HX Brugnetti Aurora showerhead correctly showering? - Page 3

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jedovaty (original poster)
Posts: 537
Joined: 13 years ago

#21: Post by jedovaty (original poster) »

Aw cool, looks great. Is your before picture from the back of the machine? My steam is on the left, water on the right, when looking at it from the front. That gives me an idea how to do this.

I also realized I need to get a lever for the water fill - mine didn't come with one, I've been using a screw driver. I found a thread where you, Sam, provide some info and a link to the parts catalogue for the australian company, but that lever doesn't have part number, DRAT. I checked cafe parts, too, no luck. Any idea where to go?

How do you empty the boiler? Heat it up and let water out the water tap?

samuellaw178
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Posts: 2483
Joined: 13 years ago

#22: Post by samuellaw178 »

jedovaty wrote:Aw cool, looks great. Is your before picture from the back of the machine? My steam is on the left, water on the right, when looking at it from the front. That gives me an idea how to do this.
The 'before' picture was taken from the front, and the 'current' from the back. My hot water actually comes through the side port of the boiler (not top right, if that makes sense). but yeah, my steam wand is on the left of the machine, and hot water on the right.
jedovaty wrote:I also realized I need to get a lever for the water fill - mine didn't come with one, I've been using a screw driver. I found a thread where you, Sam, provide some info and a link to the parts catalogue for the australian company, but that lever doesn't have part number, DRAT. I checked cafe parts, too, no luck. Any idea where to go?
I believe levers/handles are not normally considered as spare parts and I've never seen one being offered separately. The best route will likely be to machine one from scratch, unfortunately....
jedovaty wrote:How do you empty the boiler? Heat it up and let water out the water tap?
To empty the boiler, it depends how you have it setup in the first place. There is no check valve (or one way valve) in Aurora's water inlet valve - so if you depress the lever when there's no water pressure/supply, the water in the boiler will reverse-flow on its own due to gravity/siphon effect. I think it's a safer way to empty the boiler.

The hot water method can work too and may be more convenient, but it doesn't empty the boiler as cleanly. I would wait a min or two after the heat is cut off, before emptying the boiler. Just being on the cautious side as I had once tripped a thermo-safety switch using this method (probably from the residual heat on the element), but that happened on a completely different machine.

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Gustopher
Posts: 58
Joined: 10 years ago

#23: Post by Gustopher »

jedovaty wrote:I also realized I need to get a lever for the water fill - mine didn't come with one, I've been using a screw driver. I found a thread where you, Sam, provide some info and a link to the parts catalogue for the australian company, but that lever doesn't have part number, DRAT. I checked cafe parts, too, no luck. Any idea where to go?
If you are in Aus I have a spare fill valve

jedovaty (original poster)
Posts: 537
Joined: 13 years ago

#24: Post by jedovaty (original poster) »

Thanks, Sam, that's a great way to empty the boiler :)

Gus: I'm in so cal. I don't need the fill valve, just the handle and the bar that secures in in place.

turboyeast
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#25: Post by turboyeast »

Hi guys,
Not sure where to post...it's raining Aurora Brugnetti at the moment... :D
But I guess showerhead/showering is the most relevant place.
As you are aware I have been fiddling with the showerscreen as well...I am leaving things for the moment, but I will like to stirrup the discussion related to the metal sphere (ball) in the neck of the group.
When I pull the lever, the sphere gives a soft rattling sound (obviously caused by movement of the sphere by waterflow). When I take a look at the exploded view of the group, a seat (teflon?) can be seen. I have not installed this teflon seat, since I could not obtain it.
Can we improve the process on the sphere site by adding seats, springs, heavier spheres?

Cheers, TY

samuellaw178
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Posts: 2483
Joined: 13 years ago

#26: Post by samuellaw178 »

turboyeast wrote: When I pull the lever, the sphere gives a soft rattling sound (obviously caused by movement of the sphere by waterflow). When I take a look at the exploded view of the group, a seat (teflon?) can be seen. I have not installed this teflon seat, since I could not obtain it.
Can we improve the process on the sphere site by adding seats, springs, heavier spheres?

Cheers, TY
I am not sure if they ever come with a teflon seat, but on mine I'm certain it's a rubber/EPDM O-ring. It's a pretty common o-ring size designated as OR-0015 (also used on Silvia's steam wand assembly if I am not mistaken, as well as other machines).

They also go by a couple other part names but I didn't keep the links unfortunately:

https://www.espressoparts.com/o-ring-0115-epdm

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181938137737 ... EBIDX%3AIT

I had in fact tried adding springs on mine, but couldn't find a good spring. It has to be a weak stainless spring so it doesn't restrict the flow. The metal ball is about 16mm and that's diameter(14-15mm) the spring should be. I ended up rolling up & stuffing some stainless mesh sheet I had so the ball doesn't move so much (see the theme here? I always recycle stuff I have on hand :oops: ).

Any idea for a spring source? :D Maybe we could get a stainless steel wire and make the spring ourselves just by coiling it...

jedovaty (original poster)
Posts: 537
Joined: 13 years ago

#27: Post by jedovaty (original poster) »

We took a piece of 1/4" sheet metal, cut it to 4"x1/2", ground it a little, spray painted it (all I had was a bbq spray paint, it doesn't match, but that'll get fixed when I restore the machine later). Drilled a 3/16" hole into it, the bit got dull so we chopped off the bit end, heated the smooth side a bit, and pounded on the end so it wouldn't fall through. 3/8" metal would've been a better, however, didn't have any on hand. I think your local box hardware store (e.g. home despot, etc) may carry strips of metal that would only need a cut in one direct, too, for pretty cheap, like $3-6.

Applied beeswax on pin and contact points of lever for silky smooth operation.

I wish we'd thought of this years ago haha, it took only a few minutes to make the two pieces :roll:




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febi
Posts: 21
Joined: 8 years ago

#28: Post by febi »

Hi guys,
this thread was very helpful :)

Maybe useful for turbo as you are located in europe:
I'm currently using this shower screen: Art.Nr.: 9G11174 on http://www.ersatzteile24.at
and this additional shower screen on top: Art.Nr.: 9C11124 on http://www.ersatzteile24.at

And I get the following water flow out of the dispersion screen:
Cheers

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