If you single dose, the lack of torque is not a problem, since the grinder can run before you spoon in the beans. If it is possible for you to do that, it would solve the problem. Alternatively, you can create a hopper that is a tube with a weight on top, which is how I ground what I tested it (I had the 350W/68mm version; I did not realize they put the larger burr in with the smaller motor)

hi jim and nicholas!

single dosing isn't any option for the grinder runs on my mobile coffee cart..
as mentioned below, the grinder has 71mm burrs. according to jim FIORENZATO let it out wth 68mm in earlier years. i guess, those burrs matched the FAEMA MC and CIMBALI CONIK conicals
can i switch back to the 68mm ones when changing the burr set next month? do the drills match the outer burr carrier?

thanks for your assesments,
axel

I don't know anything about the burr change, and what it entails. The burrs I tested were indeed the same as all other 68s, including the Konic.

However, I think your stalling may not be a design problem, since there are no other reports; it could be a defect in the gearing or starting capacitor of your grinder. Perhaps before you do burr surgery, you should let the dealer take a look.

I'm with Jim. You might want to get a little professional evaluation on the stalling issue.

As far as burrs go, you should be aware that there are several different types of mounting arrangements for different burrs, and indeed even the "71" and "68" mm burr sets are identical in terms of cutting surfaces (see the ancillary discussion here). I've pulled the burrs on a Robur and Nino and had a good look at my Compak K10's burrs. The outer burrs on these three grinders are not compatible in terms of mounting, as near as I can tell. different mounting hole sizes, different styles of alignment ridges, slightly different outer diameter. You need to make sure you get the right burrs for your grinder or have an ironclad way of returning any test burrs you want to try sight unseen.