Rosemary wrote:Can anyone comment with relation to European v's American style? Do the rules demand a particular style of bean/roast etc or is it quite open to interpretation. Did the finalists adhere to a particular style?
Espresso style in the States is changing and becoming more varied. The premier blends in the past were almost exclusively medium dark roasted, very heavy bodied, very low in acidity and fruit flavors, with an emphasis on chocolate, distillates and caramels. Black Cat, Toscano, and Palladino are some outstanding examples.
Two years ago, Terroir started selling their North Italian SO Daterra, the same coffee used by the WBC winner that year. This introduced the straight espresso audience to a North Italian* espresso style popular in the Scandinavian countries. This was a light to medium roast, with good acidity, and prominent fruity tastes. At first, they had a tough time of it. To palates used to the blends at the time, it seemed crashingly acidic. Pulling it properly also required changes in dosing and shot temperature, and the know how only spread slowly.
But once the know how did spread, blends and SOs along these lines snowballed. Paradise Roaster's natural Yrgs, Metropolis's Red Line, and of course Terroir's offerings were all light and bright, and each created a lot of buzz. This year at the USBC finals, light blends were used not just by Heather, but also by Pete Licata and Peter Middlecamp. I'm not sure exactly how many of the semi-finals competitors were using blends in this style, but it certainly wasn't close to half the competitors. The good showing of these coffees means that at least among the audiences that make up the US judging pool, taste has shifted towards the lighter coffees.
*North Italian has become a positive selling descriptor in the US, so regardless of blend or roast depth, every espresso is described as a North Italian Roast (except Terroir's Southern Roast, which is perhaps the 2nd lightest bean I've seen in the US for espresso). I got some samples from Sandalj, an honest to goodness Trieste coffee importer, and the roast levels varied from cinnamon (lighter even than Terroir) to medium-dark, in other words, a large Agtron range. So in Northern Italy, "North Italian" doesn't convey much about the depth of roast.