Tale of the Tape
The Rancilio Rocky is the most popular semi-commercial grinder among espresso enthusiasts by a long way; and it is easy to see why. It is internally identical to the commercial MD40 model, it feels very solid, and runs fast and quiet. All this for a price about $100 less than any small commercial grinder. I received the doserless model from Jeff Sawdy to try out, and even in this configuration, it runs quickly enough, around 1 second per gram, not to strain ones patience when doing a double shot. Finally, it has very little of the dreaded "doserless clumpfest." The grinds are about as usable as those from doser flat burr models.
However, this grinder has a small burr size, 50mm, and shorter grind path, 6.6mm, than even the Mini's 7.1mm. The burr size, and especially the length of the grind path, have been good predictors of how well a grinder will do against the Robur; so the short one makes it a distinct underdog.
The Fight
In the first two rounds, at 16.5 gram doses, the Rocky produced what I think of as over-dosed and under-extracted flavors, rough, not sweet enough, not creamy enough. In addition, there was a lingering bitterness in the aftertaste. The shots weren't horrible, or even bad; I had tried some on their own prior to testing, and thought them average. But compared to the Robur's, they came up very far short. The Rocky had better crema on the second round, but was still 12 points back after two rounds.
In the third round, at 13.5 grams, I got a surprise when I flipped over the IDs: the Rocky produced the creamier, more rounded shot. It was hard to decide whether it was a difference in taste or mouthfeel, so I scored it a half point each. The Rocky takes back 4 points going into the final round. Will it rival its namesake?
In the final round, also at 13.5 grams, one shot was massively seductive, a lot creamier and sweeter than the other, winning the round by a whopping 8 points. When I flipped over the IDs, it turned out to be the Rocky. I was shocked, but after the 3rd round, not all that surprised. So in true movie fashion, the Rocky comes in dead even, getting knocked out in the first two rounds, and delivering knock outs in the second two.
The Rocky has been in several grinder comparisons, and has always lost against the Mini and the Innova/Lux style conical grinders. This is not surprising, since the testers were making 17 to 18 gram doubles, and the Rocky pretty well sucks at that dose, the worst of all grinders tested. The big news for Rocky owners is that it is an absolutely terrific low dose grinder, the best of the group tested so far. So if you own one, get yourself used to making 12 to 14 grams shots. For prospective buyers, it's harder to give advice. Most Silvia/Rocky buyers seem to be looking for Vivace like shots; and this setup isn't even going to get into the same zip code, never mind close. But the Italian sized doubles from this combo were, quite simply, great.
BTW, these shots were made at a setting 1 click above the burr-touching zero point.
Detailed Scores
- Table:
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Grinder Dose Shot ExtG ExtR CPer CApp Flav Body Swee Acid Bitr Total
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Rocky 16.5 1.1 21.4 22.6 0 0 -1 -0.5 -1 0 2 -6
Rocky 16.5 1.1 22.6 22.0 1 1 -1 -0.5 -1.5 0 2 -6
Rocky 13.5 1.1 23.6 25.1 0 0 0.5 0.5 0.5 0 0 4
Rocky 13.5 1.1 22.1 23.6 1 -1 1.5 0.5 2 0 0 8
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Legend:
Shot: 0 is tight, 1 is good, 2 is loose, first figure is the test grinder, second the Robur. All shots run to 50mL with crema. If the time difference is more than 6 seconds, the test is redone. Tight/Loose mean differences of 4 to 5 seconds.
ExtG, ExtR: Percentage solubles extracted, G is the test grinder, R the robur
CPer, CApp: Crema persistence and appearance. Negative scores means the Robur wins, Positive means the Test grinder. These scores are added to the final tally
Flav, Bod: Flavor and Body. These scores are multiplied by four for the final tally.
Swee, Acid, Bitr: Sweetness, Acidity Bitterness: organoleptic categories NOT added to the score.
Total: The total score, CPer + CApp + 4*Flav + 4*Body
Running Score Sheet
- Table:
Grinder Score Rounds Won-Tied-Lost
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Nemox Lux -7 1-0-3
Mazzer Mini -15 0-0-4
Versalab M3 -10.5 2-0-2
Macap MXK +3 2-0-2
Macap M7K -3 1-1-2
Fiorenzato Doge -0.5 1-1-2
Compak WBC +1 1-1-2
Cimbali Max +4 2-0-2
Pede Manual -13 0-0-4
Mazzer Jolly -1.5 2-0-2
Rancilo Rocky 0 2-0-2
(Edited) Tomorrow, blind taste testing with Marc Klein





