TC4C+HTC & TC Probes. My Hottop Install.
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dcoplan
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 8 years ago
Just like you can't credit B.B. King for great blues without crediting the influences that came before him, there are a number of people who have contributed lots of info about this topic that has led to the install I ended up doing. However, I'm specifically recognizing BarryR because his is the only solution I came across in literally weeks of research that presented an all-inclusive "just do this" set of instructions that compiled the otherwise baffling set of decisions for a complete newbie (that's me) into a neat and tidy presentation.
So the following is actually BarryR's solution as originally posted here...
http://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/vie ... post_53557
I'm posting my version to both make it easier for other people to find and with some more detail and more pics.
My roaster is a Hottop 8828B-2. The following may apply to other versions, but I have no idea so keep that in mind if you have a different model.
Image 1: Parts List
1) 10mm Kapton tape. Purchased on eBay. You'll use less than a foot so the smallest roll you get will be way more than you need. I paid $1.20 including shipping.
2) 6mm high temperature fiber glass sleeving. Purchased on eBay. Get 2 meters (approx. 6-1/2 feet). It'll be a bit more than you need - perfect. I paid $3.20 including shipping.
3) 1/4" OD x 1/8" high temp silicone tubing. Purchased on eBay. The stuff I found is sold by the foot. You only need about 6" so one foot is plenty. I paid $5.20 including shipping.
4) Two each of the following from http://www.antiquelampsupply.com...
a. Brass Small Head Flange Nipple (22359)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... nge-nipple
b. Brass Shade Adjuster Coupling (21014U)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... r-coupling
c. 1/8F Brass Locknut (20700)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... ss-locknut
d. Plated Steel Lock Washers (22701)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... ck-washers
e. Set Screws - I got these at my local hardware store but Antique Lamp Supply should have these for the couplings.
I paid $13.28 for these parts, not including the set screws, including shipping.
5) Two Omega HTTC18-K-18G-1.75-GG probes. You'll have to call Omega (http://www.omega.com) and place a custom order. I paid $45.78 including shipping.
6) HTC+TC4C combo. $189 + shipping. Order from http://www.mlgp-llc.com/htri
7) 8-wire main control cable. This can be ordered from Hottop or along with the HTC+TC4C boards. It's cheaper from Hottop but when you add in shipping, it makes more sense to get along with the boards. Around $16. There is a 7-wire model as well so make sure you get the right one!
Image 2: This is as far as I disassembled the roaster. Notice I left the bean chute in place.
Images 3, 4, 5: I got two small magnets and put screws on the ends to help locate where to drill the holes for the probes. I installed the drum (just holding it) and slowly rotated it to make sure there wouldn't be any interference. I also eyeballed the back of the plate to make sure I wouldn't drill into anything I shouldn't. I outlined the magnets with tape to help locate the centers for drilling after removing the magnets and screws.
Image 6: I put the roaster on its back for drilling. I considered removing the plate entirely but really didn't want to go to that hassle if I didn't have to and...I didn't have to. I have no idea how people have drilled this plate horizontally but I don't recommend it. Stacking Scott Rao's 'Coffee Roaster's Companion' and 'Everything But Espresso' books under the roaster worked brilliantly to keep it level and stable.
Image 7: Initially I whacked away at the center points for the holes with a hammer and large, sharp nail but was concerned about damaging the roaster with all that unnecessary violence so I tried the smallest bit I had for my hand drill and it worked perfectly. You don't need anything special - a simple wood bit should do.
Image 8: I cut things really close. This is where just eyeballing things could have screwed me but I got lucky. You have to consider the diameter of the holes, not just the centers. The lines with the asterisks are parts of the roaster I came very close to drilling into.
Images 9 & 10: The finished holes (see how close I got to those other parts!). I progressed through probably four or five increasingly larger bits before drilling with the final 3/8" bit. For this final size I got an actual bit made for drilling steel. Even so, the holes were just a wee bit small so I used a round file and a tapered grinder bit with my Dremel to slowly open up the holes until the brass nipples just fit.
Images 11 & 12: The fittings.
Images 13 & 14: I used just a bit of light oil on the probes to get them to slip easily into the tubing. The Kapton tape is used around the tubing on the nipple side of the fittings because that diameter is a bit larger than the coupling behind. I wrapped more than I needed and then bit by bit removed material until the probe/tubing/tape assembly fit snugly (inserted from the drum side towards the back of the roaster). I put a little blue Loctite on the set screws and tightened them just enough to make contact and add a little pressure. The probes are firmly in place.
Image 15: Without any additional hardware, I mounted two of the threads from the nylon standoffs through existing slots in the side by the control panel. I added two nylon nuts to secure the boards on the other side. This requires some wiggling around and manipulation but it works.
Images 16 & 17: I drilled/cut a simple notch on the bottom of the rear cover for the USB cable. I wrapped self-fusing silicone tape (Rescue Tape) around the USB cable on both sides of the rear cover to keep it from pushing in to the roaster or pulling out of the socket in case it gets snagged.
That's it!
So the following is actually BarryR's solution as originally posted here...
http://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/vie ... post_53557
I'm posting my version to both make it easier for other people to find and with some more detail and more pics.
My roaster is a Hottop 8828B-2. The following may apply to other versions, but I have no idea so keep that in mind if you have a different model.
Image 1: Parts List
1) 10mm Kapton tape. Purchased on eBay. You'll use less than a foot so the smallest roll you get will be way more than you need. I paid $1.20 including shipping.
2) 6mm high temperature fiber glass sleeving. Purchased on eBay. Get 2 meters (approx. 6-1/2 feet). It'll be a bit more than you need - perfect. I paid $3.20 including shipping.
3) 1/4" OD x 1/8" high temp silicone tubing. Purchased on eBay. The stuff I found is sold by the foot. You only need about 6" so one foot is plenty. I paid $5.20 including shipping.
4) Two each of the following from http://www.antiquelampsupply.com...
a. Brass Small Head Flange Nipple (22359)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... nge-nipple
b. Brass Shade Adjuster Coupling (21014U)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... r-coupling
c. 1/8F Brass Locknut (20700)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... ss-locknut
d. Plated Steel Lock Washers (22701)
http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/produc ... ck-washers
e. Set Screws - I got these at my local hardware store but Antique Lamp Supply should have these for the couplings.
I paid $13.28 for these parts, not including the set screws, including shipping.
5) Two Omega HTTC18-K-18G-1.75-GG probes. You'll have to call Omega (http://www.omega.com) and place a custom order. I paid $45.78 including shipping.
6) HTC+TC4C combo. $189 + shipping. Order from http://www.mlgp-llc.com/htri
7) 8-wire main control cable. This can be ordered from Hottop or along with the HTC+TC4C boards. It's cheaper from Hottop but when you add in shipping, it makes more sense to get along with the boards. Around $16. There is a 7-wire model as well so make sure you get the right one!
Image 2: This is as far as I disassembled the roaster. Notice I left the bean chute in place.
Images 3, 4, 5: I got two small magnets and put screws on the ends to help locate where to drill the holes for the probes. I installed the drum (just holding it) and slowly rotated it to make sure there wouldn't be any interference. I also eyeballed the back of the plate to make sure I wouldn't drill into anything I shouldn't. I outlined the magnets with tape to help locate the centers for drilling after removing the magnets and screws.
Image 6: I put the roaster on its back for drilling. I considered removing the plate entirely but really didn't want to go to that hassle if I didn't have to and...I didn't have to. I have no idea how people have drilled this plate horizontally but I don't recommend it. Stacking Scott Rao's 'Coffee Roaster's Companion' and 'Everything But Espresso' books under the roaster worked brilliantly to keep it level and stable.
Image 7: Initially I whacked away at the center points for the holes with a hammer and large, sharp nail but was concerned about damaging the roaster with all that unnecessary violence so I tried the smallest bit I had for my hand drill and it worked perfectly. You don't need anything special - a simple wood bit should do.
Image 8: I cut things really close. This is where just eyeballing things could have screwed me but I got lucky. You have to consider the diameter of the holes, not just the centers. The lines with the asterisks are parts of the roaster I came very close to drilling into.
Images 9 & 10: The finished holes (see how close I got to those other parts!). I progressed through probably four or five increasingly larger bits before drilling with the final 3/8" bit. For this final size I got an actual bit made for drilling steel. Even so, the holes were just a wee bit small so I used a round file and a tapered grinder bit with my Dremel to slowly open up the holes until the brass nipples just fit.
Images 11 & 12: The fittings.
Images 13 & 14: I used just a bit of light oil on the probes to get them to slip easily into the tubing. The Kapton tape is used around the tubing on the nipple side of the fittings because that diameter is a bit larger than the coupling behind. I wrapped more than I needed and then bit by bit removed material until the probe/tubing/tape assembly fit snugly (inserted from the drum side towards the back of the roaster). I put a little blue Loctite on the set screws and tightened them just enough to make contact and add a little pressure. The probes are firmly in place.
Image 15: Without any additional hardware, I mounted two of the threads from the nylon standoffs through existing slots in the side by the control panel. I added two nylon nuts to secure the boards on the other side. This requires some wiggling around and manipulation but it works.
Images 16 & 17: I drilled/cut a simple notch on the bottom of the rear cover for the USB cable. I wrapped self-fusing silicone tape (Rescue Tape) around the USB cable on both sides of the rear cover to keep it from pushing in to the roaster or pulling out of the socket in case it gets snagged.
That's it!
