by cannonfodder on Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:58 am
(Saturday Morning)
I am not having much luck with blind cupping, but it is not for lack of trying. The problem I have is that I am the only coffee drinker in the house and I know no one that knows anything about espresso that lives relatively close.
Indulge me as I tell my story...
This morning started out wonderful, except for that 5am call from work, stupid users. It was sunny and cool, a beautiful morning. I planned on doing some espresso cupping later in the day so decided to open up the grind on the Kony and make a pot of drip coffee with the Clarity.
I ran into a new annoyance with the Kony as I reset the grind for drip. I grabbed the adjustment pin on the color and proceeded to turn it one revolution. Whack! I forgot about the interlock on the back of the grinders hopper. You can not turn the adjustment ring 360 degrees because of the blade on the back of the hopper. You have to unscrew the adjustment pin, screw it in on the other side of the interlock, and then continue to turn the color. I have to say the grind looked very nice to the eye, better than my Mini.
I brewed up a pot of Brazil Fazenda Cachoeira Da Grama, the #16 Brazil COE winner. Wonderful cup. Sweet, smooth, not a hit of bitterness, floral, melon, maybe a touch of nut in the background. I could already tell it was going to be a good day.
After breakfast I did a thorough cleaning on my Elektra. I backflushed the machine, scrubbed the gasket and shower screen and soaked the portafilter and basket. It was spic and span and ready for action.
I opened a bag of Brazil Daterra from Caffe Fresco and split it between the Kony and Super Jolly. You really notice how huge those hoppers are when a half pound of coffee barely fills the bottom ¼. I dialed both grinders in to produce a 27 second shot give or take a second with a 16 gram dose. The Kony adjusted back from the morning drip with ease. Three shots and I had it spot on. The Super Jolly was more temperamental and took 5 shots to get it dialed in. I did a good water backflush, scrubbed off the shower screen and washed out the portafilter with some hot water and a towel in preparation for the cupping.
Let me step back one second before I get into the cupping. I was trying to address two hypothesis with this test. The first was that the Kony produced a brighter cup highlighting the more fruited flavors and providing better separation in the flavors while the Super Jolly produces a deeper cup with more muted fruit with an emphasis on the lower toned flavors. The second hypothesis was that there was indeed a difference between the Kony and Super Jolly in the cup. I selected the Daterra because it is a somewhat reserved coffee with a little fruit, mild acidity and mild body. If my hypothesis had a leg to stand on, I should be able to pick out which shot came from which grinder with ease. One last thing, I have not sampled this coffee from either of these grinders, and it has been months since I had a bag. So this was truly a blind test, I had no profile to fall back on.
So I got everything ready for the test. The wife is going to grind a sample from one of the two grinders and dose it into a ramekin that I had already weighed and zeroed out the scale. I went outside the house while she ground and dosed the sample. She called me back to the house. I put the ramekin on the scale and adjusted the dose to 16 grams. I filled my portafilter (using a spouted portafilter to hide any obvious differences in the crema) tamped, flushed, started the timer and my shot. I was pulling into a metered measuring cup so I could be sure I got the correct extraction and the correct time. 2 ounces in 27 seconds, good enough for me.
Somewhat bland, nutty with a little fruit in the background and a touch of floral, medium to medium-low acidity and medium body, a decent cup but not outstanding. I cleaned the cup, portafilter and machine then left the house so the wife could grind the second sample. The extraction was within one second of the previous, again good enough for me. Then I sampled. Smooth, floral, fruity, nut, nice acidity, medium body, creamy in the mouth and a little less body the previous shot. I note the first was the Super Jolly second was the Kony. I asked the wife which grinder was the first sample was from, 'the black one', I was on the money.
I was tempted to just stop there. There was that noticeable of a difference in the cup. I was not splitting hairs, there was a very obvious difference. As I had predicted, the shot that the Kony produced was much brighter with the higher toned floral and fruit notes taking center stage with the nut and body playing second fiddle. This was one of the best shots I have had from the Kony. It accentuated the high notes in the coffee, it was not harsh or sharp. The Super Jolly also performed as expected providing a mid toned cup accentuating the nut and even a little coco while the fruit and floral notes were there but not as strong or well defined. It was quite honestly a somewhat boring cup with plenty of body but missing the creamy mouth.
I cleaned up and we headed off to the store. Several hours later we got home. I fired up the Elektra and prepared to do another round of shots to see I could once again easily pick out the Kony.
Once again I go outside while the wife grinds my next sample. I walk around the pool, watch a squirrel in the tree, walk back around the pool, and put the cover on the grill. I think to myself what is taking so long. Finally she calls me back in. 'I turned it on and pulled the handle like you told me but nothing was coming out, so I let it run a little longer. Then a whole bunch came out at once'.
Houston, we have a problem. Never let someone that has only used a doser twice in their life run a commercial grinder. She emptied the entire hopper! A quarter pound of coffee shot to hell. I don't think she was pulling the doser level completely around so the flapper was not grabbing the spur on the hub and rotating the doser. She just stood there flapping in the wind. So I tell her she must not have pulled the doser handle all the way around. Mistake. 'Well I've never used one of those before but I did it just like you told me.' I don't think so hun, let me show you again (second mistake). Well, I never quite got that second round of cupping. I am sitting on the deck in the dark typing on the laptop. Oh bother.
So I will have to defer the blind cupping to others, but I most definitely got a different cup from each grinder and the resulting shot was easily identified. Now I know there are those that will complain that one sample is not statistically adequate, and it may not be, but I don't care. The cups were so different I don't feel the need to do it again, not that I could since she ground every bit of coffee that was in the Kony. I am talking white and red wine different here. At least my tomato plants have some good coffee for fertilizer, I wonder if I can get a mochamatos?
Dave Stephens