WBC 2007 Finalists announced - Page 2

[Rosemary]

Thanks Jim for your comments. Does the degree of roast affect shelf life? Has this been a factor in the past that has led to the darker roasts being popular? Have the microroasters and their closeness to the consumption point aided the development of the lighter roasts?

Thanks Rosemary

[Jasonian]

Personally, I find the lighter roasts to remain pleasurable much longer after being roasted than darker roasts.

It could just be me, but that's my impression.

I think the movement towards lighter roasting has more to do with the progression of quality coffee as a whole.

When the quality of the green coffee is elevated, the coffee's own flavors are what need to be highlighted. This means a lighter roast in an effort to display the coffee as directly as possible.

[another_jim]

Does the degree of roast affect shelf life? Has this been a factor in the past that has led to the darker roasts being popular? Have the microroasters and their closeness to the consumption point aided the development of the lighter roasts?

I don't know, but my guess is that if anything, lighter roasts may stay aromatic longer, since they have more to start with. On the other hand, the taste may change less on darker roasts as they age.

Dark roasts were the rule in western countries until the beginning of the 20th century. Prior to that, most coffees were fairly low quality naturals, fermented and staled/aged by long sea voyages. Dark roasting was the way to get the funk out of the bean. Light roasts became popular with faster ship transport and the availability of Central American and East African washed coffees. In the US, as quality spiraled downward after the 2nd world war, the roasts stayed light. The first generation of West Coast specialty roasters (Alfred Peet and his trainees) used dark roasts to distinguish themselves. Espresso in the US, outside Italian enclaves, has a West Coast origin, and inherited this dark roast style. The East Coast founders of US Specialty coffee, Don Schoenholdt and George Howell, stayed with the light roasts, but weren't into espresso at all.

I think lighter roasts for US espresso happened almost entirely because of Barista competition, and the success of the Scandinavian countries. Many people who drank high end SOs as brewed coffee always used lighter roasts for these, but, at least on my part, it never occurred to me that these roasts were capable of being used in espresso. Personally, it took me a lot of time to get the required technique. That made knowing there was a payoff to the effort vital for undertaking it.

[King Seven]

I think a lot of people aim for the chocolate/nut/caramel espressos. I do enjoy that style a great deal, but for the WBC I wanted to serve something different to that. When I went out hunting for coffee I kept a very open mind and soon decided that I'd like to brew a single estate coffee, and if I wasn't going to use a blend then there was no point trying to find a single estate that tasted a bit like a blend. The Herbazu from Costa Rica ticked the main boxes I was looking for - mouthfeel, balance and finish. The actual flavour notes were a little different - whilst the espresso had hazelnuts and nougat on the nose in the cup there was a pleasing, slightly herbal note and a kind of satisfying plum fruit. The nougat popped back up again on the finish. The roast for this coffee was tricky, as it is two varietal - 30% Caturra and 70% of a local varietal called Villa Sarchi. When cupping it has a lovely appley acidity that took a while to tame in the roast without destroying the cup completely. The final roast profile started surprisingly cool and was very gently brought up. What shocked me was seeing how much the flight had caused the coffee to sweat, I was horrified when the beans first fell from the bag into the hopper but very relieved when we started to pull shots.

I feel quite strongly that the concept of espresso having to be a blend is a negative one. I really dislike the idea of some sort of perfect cup profile. With more and more great coffees being produced I would hate any sort of exclusionist attitude towards what is a viable and pleasing espresso. I don't think it is about better, instead about a level of excellence and then just differentiation within it.

For my capps I used a coffee that I had totally fallen in love with when brewing in my Chemex - Gethumbwini from Kenya. As an espresso it is a little crazy - the acidity will make your head spin - but in milk you get nothing but the soft blackcurrant fruit notes sweetened like jam. What amazed me during practises was that the cup smelled so strongly as soon as it was poured, with a raw, fresh picked blackcurrant smell that you get from the moment the coffee falls into the cooling tray. Again - it was borne out of frustration about capps having to taste a certain way and having to cut through milk a certain way. The roast for Gethumbwini was exactly the same as one you would aim for if it were to be drunk as brewed coffee - just aiming to maximise the fruit notes in the cup.

I think it is fairly clear from watching the video that there are far more technical baristas out there (not that I don't love to obsess of technique!) but credit really should go to the coffee. I am just relieved I did my job and got those coffees to the judges.

[Jasonian]

You have no idea how happy and thrilled I am that you took the crown.

I agree with you 110% on all counts. The "perfect profile" mentality in competition really frustrates me. It's the wrong approach entirely. Here's hoping your new position as ambassador will help to change that some.

[King Seven]

Thank you Jasonian, thats very kind. I've been very lucky with the support I've received!

[julioale]

Congratulation Jim, I have a question, how the baritas makes to conserve the coffee fresh until the day of the competition?

Ale

[another_jim]

I think a lot of people aim for the chocolate/nut/caramel espressos. I do enjoy that style a great deal, but for the WBC I wanted to serve something different to that. When I went out hunting for coffee I kept a very open mind and soon decided that I'd like to brew a single estate coffee, and if I wasn't going to use a blend then there was no point trying to find a single estate that tasted a bit like a blend. The Herbazu from Costa Rica ticked the main boxes I was looking for - mouthfeel, balance and finish. The actual flavour notes were a little different - whilst the espresso had hazelnuts and nougat on the nose in the cup there was a pleasing, slightly herbal note and a kind of satisfying plum fruit. The nougat popped back up again on the finish. The roast for this coffee was tricky, as it is two varietal - 30% Caturra and 70% of a local varietal called Villa Sarchi. When cupping it has a lovely appley acidity that took a while to tame in the roast without destroying the cup completely. The final roast profile started surprisingly cool and was very gently brought up. What shocked me was seeing how much the flight had caused the coffee to sweat, I was horrified when the beans first fell from the bag into the hopper but very relieved when we started to pull shots.

I was astonished when you talked about your coffees. I know big blackberry Kenyas can be great in milk, but I never thought they'd make it in the 1:4 ratio required for Barista comps. The CR was the real shocker, not just an SO, but a wet processed Caturra (Villa Sarchi is according to Illy another Caturra style Bourbon mutant)? That's about the last coffee on earth I'd think would work in espresso. Winning the competition with it doesn't just push the envelope, but breaks out of it entirely.

[King Seven]

I think Illy is pretty much on the money - I think Villa Sarchi came from Bourbon via Pacas (as I understand it anyway). When I first cupped it I dismissed it because that sample roast was a little too light and delicate but then we came back to it, tried a few different roasts and it began to show promise as an espresso. I never dosed it too high - around 16g or maybe 17g. The Gethumbwini I would dose a little higher just to push out the fruit, as balance isn't as important. I am drinking the remainder of my competition roast Gethumbwini through my French press and Chemex, though I don't think the roast of the Herbazu will stand up as well brewed like this. I am actually quite looking forward to getting a slightly lighter and quicker roast to drink.

I think a couple of the judges were pleasantly surprised by the espresso, one remarking afterwards that they were astounded at the body and mouthfeel (it gets quite buttery when it is on form).



julioale - We roasted the coffee about 5 days before I competed the first time, and I took with me as hand luggage - some with standard one way valve packaging and some with the valve taped over for the flight as the drop in pressure tends to mess with the coffee a little - though whether the taping made a significant difference I am unwilling to say. Would like to experiment more with it.

[another_jim]

I think a couple of the judges were pleasantly surprised by the espresso, one remarking afterwards that they were astounded at the body and mouthfeel (it gets quite buttery when it is on form).

Yup; and they weren't quite as poker faced, thank god, as they're supposed to be; you could see the "that's a nice surprise" expression on a few them as they sipped. Congratulations

[Abe Carmeli]

Hopefully I didn't come across too lecturing! I tried not to, instead of memorising a speech I just had mental bullet points. Anyways - I am happy to answer any questions about the coffees or brew recipes people might have. I think the bulk of my win, easily, is down to the quality of the raw ingredients.

Jim,

Congrats on the championship. You came across as understated, composed and elegant, or shall I say - English ?
What was your dose on those shots, and can you tell us which coffees you used in the single estate espresso and also (since you offered), the recipe of your sig drink?

[miKe mcKoffee]

I was astonished when you talked about your coffees. I know big blackberry Kenyas can be great in milk, but I never thought they'd make it in the 1:4 ratio required for Barista comps.

First congratulations Jim on the win, especially with your Third Wave SO focus!

Jim (another) I'm curious, are you surprised the Kenya caps held up to 4:1 milk ratio or meant more milk to tame Kenya's? For a couple of years bright coffees like Kenya's have been some of my favorite 3:1 caps (double shot built in 6oz cap cup). Just finished a quite delish Kenya Kariani cap in fact!

[another_jim]

First congratulations Jim on the win, especially with your Third Wave SO focus!

Jim (another) I'm curious, are you surprised the Kenya caps held up to 4:1 milk ratio or meant more milk to tame Kenya's? For a couple of years bright coffees like Kenya's have been some of my favorite 3:1 caps (double shot built in 6oz cap cup). Just finished a quite delish Kenya Kariani cap in fact!

I'm basically surprised that anything except a French roast Sumatra can make it in the Barista competition caps. When judging, one calibrates ones scoring; but overall, the competition caps suffer in comparison to the far less expert double shot ones I make for myself every morning. This is an area of the rules that could be revisited; perhaps to allow 3 to 4 ounce cappa cups and servings, as opposed to the current 5 to 6 ounces.

[jesawdy]

I split the follow on discussion of 1:3 ratio cappas and competition rules to Should the SCAA recognize 1:3 ratio cappuccinos?