ira wrote: I don't understand why you think they're nits.

Nits because they're not really that much of a deal, and they're not completely pertinent to your particular situation, but pertinent to others who might come here looking for info.

ira wrote:I used the screw to make sure to get the numbers in the same relation to the burrs and to count the right number of turns

I'm a bit confused by this. There is only one 'entrance' for the two threads to match up, so they will always have the same relationship, and the upper burr's relationship to the upper carrier will be the same, or 120 degrees out in either direction, but shouldn't make any difference if it is. To get the same number coming up for grinding, you only need to screw the hopper/upper carrier down to where it touches, and then back up to the number you were using previously.
Or am I missing something?
I 'think' that we're using differing methods to accomplish the same thing, but I'm not certain that we're talking about the same thing. Apologies if I got it all cock-eyed.

I put the screw back in the most forward hole, then screwed off 11 turns. When replacing it, I screwed it on 11 turns and made sure the screw was in essentially the same spot, then I placed the hopper on so 42 was about where it was and the 3 screw holes lined up which left the alignment exactly the same as it was. It's a Rocky and 1/3 of a turn is so significant it's probably hard to miss, but I didn't screw it down to 0 and then back to the closest spot which is what I guess you probably do. Since I didn't know how hard it would be to regain the original numbers to burr alignment, I put a screw in as a marker so I'd either be correct or off by a complete turn.

Ira

ira wrote: I put a screw in as a marker so I'd either be correct or off by a complete turn.

The relative grind will always be the same, regardless of how the burr goes on the carrier. If the number you ground at this morning before cleaning isn't working, it will always be some number of completer rotations away. Think of the hopper adjustment as a giant screw, it will always go to the same depth at the same number of turns, and, like a phonograph record, there is really only one groove, it is just arranged in a spiral so it passes itself a number of times.
This is why I suggested that the 'screw it down until it stops and then back it off to where you ground before cleaning' method over the 'mark where you ground and screw it back in the same number of turns' method. It does accomplish the same thing in a slightly easier and (for folk who are anal retentively forgetful) less complicated.
Not that there is anything wrong with the way that you did it. Like I said, I only tossed these things into the mix or those that come looking for similar advice.

But the hopper can go on 3 ways can't it? If not than I understand your reaction, if so then you have to do something to get the hopper back correctly, that's all I was trying to do.

Ira

ira wrote:But the hopper can go on 3 ways can't it?

Technically, the carrier can only thread on one way, but the hopper can change position on top of it. The burrs can change position underneath it as well, both by 120 degrees in either direction. Neither of these should make a whit of difference as to the grind. IIRC, the only thing that would change on the hopper would be the number presented to you on the front (and that could be a problem) but if you're not taking the hopper off of the carrier, it won't be an issue.

You keep replying as if you think I don't understand the problem. I clearly understand the problem and I just wanted an easy way to make sure the numbers went back in the same place. It's as if were speaking different languages but saying the same thing.

Ira

ira wrote: It's as if were speaking different languages but saying the same thing.

Which was what I originally supposed! ; >
No, like I said, I only added my two cents to clarify for others who might be reading.

'Removing the hopper' can be interpreted as unscrewing the hopper/carrier/burr ass'y as well as taking the screws out of the hopper to remove it from the carrier.
I was just clarifying that (albiet poorly) that in the former, no notation was necessary because it can only go back one way, and in the latter it is important.
But yeah, essentially we're saying the same thing.

But unless you've modded it, you must remove the hopper to get the carrier off.

Ira

I don't recall any mod (possibly removed a 'retaining screw years ago and forgot?) but if I hold down the button on either of my Rocky's, and 'unscrew' the hopper, it'll come right out, hopper, carrier, burr and all.

Looking at the bottom of the hopper, it does look as if there might have been that screw there, but I'm betting that, like with the Majors, I figured that I could be trusted to keep my grind within the parameters that I'd set, plus or minus one whole revolution, and removed it.
Once that is gone (and anyone know what function it *really* is supposed to provide?) cleaning is probably a far simpler task.
Sorry, I was suggesting from memory again. Probably where the whole conversation left the tracks... ; >

Yes it will, as soon as you remove and discard the retaining screw.

Ira