Convert E61 to plumb-in: Why can't it be done? - Page 2

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · #11: Post by **erics** » May 26th, 2016, 11:15 am

No water line regulation needed.

That's certainly true but a reduced pressure (like, say, 30 psi) would make life easier on any float valve of this type.

If I were to do this, I would certainly get a recommendation from the particular float valve manufacturer as regards the acceptable input pressure range.

#12: Post by **calcinai** » July 26th, 2016, 4:01 am

I know this question is a little old, but for what it's worth, I successfully managed to plumb in an Ulka vibration pump. Originally I was running with a float valve in the tank, but it was hard to clean an sounded like a toilet refilling!

I posted a while back when I was asking about returning the OPV, which I ended up feeding back into the reservoir with on issues. Didn't worry about plumbing in the drain since it needs cleaning every day anyway.

Modifying ECM Rocket to direct plumb-in

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · #13: Post by **erics** » July 27th, 2016, 4:27 pm

I do hope you used one of these parts which seals onto the suction side of the Ulka (or any other) pump. Pic is courtesy of EspressoParts.com.

This is a standard fitting on some high end machines fitted with a vibration pump and plumbed in.

#14: Post by **pizzaman383** » July 27th, 2016, 5:58 pm

jonr wrote:With the right regulator, house water pressure can be regulated down to a very slightly negative pressure. Ie, the vibe pump will have to suck just a little bit (less than drawing from an under-counter tank). This creates a system that is less likely to flood. Priming the pump might be necessary.

One can also do some re-plumbing with a check-valve and send both house water (at say 50 psi) and vibe pump output to the boiler - which ever is higher will have precedence. Of course this loses the safety of the first option. A dimmer or variac on the vibe pump would be more flexible.

I have run this way for several years.