Piston pressure gauge for Strietman CT1 - Page 10

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naked-portafilter (original poster)
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#91: Post by naked-portafilter (original poster) »

mivanitsky wrote:Hello Gabor,

I received my kit last week, and installed it over the weekend. It looks and performs beautifully! My only complaint is that the machine runs 10 degrees cooler with the inability to use the boiler cover. This is even with turning the knob all the way to the + side. I may need to PID this machine now, or fashion a different cover. Anyone found a good PID solution for the CT1?

One thing I did while installing the kit was to put the C-clip in too far, below its slot. This prevented the inner piston pivot from rising, and no water would pass thorough on first use. This was entirely my fault, but was pretty easy to do accidentally. The C-clip must be fully seated in the slot, not below it. This probably would not have happened if I used better lighting!

Also, I was not able to remove the lever arm pivot axle by tapping alone; it was necessary to heat it with a torch. I wonder whether Wouter used some Red Loctite or equivalent to secure it.
I don't think a Strietman would need to be ever pidded. You can simply shift (rise) the temperature band by removing the knob and adjust it with the screw inside. You could even boil the water in the boiler. There is a post describing the exact method for it. Could somebody post here the linkt to it pls?

I will check a nice solution for the lid also (most probably machining or maybe laser cutting).

Great hint for removing the pin! There is a member who is struggling with the removal. Thanks!

RyanP
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#92: Post by RyanP »

mivanitsky wrote:
Also, I was not able to remove the lever arm pivot axle by tapping alone; it was necessary to heat it with a torch. I wonder whether Wouter used some Red Loctite or equivalent to secure it.
I was wondering if I'm the only one who has ran into this issue. I have been unsuccessful at removing the pin/axle from the piston. I've tried pushing and tapping it out with a hammer and blunt pin. I even brought it to a friend's shop to see if he could free it. We did try heating the piston, but we can't get the damn thing to budge. I'm basically stuck with having to purchase a new lever shaft from Wouter, which I'm gracious that he can sell me one, but this is nevertheless a kind of frustrating situation.

mivanitsky
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#93: Post by mivanitsky replying to RyanP »

You did remove the C-clip from the old piston, and just heated the inner part, right? We had to use a butane torch and heat it for about 2 minutes to break the lock.

I can't take full credit for the technique, as Pat and I did it together, and Pat, a trained, highly skilled mechanic, was operating the torch. I did come up with the idea to try it.

mivanitsky
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#94: Post by mivanitsky »

naked-portfilter wrote:I don't think a Strietman would need to be ever pidded. You can simply shift (rise) the temperature band by removing the knob and adjust it with the screw inside. You could even boil the water in the boiler. There is a post describing the exact method for it. Could somebody post here the linkt to it pls?

I will check a nice solution for the lid also (most probably machining or maybe laser cutting).

Great hint for removing the pin! There is a member who is struggling with the removal. Thanks!
Thank you. I had no dissatisfaction with the temp management previously, so hopefully I will be able to do this.

I'll improvise something out of silicone while awaiting a more elegant solution.

RyanP
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#95: Post by RyanP »

mivanitsky wrote:You did remove the C-clip from the old piston, and just heated the inner part, right? We had to use a butane torch and heat it for about 2 minutes to break the lock.

I can't take full credit for the technique, as Pat and I did it together, and Pat, a trained, highly skilled mechanic, was operating the torch. I did come up with the idea to try it.
Yes, I'm talking about removing the pin from the inner piston. If Wouter hadn't told me otherwise I would've guessed he had applied some sort of adhesive to it.

mivanitsky
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#96: Post by mivanitsky »

Heat it more, and hit it harder.

We used a brass punch and ball-peen hammer. The piston was on 2 low wooden blocks with the axle over the space between them. It came out without difficulty, but with firm tapping and adequate heating. We could not get it to budge at all, without the torch.

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naked-portafilter (original poster)
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#97: Post by naked-portafilter (original poster) »

mivanitsky wrote:Heat it more, and hit it harder.......We could not get it to budge at all, without the torch.
How to toture the CT1 piston unit more... That sounds very heavy.... and painful. These medieval methods will break that stuck axle once for sure. I'm really sorry that Ryan has such difficulties. If you damaged the axle on one end you should try (heating it more as before) from the other end. But do it very carefully. It isn't worth damaging the inner piston. Another option is to give it to a reliable machine workshop. That would be surely the most economic and fastest solution.

mivanitsky
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#98: Post by mivanitsky »

We did no damage. The old assembly went together without difficulty, after the fact.

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naked-portafilter (original poster)
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#99: Post by naked-portafilter (original poster) replying to mivanitsky »

Sorry Mike. No offense at all. That was meant for Ryan.

mivanitsky
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#100: Post by mivanitsky »

naked-portfilter wrote:Sorry Mike. No offense at all. That was meant for Ryan.
None taken. It should be noted that one should try not to damage anything in the process!

Thanks again for making this wonderful mod for an already perfect machine!