So the replacement I got for this has seven wire connectors on it, but the existing one on the machine has eight. All the research I've done said that the Gicar part number beginning with NRL would work fine. Pics online of the Gicar box with the part number beginning with RL show it have seven wire connectors instead of the eight like the RL box on my machine.

This is confusing to me. What to do? Here's some pics:

(Oh, and my sincere gratitude for your responses)

Chad

For what it may be worth, here's a post with information on how your new one (9.1.40.71G) would typically be wired to a machine. The link in that post to the Quickmill wiring diagram might be the most useful.

But I admit the 8 connections on that existing controller has me bamboozled. I assume that your picture of the 9.1.00.95 is the cover of your existing controller. That diagram shows only 7 available connections. Look real close at that #2 connection - perhaps that's a piggyback spade and both of those connectors are connecting into the same place in the controller.



Hopefully erics or jpboyt will weigh in with an opinion. They both probably have experience with this controller (and I don't.)

Thanks so much for the linked to info and the thought on two possible linked wires. I'll have a look-see soon. I hope it's that easy!

Chad C. wrote:I hope it's that easy!

I'm pretty confident that a piggyback is causing the 7 pin connector to look like an 8 pin. See this catalog pic of that same controller (9.1.00.95G) with a bridging wire with piggyback attached.


But you'll still want to trace down where each wire of your old controller goes. Then it should be pretty easy to get them right on the new one. Also, it really looks to me like the wires on the existing one may not be connected correctly. Note that the blue bridge wire should bridge between the F and C terminals*, which would be the third pin from the end, the one with the yellow wire in your picture.



* F is Italian for Fase, or Phase, aka live or line. C is comune, which is the common side of the two NO (normally open) switches that energize the pump and solenoid when an autofill is called for.

In Europe, where your machine is from, Green/Yellow wire is ground, Blue is neutral and hot is brown and secondary hot is black. US the ground is green, neutral is white and primary hot is black. Trace your wires, do not assume. I have seen them wired almost arbitrarily before. They used whatever was handy.