Dawgcatching, have you read, re-read, and re-read again everything on this site pertaining to HX surfing? That's what I did before my first HX machined arrived 10 days ago. Especially the
Love HX and Chris talks about the
Flush & Go technique detailed I believe in Bricoletta review. I've been waiting for the Guru's to answer but will give my two cents worth. I have had the advantage of use of a Thermofilter to dial in HX surf, pulling literally hundreds of test shots the last week and a half. It has greatly speeded my learning curve, hugely. A fellow home roaster espresso enthusiast stopped by Saturday to check out the new Bric'. He has a boiler PIDd Silvia, same as me. I demonstrated how accurately temps can be hit. From idle I did my cooling flush, waited during PF build time (approx 45 sec) and asked him to pick a temp between 198 and 206F. IIRC he said 202 so I started the flush listening to the dance (not watching) started my fast paced one one thousand to four one thousand, locked in the Thermofilter and missed,
only hit 202.3F.
He was duly impressed.
Then proceeded to make his Purplemountain Kona cap... no waiting involved.
Each machine is different. And yes, boiler pressure makes a difference in the surf, especially if going by time. I've played with boiler settings from 1.2-1.4bar down to .85-1.05bar. Settled in on 1-1.2bar for best compromise between steam power and too long a surf. But I don't go by time, the machine will tell you when it's ready once you get to know its behavior.
I'm using about 10oz from idle flush to cool the HX and equalize the group head temp, 16 count after flash. From here I don't go by time anymore. I go by boiler cycling which is by sound or gauge. The initial cycle from flush will end rather quickly then kick back on in about 30 sec for it's 5-6sec heat. About 5sec later, as the sound of the heating boiler subsides, ready for flush and go. Flush 'till end of flash (not a dance cause it's not through a PF) will yield 206F. (If you don't get any flash you haven't waited long enough and HX not up to temp.) Each one one thousand down 1F. Immediately after a shot I always screen flush and PF blank PF wiggle (which averages about 2.5oz) which kicks on a heater cycle. Then proceed to building shot, heater will cycle on again same 30 sec or so later, same wait for boiler heating sound to subside ('bout 5sec) and ready for next flush and go.
Your Pulser will likely take longer to recovery between shots or after HX cooling flush but I suspect a similar procedure ought to work. Since you don't have a boiler pressure gauge go by it's sound, it's what I do anyway. After initial cooling flush from idle listen for the boiler to kick off, listen for it to kick back on and off then wait another 5 to 10 sec and try flush and go pulls. On the Bric' I've determined with 1-1.2bar starting flush and go any faster than 35sec after end of cooling flush or between shot screen flush/PF wiggle is to quick and temp drops off using same counts. With your lower wattage heater I'd suspect you minimum time would have to be longer.
While I'm sure many people find the flush and wait to come back up to temp method works for them, I prefer the simpler to me flush & go very accurate, pulling shot within 5sec of the flush & go.
Hope this helps more than confuses. And as always, YMMV!
