Removing damaged threaded fasteners requires a high level of hands on experience with actual removal in the physical circumstances relating to the job at hand and a great deal of knowledge relating to the array of removal tools at hand. This is not something that can be picked up by watching a YouTube video or reading a book, it is a tool box skill.

As an example you will not be removing a small diameter stainless screw out of a stainless steel part if it has become galled. There is always someone who tries though.

Yeah, I was only being half serious. If it happened to me, I would remove the screw as opposed to bothering sending it anywhere. But if you're not comfortable with the procedure, definitely don't turn your situation into a worse one. As mentioned above, a proper flat tip allen wrench may easily remove the screw to get it out and replace it with a new one.

I learned how to work on cars by breaking most of the first set of parts off of them And now I break things much less often due to that general understanding of what I can get away with when it comes to torque and the shear strength of bolts. But it still happens every now and again. Rule of thumb is to never attempt to take anything apart that might make you cry if it breaks

timpish wrote:[T]hat's a deal breaker from me. I would hate to have to be constantly watching that black mark while I grind.

That is definitely where I am at, currently. I've still yet to see a good amount more usage before I reach my conclusions and judgments, but I am pausing usually once or twice every grinding session to check the lock and re-lock as necessary. It is unlocking on me the majority of usages.

You are all probably sick of hearing from me, but for resolutions sake I will follow up with further developments.
I took the comments about removing the damaged screw by myself as a challenge to my manhood, so I set to work again, this time with a real hex driver. This did the trick. Thank you to David for the suggestion. It seems obvious now, but it wasn't at the time. So, then I performed a more meticulous realignment while the adjustment ring was attached to the inner burr axle. (In my opinion this is THE way to do it, as there is too much opportunity to knock the alignment out if you do it while it's floating.) I gradually tightened the screws whilst bit by bit loosening the adjustment ring (this is necessary since tightening the four screws brings everything closer together including the burrs). Just keep checking the motion is evenly frictional and try your best to minimise all asymmetrical scrapes and squeaks. I think mine is now as aligned as possible. Definitely better than how it was after the first attempt. For completions sake here's another photo of the grounds:



I think it looks much better.
So to anyone who has a similar problem, or to someone who is perhaps a little obsessive, I would recommend first aligning the burrs by following the youtube video from OE. But if that doesn't do the trick, try again with the adjustment ring attached via the undercarriage screw. This got me closer and has really minimised the fines.

Looks like you have it adjusted this time.

Well done!

Rappy wrote:So, then I performed a more meticulous realignment while the adjustment ring was attached to the inner burr axle. (In my opinion this is THE way to do it, as there is too much opportunity to knock the alignment out if you do it while it's floating.) I gradually tightened the screws whilst bit by bit loosening the adjustment ring (this is necessary since tightening the four screws brings everything closer together including the burrs). Just keep checking the motion is evenly frictional and try your best to minimise all asymmetrical scrapes and squeaks.

I also realigned my LIDO 2 exactly the same way. It really helped. The fines amount and particles consistency were close to my Rosco's after the realignment.

Rappy, I'm so glad to see that picture; it looks like you have solved your problem!

This is mine from today. I always forget to remember whether I push down while grinding but I definitely don't lift. How does this look at 1 turn, 3 notches. I think I may need to align as well.

I can make the output of my LIDO look good or bad just by how I set up the photo.

Can you guys really tell by looking at these pictures of grounds?