Being a retired machinist I don't see glue was a permanent solution.. Especially on a boiler..

My guess is the blind holes were not tapped (threaded) deep enough and the screw jammed into the bottom of the threaded hole..

I agree. I would not accept this as a proper repair on a warrantied machine. The boiler should have been removed, the broken bits should have been drilled/milled out, and re-tapped or plugged with new holes drilled. They could have drilled oversize and installed expansion plugs or plugged with NPT plugs if the holes could not be salvaged. This would have been very easy for someone of moderate ability to fix properly.

This is not a proper repair.

While I understand the general sentiment, what is the worst that could happen here? I think the fix is as permanent and restores the original function of the machine. Remember, the switches didn't fall off - they were broken off by the customer.

I think the point being made is that - after an issue was a technical fault of the machine that was repaired under warranty - whatever work was done should be exactly the same technically and visually as a new machine. Otherwise what's the point of having a warranty? It shouldn't be a patched fix - it should be an 'as new' fix, especially on a machine that isn't very old and happens to cost nearly $4000 CDN.

Profitec sells so many of these machines that I would be pretty shocked if a new boiler, connectors, and proper parts costs them much at all.

Either way, if a warranty fix didn't make the machine look exactly the way it should upon inspection of a new machine, I'd be pretty angry about it.

One way to look at it is... if you were to sell the machine tomorrow would it be worth any less because of the style in which it was repaired. I think the answer is yes. If IDC didn't discuss the repair with the customer before performing it, then that would definitely be a problem.

On the other hand...

Are these machines supposed to be user repairable, especially during the warranty period? Here's what the P700 user manual says...

"Any repairs or changes of single components must be carried out by an authorized specialty dealer. In case of non-observance the manufacturer does not assume liability and is not liable for recourse."

Given that statement, I think IDC acted in good faith.

I'm now going to do a visual inspection on my three month old Pro 700 after reading about all the leaky fittings..
I already had to correct the PID offset that has not been fixed from manufacture or seller...

Well, I was a bit skeptical of the tech being able to remove the stuck tips using screw extractors without damaging the threads, due to their small sizes. Obviously he did remove the boiler to work on it, and did a great job at cleaning the boiler surface (it was pretty hard) and tightening / sealing the intake and outtake. He also cleaned the temperature probe (or perhaps he replaced it?).

I don't know much about boiler design and I'm not sure if he used safety switches that were meant to be glued on. But technically, if they perform the same as the original design, then one could argue that the original design was prone to breakage due to the switch threads seizing up. Whereas, worse case scenario, I can glue new switches if those get damaged in the future.

So short of a full boiler replacement (which was not possible due to IDC not having any shipment from Profitec for the next several months), I feel this is probably the next best repair. I'm not sure I'd feel safer if the body of the boiler would have been drilled into. A new boiler would have been great but considering I'm at least partly at fault here, and I didn't pay a cent of shipping or repair, I'm pretty happy with the outcome.

Time will tell if the leak returns or if the switches hold; however in the full year and a half I had the machine, I've never had them trip.

As for checking for leaks on the Pro 700, I'd say it's a good idea, obviously. I had one at the pump intake when the machine was new; it's hard to tell when the leak at the brew boiler intake developed as I don't peek inside the machine that often.

zimberto wrote:While I understand the general sentiment, what is the worst that could happen here? I think the fix is as permanent and restores the original function of the machine. Remember, the switches didn't fall off - they were broken off by the customer.

Think about it. It's pressurized steam and water mixed with electricity. In the case of shoddy home electrical work it could be fatal. Best case you blow steam all over the inside of an expensive espresso machine all because somebody did a hack job band-aid repair. There is no defending gluing these on with a smidge of copper RTV sealant. Fixing it correctly, warranty or not, would have been very easy. Not only would I not accept this as a repair, I would not use this machine until correctly repaired.

Here is my opinion on glue..
It's not a mechanical fastener and if the glue does fail from heating and cooling over time, how will you know it failed?
Are you planning on checking it once a month?

Your safety's would not have corroded if the fittings did not leak..
Looking at your pics it looks like the electronics on the broken switch were corroded and may not have been working when you removed them..

Tapping blind holes this small is a bear for a novice or someone that has not done small holes a lot..

Here is my advice on how to tap small holes for anyone interested..

If you don't have a drill press drill a hole in a wood block the same size of the tap drill.. Make sure you drill it square to the base..
Use this as your guide (drill jig) to drill hole your hole square into the boiler..

Now to need another block of wood that guides the tap just like the drill bit..
Or if you mark the position of the block of wood (if you drilled the block at a small angle the tap will be at the same angle) while drilling the tap hole you can just open the tap drill hole in the wood block to the size of the tap and use that same block of wood..

This is called a Tapping Block..
Most are shop made by machinists..
Mine is very small 1/2"W x 1 1/2"H x 3"L and largest size tap it takes is 1/4"
Makes it easy to get next to vertical surfaces and other stuff that a larger one..

Image of tapping block
http://www.cannonballltd.com/products_img/pt57206.jpg