan.

I hope that "rappy" can work out the most upsetting issues (and getting a bitter brew is unacceptable) and can get some good use out of the Lido 2.

Rappy wrote:Thanks for the realignment tips. However my problem is one of the four screws holding the hopper to the burr housing has threaded or rounded. The tool that was included with the grinder just freely spins in the socket of that screw. There is no way to get it loose. It wasn't a tight fit to start with, but at least it allowed me to turn it at an angle. Now it is stuck.

The torque gods were not smiling upon you tonight. I think it was mentioned in the alignment video that torque spec was 14 inch pounds at the 8:20 mark. That's not a whole lot.

Time to use an EZ-Out to get it out of there for replacement.



Even though they sent a hex ball driver with it, I'm resisting the temptation to fiddle with it. I almost think the top screw should have been a allen head and the rest should have been anti-tamper ones with the pin in the middle

7uxe wrote:Time to use an EZ-Out to get it out of there for replacement.

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Hmm. That looks like quite drastic action. I think I will see how it goes with a return. But thanks for all the moral support!

It's no big deal.. happens to the best of us. When life really gets interesting is when you break your hardened EZ-out off trying to remove a broken or stripped bolt and you're left with a piece of hardened steel to attempt to drill out and remove! I've done that before when working on cars.

It's completely possible (with the right tools) to remove your stripped screw from your Lido 2 and it's not a big deal and it's not too scary. I imagine you have to be careful with applying too much torque so you don't crack the plastic bean feeder tube. That would be a bitter pill to swallow. If the grinder utilized a higher grade bolt that didn't strip out, people might easily break the plastic tube or strip the threads out of the (aluminum I think) burr housing. That'd also be more painful to fix, but it's fixable.

Before you go to an easy-out, go to a hardware store and buy a hex driver that is not ball-end. Often a straight-ended hex driver will grip in a screw that a ball-ended one has rounded out, because it is reaching a different portion of the head. And loosen the other screws first to reduce the tension on the one you're trying to remove.

Best,
David