Changing Baratza Preciso setting NOT while grinding...
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 years ago
Hi!
I have a new gaggia classic and baratza preciso I received yesterday. My first mistake was to adjust the grinder setting, and NOT while grinding. Actually, it's funny how in my instructions they first say how to adjust the grinder, then after that there is a note not to do it while the machine is not running. Might make sense to put the warning prior to the adjustment instruction!
Is it likely I did any damage?
Oh, and is there any necessity to calibrate the grinder in any way?
Thanks for helping a newbie! I'm thrilled with the shots I'm getting, though I'm quite sure I have a long way to go!
Burns
I have a new gaggia classic and baratza preciso I received yesterday. My first mistake was to adjust the grinder setting, and NOT while grinding. Actually, it's funny how in my instructions they first say how to adjust the grinder, then after that there is a note not to do it while the machine is not running. Might make sense to put the warning prior to the adjustment instruction!
Is it likely I did any damage?
Oh, and is there any necessity to calibrate the grinder in any way?
Thanks for helping a newbie! I'm thrilled with the shots I'm getting, though I'm quite sure I have a long way to go!
Burns
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- Posts: 153
- Joined: 19 years ago
First, which way did you adjust? Coarser moves the burrs further apart so no damage would occur. Finer moves them closer and there are two thing that could happen.
1. The burrs touch and when you turn on the grinder they rub and damage each other or they are so close they are locked and trip the overload.
2. The non-moving burrs crush beans in the grind path and get jammed so when you turn the grinder on it jams and trips the overload protection (reset on the machine or the circuit breaker)
Second, did you turn on the grinder after you did the adjustment? Did anything happen? Did you happen to hear a high pitched whine as if the burrs were just touching? If so you've found your 0 mark. Procede with calibration.
Bottom line,
Did you damage anything? Probably not.
1. The burrs touch and when you turn on the grinder they rub and damage each other or they are so close they are locked and trip the overload.
2. The non-moving burrs crush beans in the grind path and get jammed so when you turn the grinder on it jams and trips the overload protection (reset on the machine or the circuit breaker)
Second, did you turn on the grinder after you did the adjustment? Did anything happen? Did you happen to hear a high pitched whine as if the burrs were just touching? If so you've found your 0 mark. Procede with calibration.
Bottom line,
Did you damage anything? Probably not.
A Lever and a place to stand ...
LMWDP #152
LMWDP #152
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 years ago
I adjusted finer then back to coarser.
I'm assuming this would have been a loud, obnoxious whine if the burrs touch and I didn't hear anything like that. I'm surprised as a newbie that he machine would be designed in a way that they could touch - but that cause I'm a newbie!
I just watched a vid and read instructions for removing the burrs and inspected them - they look fine.
I'm assuming this would have been a loud, obnoxious whine if the burrs touch and I didn't hear anything like that. I'm surprised as a newbie that he machine would be designed in a way that they could touch - but that cause I'm a newbie!
I just watched a vid and read instructions for removing the burrs and inspected them - they look fine.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 years ago
So, is calibration necessary to bother with?
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 years ago
And how fine can I set it before the burrs touch? I'm confused.
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: 10 years ago
You will hear a slowing of the motor as the burrs get very close. But if you're getting the grind you need, don't mess with it. If you do have a problem, Baratza is very helpfull. Just run when you adjust too
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- Posts: 121
- Joined: 11 years ago
You'll know when the burrs touch. The sound will be distinctively different.
Kind of like porn. Hard to describe, but obvious when you see it.
You probably didn't hurt anything. Unless you really crank on something, your grinder isn't that fragile.
For the record, most the parts that break are designed to shear to preserve the expensive stuff if you accidentally grind a rock or something like the infamously loose stainless nuts off of the cooling arms of one of my roasters.
I have never hit a rock, but I did hit a stainless nut in my Major. - note to self: keep those suckers tight.
These things do happen, but they are genuinely rare. Even so, your grinder is designed to survive them as well as new users.
Kind of like porn. Hard to describe, but obvious when you see it.
You probably didn't hurt anything. Unless you really crank on something, your grinder isn't that fragile.
For the record, most the parts that break are designed to shear to preserve the expensive stuff if you accidentally grind a rock or something like the infamously loose stainless nuts off of the cooling arms of one of my roasters.
I have never hit a rock, but I did hit a stainless nut in my Major. - note to self: keep those suckers tight.
These things do happen, but they are genuinely rare. Even so, your grinder is designed to survive them as well as new users.
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: 10 years ago
Am I correct in understanding that the setting can be adjusted while not grinding, provided there are no beans in the hopper? I unfortunately made the same mistake on my first use, hopefully any damage was minimal.
Thanks!
Thanks!
- Eastsideloco
- Posts: 1657
- Joined: 13 years ago
If you are adjusting the grind coarser, it doesn't matter whether the grinder is running or not.
If you are adjusting finer, you want to do so with the grinder running. (Otherwise, you risk things binding on start up, causing problems like mechanical parts fatigue or failure, motor overload, etc..) If there are no beans in the hopper, you are less likely to experience binding-unless you actually bind metal on metal.
If you are adjusting finer, you want to do so with the grinder running. (Otherwise, you risk things binding on start up, causing problems like mechanical parts fatigue or failure, motor overload, etc..) If there are no beans in the hopper, you are less likely to experience binding-unless you actually bind metal on metal.