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The Splendid Table: Bolognese barista explains great espresso

Beginner or pro barista, all are invited to share.

Link to "The Splendid Table: Bolognese barista explains great espresso"by HB on Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:40 pm

This past Sunday, I was driving home from the airport after a particularly dismal week of coffee. The radio was tuned to NPR, since I usually listen to the news on my evening commute, but rather than news, I listened to The Spendid Table: The Emilia-Romagna, Part 1 (direct link to audio).

This week we have the first of two shows recorded in Lynne's beloved Emilia-Romagna. This is the region of Italy that Italians consider their culinary jewel, the land of prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Lynne takes us behind the scenes as no one else can—into balsamic attics and kitchens of legendary country restaurants. She takes us to a town where people still set a place at table for the composer Verdi and his music spills out into the street.

Lynne's Go-To Guide to Emilia-Romagna takes us from a salumeria in Parma to a barista in Bologna, stopping along the way for a pasta class and a visit with an eel fisherman. A Rustic Celebration Supper from the Hills of Parma and Piacenza features a menu and recipes for a casual celebration supper selected by Lynne.

Around 8:30 into the show, the subject turns to espresso, where the speaker laments the trouble she's had finding a good coffee in Italy. A friend confides the location of a reliable cafe where a barista of 17 years explains the keys to exceptional espresso. I heartedly agree with all his comments. Well, except his assertion that the barista must moderate tamp pressure depending on the humidity. An interesting show and a good explanation of what makes an espresso great and what's needed to make a great espresso.
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Link to "The Splendid Table: Bolognese barista explains great espresso"by miKe mcKoffee on Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:18 pm

Thanks for the interesting post.
HB wrote: I heartedly agree with all his comments. Well, except his assertion that the barista must moderate tamp pressure depending on the humidity.
What I heard was for high humidy needing to grind coarser and tamp a bit harder, comparing to his usual very light tamp. Sounds pretty spot on to me and no way am I going to off the cuff disagree with his 17 years experience...
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Link to "The Splendid Table: Bolognese barista explains great espresso"by HB on Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:14 pm

Yes, I heard the same thing. Despite my comparative "newbie" status, I have not noticed a significant difference between pours tamped at different pressures, whether in North Carolina's dry winters or humid summers. But that doesn't mean I'm dismissing his assertion, just that it doesn't match my own experience.

PS: It's curious that he mentioned "the importance of the 3 M's", omitting mano dell'operatore, i.e., the barista.
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Link to "The Splendid Table: Bolognese barista explains great espresso"by miKe mcKoffee on Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:46 pm

HB wrote:Yes, I heard the same thing. Despite my comparative "newbie" status, I have not noticed a significant difference between pours tamped at different pressures, whether in North Carolina's dry winters or humid summers. But that doesn't mean I'm dismissing his assertion, just that it doesn't match my own experience.

PS: It's curious that he mentioned "the importance of the 3 M's", omitting mano dell'operatore, i.e., the barista.
Yeah, I noticed how he humbly omitted himself from the espresso equation.

Could be he was referring to more rapid extreme humidity changes that can occur in some locales during a single shift not gradually over time with changing seasons. Could also be his internal significant difference meter is tuned finer or differently. I'd suspect with 17 years daily volume shot experience his espresso dance is pretty much entirely intuitive these days. Be very interesting to spend some time chatting with him in person!
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