Over the last few weeks, we've looked at particle distributions, extraction solubles yields, and even scanning electron microscope photos as a means of correlating in-cup results with the grinders' physical metrics. Fascinating stuff!
A weekend's worth of pucks...
However, in the opening remarks of this thread, I posed the question that motivated this project: "What am I missing from a more modestly sized home unit, if anything, compared to big commercial grinders in use at the best cafes?" In other words, I believe the evaluation should focus on the results that a
typical HB member could expect to duplicate in their own home. I'm interested in how the choice of equipment can contribute to
realized benefits for the average home barista, not just
theoretical benefits only attainable by the innately skilled and highly initiated.
With that in mind, let's summarize the scores from my blind taste tests:
Round 1: Kony 3, Super Jolly 1
Round 2: Kony 2, Super Jolly 1, 1 tie
Round 3: Kony 2, Super Jolly 1
Round 4: Kony 0, Super Jolly 3
Round 5: Kony 1, Super Jolly 3
Overall: Kony 8, Super Jolly 9, 1 tie
This weekend was all Counter Culture Coffee's
Aficionado espresso blend:
When the modern espresso machine entered this milieu, the coffee blend of choice naturally reflected the Northern Italian taste: coffee flavors are balanced against one another; the natural sweetness of lightly roasted coffees offset their aromatic complexity and dance above a full-bodied foundation. The Northern Italian espresso would not be complete without a touch of fruity Eastern Ethiopian or Yemeni coffee, a reminder of the coffees traded by the Venetians. The final product is sophisticated and complex, and perfectly suited to the Northern Italian espresso ristretto and the traditional cappuccino. Espresso Aficionado evokes the marble countertops, rococo decor, and the sweet elaborate pastries and brioschi of the coffee bars of Venice, Milan, and Trieste.
We call our Northern Italian coffee blend Espresso Aficionado as a nod to the espresso purists who wax poetic over this, the most complex and challenging of the espresso styles. As with all lightly roasted espresso blends, it can be challenging to pull, and requires slightly hotter temperatures, say 203 degrees, to extract all its potential sweetness.
Aficionado is Counter Culture's "espresso purist" blend; La Forza is their chocolate bomb blend for milk drinks and Toscano is their popular sweet, nutty espresso blend. To keep things simple, most of the above scores were only preference of one over the other, but this weekend I scored each espresso using the SCAA scoring sheet. For example, a pair from yesterday:
Mazzer Super Jolly:
Crema appearance: 3.5
Crema persistence: 3.0
Tactile balance: 3.0
Taste balance: 3.0
Overall: 3.0
Mazzer Kony:
Crema appearance: 3.0
Crema persistence: 4.0
Tactile balance: 3.5
Taste balance: 3.5
Overall: 3.5
Prior to the start of the Titan Grinder Project, I thought the Kony would be the one to beat. Surprisingly, the Super Jolly has held its own round after round. Although the Kony won 8 of the blind taste matches, it was usually a close call, just as it was today where 0.5 point separated the two espressos. Does this mean then that it would be a waste of money to upgrade from a Mazzer Mini / Mazzer Super Jolly to one of the conicals represented in this review? Not necessarily. One difference that has been evident to me is the relative "forgiveness factor" of these two classes of grinders. I've not posted much about it, but I've had the Cimbali Max for the last few months on loan from T.J. and I've also logged a few months behind the Macap conical (it was a loaner from Chris Coffee as part of EspressoFest 2006 in Charlotte, NC that took the long scenic route through my kitchen on its way back to Albany

). In terms of the forgiveness factor I've been mulling over for months, my informal ranking is:
Mazzer Mini < (Mazzer Super Jolly | Cimbali Max) < (Macap conical | Mazzer Kony)
Note: I reserve the right to revisit this ranking. For example, the Jolly and Max / Macap and Kony could be switched in terms of pulling a proper extraction; they're very close. But in terms of
realized benefits for this barista, the more forgiving grinders represented in the TGP produced less sink shots and higher total scores than my usual grinder, the Mazzer Mini.
Concluding thoughts... Tuned to the optimal extraction, the Mazzer Super Jolly and Kony are very close. Maddeningly close. With some blends, especially those with booming chocolate notes, they were nearly indistinguishable. For lighter, more nuanced espresso blends, differences emerged, the Kony favoring greater separation of flavors and brighter, more citrus notes. These characteristics were the "tell" it was an extraction from the Kony. Although the Super Jolly and Kony frequently exchanged scores on tactile balance (i.e., does it feel full bodied, round, and viscous), I noted a more buttery mouthfeel to the Kony espressos, despite that the two espresso had similar weight on the tongue.