Water Solutions for Espresso Brewing

[NewEnglandCliff]

This thread is devoted to covering all aspects of espresso brewing water.

Specific topics can include:

-any problems you may have run into
-water recommendations
-experiences with certain bottled waters
-pros and cons of using distilled water
-well water solutions
-methods for filtration
-specific equipment and fittings used
-sources for equipment
-machine manufacturers recommendations for water
-what you've had to do to remove scale
-any other water considerations




I'll start off by explaining how I solved a water supply problem I had with my Salvatore Espresso semi-automatic espresso machine. This is an HX, vibration pump pour over machine. Its stock water reservoir "tank" is actually a Nalgene type plastic water bottle with a screw on cap. Filling was easy enough, but cleaning thoroughly was not easy and required a time consuming removal of the bottle from the machine. If it isn't cleaned at least every week a strong moldy or musty smell became apparent from the bottle mouth. If you let it go much longer without cleaning, a slimy film would coat the inside of the bottle. Not good.

I solved this by replacing the bottle tank with an external Brita Filter Pitcher. They make several sizes and shapes, and I found one that fits easily into the cabinet above the espresso machine. I located a model that has one nearly flat side (most are somewhat oval) so that I could drill a hole and tap a thread. This particular model has one such flat spot just beneath the handle at the base of the pitcher, perfect for mounting a brass elbow with rubber flat washers on either side of the pitcher wall. If you tap the plastic wall carefully enough, no washers are even needed. Or you could use a food safe sealant. To the brass elbow I attached a flexible stainless water supply line (this particular line is designed to hook up the ice makers/water dispensers of most refridgerators, and is available at Home Depot and many hardware stores) and attached the other end of the hose's fitting to the espresso machine where the tank had been connected. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the kitchen cabinet above the machine and ran the line through it. I have horrible tasting well water, so I fill the Brita pitcher with bottled spring water which gravity feeds through its filter and down into the espresso machine.

So in addition to solving the tank cleaning problem, my brewing water quality is much better. The pitcher capacity is greater than that of the original tank, as well. And while filling the old tank was never an issue, you can't get much easier than pouring water into the top of an open pitcher (this one has a hinged lid over an opening of about 4"x10"). Finally, those who own this machine know that the only way to check the water lever is to stick your head directly over the opening on top near the back, assuming you have enough room under your cabinet, and peer directly down into the tank with the aid of a flashlight. Of course, all you have to do with the pitcher is glance at it.

[ron45]

My water problem concerns fooling the boiler sensors that don't like RO or Distilled water. The only solution I got from anyone on the coffee industry was to add a cup of my well water to the RO water when I fill the 1.7 liter plastic tank. The machine is an Expobar Office Pulser [really dumb name] It's an HX machine. I've cut the cup of well water back to two shot glasses and a pinch of salt. The machine doesn't mind. But I know how mineral laden my water is so I'd like to reduce the amount I add to a minimum.

I'd been told the pinch of salt should do it all by itself. So my question really concerns my lack of understanding of how these machines function. I assume these other sensors that don't like RO water live in the boiler. Is that correct? What if the sensors don't like the RO water with salt only. For them to even see it, it has to get into the boiler if my first assumption is correct. Will the machine shut itself down before the boiler fills? Or would the boiler fill then shut down. It depends on where the sensors are I guess. But say I give it the salted water and it hates it. Will I have to disassemble the boiler to empty it? Or is there a way to bypass the sensors and get the boiler to empty via the hot water wand as I refill with water I know it likes? Any help would be appreciated. Filtering my well water is not an option. Buying spring water is not an option. I'm in a rural area with notoriously bad water and RO or distilled is it. Thanks to any brave souls who will dare to discuss this topic. Coffee forums seem to abound with card carrying authoritarians whose only advise is to 'do what the manual sez'...not an option.

Ron

[barry]

So my question really concerns my lack of understanding of how these machines function.

these sensors work by passing a very small current of electricity through the water. when the circuit is interrupted, then whatever is supposed to happen, happens.

distilled and deionized water will not conduct electricity as there are no free ions in solution. some RO water is low enough in ionic content that it will not conduct the small current required for the sensors. it doesn't take much, so a few grains of salt (or any ionic compound) should be enough.

[ron45]

Thanks Barry, I new about the sensors and current. My question referred more to how they affect the filling of the boiler. My RO water passes enough current to get a continuity reading on my Fluke 87. I'm just chicken to try the water by itself or with a little salt added till I have a better idea of the consequences and how a current will suffice. I expect this would have to do with how whatever logic circuitry it has uses the info from the sensors. i.e. fill the boiler/shut down or refuse the water/shut down. The company would freak out if they found out I disassembled the thing because I couldn't empty the boiler any other way. So I guess I'm a bit of an authoritarian myself while the warranty is in effect.

Ron

[rfc]

Had my refurbished Mini Grimac (now called the Mia) for about 4 months. After initial restoration, unit worked great. I know I have fairly hard water with lots of calcium, so I was contemplating what to do when she finally caked up with scale. Here's what I did.

I used an old stainless steel water type fire extinguisher I had laying around. I put about two gallons of citric acid solution in it and plumbed it to a tee onto the main water line AFTER the sediment filter. I included two petcocks, one from the tank and the other from the main line. Then, using a bicycle pump, pressurized the tank to 25 psi; just enough to push the liquid to the machine.

To descale, I close the main line; open the descaler, run a liter and a half through the boiler, lifting the boiler fill limit wire to overfill the boiler; I also ran the descaling liquid through the portafilter and the steam nozzle and let the thing cook for 1/2 hour.

Repeated this two more times. Voila!

Noticed an instant improvement in temperature of the group (It had been dropping into the high 180s when measured with the styrofoam cup prior to descaling.)

Whole process took about 15 minutes of actual time over perhaps an hour. Easily doable once a month now.

[barry]

My RO water passes enough current to get a continuity reading on my Fluke 87. I'm just chicken to try the water by itself or with a little salt added till I have a better idea of the consequences and how a current will suffice.

i'm not sure i understand your question, then. if your RO water shows continuity, then that should suffice. lack of continuity will result in an overfull condition because the control circuit won't know when to shut off.

[ron45]

Hi Barry Sorry it took so long to get back here. I guess I was looking for reassurances in the previous post. I still haven't tried the RO water by itself yet. But I'm down to adding about an ounce and a half of tap h2o and a small pinch of salt to the RO. No detectable taste and the Expobar is happy so I guess I am too. The last part of the last sentence in my last post should have read "how much current will suffice." Just thought of a question tho. Does over filling the boiler mean water runs out of the group or that there is no room left in the boiler for steam? The boiler is kind of a closed system till some valve opens isn't it?

Ron

[barry]

Just thought of a question tho. Does over filling the boiler mean water runs out of the group or that there is no room left in the boiler for steam? The boiler is kind of a closed system till some valve opens isn't it?

typically it comes squirting out the pop valve.

[ron45]

Got it thanks. Not something to look forward to. Thanks Barry.

Ron

[Dogshot]

Hi,

If my Brita tests at 110ppm and I want to reduce that to something closer to 80ppm, can I just add distilled water in proportion to the Brita water to mix it down? For example, if I have water at 100ppm and want water at 50ppm, can I add equal parts of 100ppm water and distilled to end up with 50ppm water?

Thanks for the help,

Mark

[barry]

For example, if I have water at 100ppm and want water at 50ppm, can I add equal parts of 100ppm water and distilled to end up with 50ppm water?

unless there's something i'm overlooking, i'd say 'yes', you can do that.