Shorter hopper and modifications on Mazzer Jolly or Robur?

[affas]

I would really like a Mazzer Jolly or Robur for my daily home use, but it is just too tall. Are there some really low hoppers I can use ?

And are there any good modifications to be done at this machines?

[Beezer]

A lot of people use the Super Jolly without a hopper on it. Just spoon the beans you need for each shot directly into the throat of the grinder. I think the Robur has a switch that prevents you from taking the hopper off and running it, although apparently it can be defeated. Check out the Titan Grinder Project reviews for more details.

You might also be able to use the hopper from the Mazzer Mini on the Super Jolly if you still want to use a hopper. Or cut down the SJ's hopper to a more manageable size if you're handy.

[HB]

I would really like a Mazzer Jolly or Robur for my daily home use, but it is just too tall. Are there some really low hoppers I can use ?

Prior to the ready-made shorter hoppers from Mazzer, I chopped down the stock one. Below are the instructions I wrote at the time for the Mazzer Mini, which can be easily adapted to any other hopper.

1. Place the hopper on the table and rotate it while holding a felt-tip pen at the cut height to make a straight and level line (the hopper should be just under 4" tall when finished -- see diagram below).
2. Wrap some tape around the outside just below the line.
3. Patiently cut with a hacksaw around the hopper. It is easier to make a small groove, move forward, continue the groove, cut a little more, and so on until you've cut a groove all around the circumference. Make a second and third pass to finish the cut. I found it easiest to cut with the hopper upside down on a rubber mat, cutting parallel to the table, one hand holding it firmly to the table, the other cutting with the hacksaw.
4. Borrow a variable speed belt sander with 120 grit sandpaper. Mount it upside down in a soft vice (I used my Black & Decker Shopmate bench). Turn it to its slowest speed, turn it on and press the "stay on" button. Now you've got a flat sanding surface.
5. Sand and rotate, sand and rotate. With each turn, remove the burrs. Don't take much off with each pass, maybe 1/16" - 1/8" max per pass. Check the fit after each pass. It took me about 20 minutes and 8-10 passes. I used the wide edge of needle-nose pliers to snap off those burrs that wouldn't easily break off by hand. Sand the trailing edge, i.e., the burrs should form on the outside edge where they are a lot easier to remove.
6. The final edge should be pretty smooth already. Finish it with a fine grit sandpaper, inside and out, being careful not to slip against the sides. Tape inside and out wouldn't be a bad idea to guard against slippage (yes, the hopper scratches very easily).
7. If you like a tight-fitting lid like I do, get a cabinet pullknob and drill a hole in the center of an extra doser lid. It is easier to take on and off by the knob and looks pretty snappy.

Start to finish, about 45 minutes of work. Don't rush, you'll scratch it. If you do, you can cheat like I did by redrilling the mounting hole so the scratched side faces the wall.

And are there any good modifications to be done at this machines?

The doser sweeps more efficiently with this minor modification.