SCAA Barista Competition - USBC 2007

[HB]

This year's competition was replete with top baristas from prior competitions, but only six could advance to the finals. I'll post the full report over the next few days with wonderful photos by Larry Licata, proud father of second place finisher Pete Licata.

1. Heather Perry
2. Pete Licata
3. Matt Riddle
4. Chris Deferio
5. Kyle Glanville
6. Peter Middlecamp

Heather Perry - First Place


Pete Licata - Second Place


Matt Riddle - Third Place


Chris Deferio - Fourth Place


Kyle Glanville - Fifth Place


Peter Middlecamp - Sixth Place

[HB]

Hometown: San Dimas, California
Competition Experience: Four time Western Regional Champion and two time US Champion.
Why I Compete: "I compete for a few different reasons. First of all, Competing pushes me to new heights and continues to push my limits and make me a better barista Secondly, I love the barista community, and competing is a big part of that community. And lastly, I am competitve and love the thrill of competition."
_________________


A colorful flower stem in a vase established the elegance of Heather's table, set with thick heavy bottomed glasses and fine linen. The music was springy and light too.


Heather Perry - Coffee Klatch Roasting

Heather served a three bean blend. Natural bourbon, Ethiopian for spice, berry, and wine. Sumatra for richness and body. The portafilter is updosed slightly with short rattles of the doser handle and two downdose taps.


Dose, distribute, tamp. Repeat.

She employs tight north/south sweeps to distribute. Technical judge Barry Jarrett watches for a level tamp.


Barry looks serious

Her concentration is intense while steaming the milk; once the milk is properly steamed and textured, Heather uses a tall and short pitcher for mixing to keep the foam even. The cappuccinos appear to have a nice crema ring and apple / heart design. She promises the judges tastes of cocoa from the crema, plus the sweetness of espresso and milk.


Almost all the competitors chose white cappuccino cups

Her signature drink, Espresso in the Clouds, includes sugar, cinnamon and ginger to complement the coffee's spice. Heather heats them with half and half and whole milk on a hotplate to allow these flavors to marry together. To create the cloud, she strains the mixture into a charger and adds lemon and whipped egg yolk.


Foams and gels were popular among this year's signature drinks

She creates a top layer by spooning and the bottom layer by letting the espresso "fall through the cloud". She instructs the judges to please drink it all to fully appreciate the texture, aroma, and of course taste of citrus, vanilla, and subtle spices.


Layers naturally develop as the heavier espresso "falls through the cloud"

[HB]

Hometown: Olathe, Kansas
Competition Experience: USBC was his third year competing, first time in the finals. Won first in the Midwest in 2005, second in 2006, and third this year.
Why I Compete: "I began competing to try and be the best. After I came to USBC the first time it turned into a love of the people and the coffee. I always want to do my best and feel great about what I do, but the awesome people are what really keep me coming back."
_________________


Pete prepared his table with a red embossed tablecloth, mirror accents and glassware, offering a clean, minimalist appeal that complemented his black chef's uniform with golden buttons and prominent PT's Coffee logo. His presentation would be a journey of coffee in the barista craft, which for him began with the discovery of that first shot of wonderful "espresso force".


Pete Licata - PT's Coffee

Short rotations while he overfilled the basket with four+ grams of coffee, followed by a quick level and two brief tamps with two taps.


Updosed coffee in basket is distributed then levelled

Pete espresso preparation was unorthodox: The shots were drawn into shotglasses and transferred to white demitasses. He explained this would help mix the drink's heavy and lighter notes. Judges were asked to taste the delicious chocolaty body, floral acidity, and warm lingering spice.


Espresso is drawn into shot glasses and transferred to demitasses

In keeping with the minimalistic elegance of his table setting, the milk was stored in a wine bucket and poured from a tall, narrow glass carafe.


Small flared tulip cappuccino cups

After cappuccinos, Pete prepared his Espresso Champagne signature drink. He drew three double shots into a silver gravy boat. As with the other espressos, Pete demonstrated his penchant for updosing. He then infused the six ounces of espresso, eight ounces of water, and one-quarter lemon before transferring the mixture to a carbon dioxide charger to create a velvety rich foam. The second part of the drink was composed of pomegranate juice, a simple syrup infused with juniper berries, and seltzer for effervescent.

Pete explained the drink would be light and refreshing, dancing across the palate. It naturally divided into layers. As a celebration of espresso, Pete shared in a toast to the judges, USBC, and other competitors.


Espresso Champagne

[HB]

Hometown: Chicago, Illinois, originally Indianapolis, Indiana
Competition Experience: 3rd at 2006 WBC; 1st, 3rd, 4th at USBC, 1st, 1st, 5th at GLRBC
Why I Compete: "I compete for the fact that I believe it helps promote baristas. I compete to get Specialty Coffee some attention, but also, it's my way of staying connected to my roots in the coffee industry. I started as a barista, moved to training and now design, so competition is not only fun for me, but helps keep me grounded."
_________________



Matt Riddle - Intelligentsia Coffee

Matt prepared a cream-colored table cloth with brown accents. The background music was heavy rhythmic vocals, which added a sense of intensity. It was almost a haunting melody. He began by saying "We're all here for coffee, obviously, but we're also here to share our love and passion. Enjoying coffee with friends and no strings." Matt then prepared his espressos, promising chocolate flavor from the Brazilian coffees and a Colombian coffee with light acidity and darker roasted to elicit cherry sweetness.

One trademark of the Intelligentsia baristas is their attention to detail and efficiency. For example, Matt's work area was kept clean from start to finish because he would use time immediately after the extraction started to do things like brushing errant grinds into the trash. Technical judges are looking for any oversight; a wiped steam wand isn't enough. It must be wiped clean, front and back. The pucks must be of the same firm consistency and devoid of signs of channeling.


Yes, Barry always looks that serious when tech judging

Before placing each drink on its saucer, Matt lightly dried the bottom of the cup. The cappuccinos were poured latte art style and served directly from a round tray to the judges (most competitors choose to place the tray on the table to serve; a faux pas by even modest restaurant standards).


Sensory judges are instructed to waste no time sampling the competitor's drink

Matt's signature drink was an espresso cocktail. It began with candied ginger preserved with sugar and water. Matt sliced limes with a large chef's knife while waiting for judges to evaluate the last set. This is a smart move, since a lull in commentary gave the judges ample time to fully evaluate his drinks.

Using classic bartender tools, Matt mixed the ingredients with a martini shaker and then used a seltzer bottle for carbonation, creating a smooth, lively finish. He explained that the seltzer re-energizes the crema and instructed the judges to take the lime and swirl it in the drink to incorporate freshness into an already refreshing drink.

Matt finished the drink preparation portion of his performance with over 1m30 remaining.


Espresso cocktail prepared with traditional bartender tools

[HB]

Hometown: Ithaca, New York
Competition Experience: 2005 USBC 17th place, 2006 USBC 9th place, 2007 North East Regional Champion.
Why I Compete: "I think for me it boils down to honoring God with the gifts you are given. When it comes to competing I really love the opportunity to join with other baristas and celebrate coffee on a creative and disciplined level. As a creative person I have always needed a little more effort when it came to being disciplined in one thing or another. The competitions are a great way to build discipline while simultaneously encouraging creativity. You are willingly submitting your craftsmanship to be judged and therefore must check your pride at the door and be open to feedback in order to grow in your craft. It is a one of a kind opportunity that I really appreciate, I've grown to be a better barista because of it.

When I approach competitions my main goal is not necessarily to win although I would like to grow to that level. Most people don't win. But it is to do my best and to bring something excellent before God, the judges, and my peers. As baristas we represent coffee...a drink that is more than just a commodity it is representative of life's deeper mysteries. Shared by people world wide it is a part of the fabric of culture itself. So to simply compete to win would be to lose the greater reward of perspective.

I am so blessed to be a part of this thing called coffee and as I start to think of next years competition and reflect back on this past one I am excited to see what new things I will learn and thankful for all the things I have learned and experienced so far.
'And whatever you do, do it heartily as unto the Lord and not to men.' Colossians 3:23 "
_________________



Chris Deferio - Carriage House Cafe

Judging from Chris and many other competitors' wardrobe choice, black is the new color in barista fashion. His setting was a wood plank across the table, straight sided glasses, brown napkins, white flared sugar bowls; it set the mood of simplicity, complemented by music of gentle violin and guitar.

Chris explained that his espresso is a "friends' blend": Four different coffees from four friends. He dosed coffee with a short rattle on the doser and thumb return. His technique includes a slight updose with north/south swipe and short Stockfleths move. Tamped with a single tap and twist.


Quick distribution with north/south sweep

As he prepared his espresso, he elaborated on how a blend is give and take, like with people. Each part of the coffee loses part of itself for the better. He said the judges would notice the soft, open brightness from Kenya, with other coffees contributing tropic fruit and a chocolaty, light smoky finish.

He used a specialty milk with 4% milk fat, which carries espresso nicely while adding complimentary body. Like most competitors, drinks were prepared in pairs. He poured heart shaped latte art ("because I love you" he joked to the judges) and narrow low volume white tulip cappuccino cups. By Deferio standards, quite ordinary pours; perhaps he wished to emphasis the drink's taste over appearance? Nice dark crema ring.


No fussing over fancy latte art

For the signature drink, "Campfire", Chris again evoked the theme of community and coffee, as friends would be gathered around a campfire. The drink featured chocolate ganache with cream heated over a Sterno, hickory smoked vanilla bean, split and chopped. Espresso served overtop. In an unexpected twist, he used a "smoking gun" device to infuse the drink in smoke.


Smoke infused drinks as tribute to campfire and friends

The granite slab coaster and dark cup were covered with a glass and he used the device to fill the glass with essence of campfire. Comfort of something familiar, lingerer memories of friendship. Chris' performance evoked a strong sense of mood. He instructed judges to lift glasses at once.


White globes behind water glasses are smoke-filled enclosures of signature drink

[HB]

Hometown: Carmel Valley, California
Competition Experience: Placed nearly last in the 2005 NWRBC and second in 2007. This was Kyle's first USBC.
Why I Compete: "It's a fun challenge and a great learning experience."
_________________


Although the new rules allow competitors to set the table before the clock starts, Kyle choose to lay out his pale yellow tablecloth and service items before them to purposely create a setting. To compliment his performance, he chose music with a hard bass rhythm and no vocals.


Kyle Glanville - Intelligentsia Coffee

Kyle then went on to describe the coffee of his espresso, a single origin Brazil pulp natural Bourbon. The judges were told to expect a beautiful citrus complexity, milk chocolate and lingering sweetness. The baskets were dose to 17 grams of coffee. The camera zoomed in on the drippy pour; it looked like ristretto range, a languid start that later sped up.

He suggested they swirl the espresso before drinking to mix in the sweetness at the bottom of the cup.


Richly colored pours of single origin espresso

For the cappuccinos, Kyle used Intelligentsia's signature blend, Black Cat, known for its dark chocolate sweetness. He used more coffee for cappuccinos than the espressos, I would guess about 22 grams, pouring hearts in each cappuccino. As with most of the other competitors, he transferred between a smaller and larger pitcher to help even the amount of foam used for each drink.


White tulips with low volume and nice rich looking crema rings

As he served the cappuccinos, Kyle reminded the judges to expect dark mocha and sweetness.


Judges sample the espresso round

Kyle began his signature drink early in the routine by cutting Valencia oranges and juicing them by hand over heat. He later added raw sugar, whipped the mixture, and then heated it to reduce.


Squeezing fresh orange juice for signature drink

Kyle used huge overdosed baskets, tamping the rounded mound instead of leveling like other baristas. His routine was one of purposeful, calm flow. He added cream to the reduction; the citrus and creme reduction was topped with citrus zest. The judges' first sip would be citrus aroma, then sweet, thick warm custard.


Served in oval rich wood tray matching the darkness of his espresso middle layer

Kyle finished his routine with over one minute to spare even after dumping one shot.

[HB]

Hometown: South Saint Paul, Minnesota
Competition Experience: First and only, USBC 2007.
Why I Compete: "To hone my skills, and get feedback on our espresso blend. To learn from and spend time with the people, the baristas really are an inspiring group of people, fanatically dedicated and fiercely individual. Also, to pay homage to the farmers, producers, importers. Sometimes serving drinks can become disconnected from the source, from the inspiration, to get involved and compete is to reconnect with the people closer to the sources of your coffee."
_________________


Peter was crisply dressed in black and black tie, which complemented the arrangement of silver, black, and white accessories on his prep area and service table.


Peter Middlecamp - Black Sheep Coffee Cafe

The centerpiece composed of sprigs of green garden plants contrasted the elegant, tall glasses.


Elegant, simple decor

He began by describing the components of his espresso, Espresso Reserve from Paradise Roasters. It was such an explosion of descriptors, so rapidly and clearly enunciated, I will not attempt to summarize. Peter has previous experience as an actor and it showed in the confidence of his presentation, thought he did get a little ahead of himself compared to his earlier rounds.

Peter evidently loves to updose; the huge pile literally touched the bottom of doser. He used stylish black cappuccino cups by Terra Keramik.


His concentration during this pour was palpable

He explained that the milk was from from a coop north of the conference location; where possible, he tries to use local ingredients. While slowly pouring one of the cappuccinos, he commented, "I don't think I've ever poured milk so deliberately in my life."


Sensory judge samples Peter's cappuccinos

His signature drink was an espresso with components of basil. He shared the origins of this drink through an amusing and touching story of his childhood, where he as a child dug up his mother's garden, much to her chagrin. Together they prepared a wonderful salad from the vegetables he had ripped from the garden and dumped on the floor of her kitchen. She patiently explained the importance of their freshness and the memory of that meal remains with Peter.

In addition to the basil infused whipped cream as a tribute to his mother's garden, he added homemade caramel with molasses, condensed milk, and organic dark brown sugar.


Caramel, whipped cream infused with basil, dark brown sugar prior to adding espresso

Even though Peter's opening comments required almost two minutes, he managed to finish ahead of time.

[terrakeramik]

Has anyone seen the final order and points for each of the competitors posted anywhere? There are a few comments on various boards that the semi-final was tightly scored, but we haven't seen the results...also curious to see where the competitors that may have been affected by a possible middle group mal-function placed in the semi-finals. HB, thanks for the wonderful photos of the finalists!

[barrrrista]

I was fortunate enough to be present at this event and I have to say, it was awesome through and through. I have never witnessed a more stellar competition. Everyone, from the preliminary round to the finals, was an amazing barista no matter the circumstances.

As a friend of Pete's I just wanted to congratulate him for his all star performance. Having trained for months seems to have paid off.... Those shots look awesome and crazy red, but that's La Bella Vita espresso has always been a bit of a red head.

Heather, Matt, Chris, Kyle, and that other Pete....you guys are awesome and totally down to earth. I'm very happy for every one of you and, of course, congrats Boot Girl!

Holly Bastin
http://www.ptscoffee.com

[HB]

Has anyone seen the final order and points for each of the competitors posted anywhere?

* When a tie occurs the USBC will break the tie by counting how many "6's" and "5's" each competitor received
from the judges. The competitor with the most top scores will win and break the tie.

[terrakeramik]

Thanks Dan for the results. Incredible that less than 8 points separates no. 2 from no. 5. We also heard that several competitors' points dropped significantly from the open round to the semi-final round.

BTW, SCAA still does not have the complete results posted on their public website as of May 18 - a full 10 days after the competition ended.

[HB]

Congratulations to all the competitors! This wraps up my notes and Larry Licata's great photos of the 2007 SCAA US Barista Championship. A last photo of the top three competitors:


Heather Perry (c), Pete Licata (l), Matt Riddle (r)

And finally, a photo of the master of ceremony, Nick Cho:

[Nick]

Ugh. That's it.

I'm starting a diet... now.

[cannonfodder]

The little LM trophies are nifty.

[HB]

I noticed that Pete Licata joined HB today and have to ask...

Pete espresso preparation was unorthodox: The shots were drawn into shotglasses and transferred to white demitasses. He explained this would help mix the drink's heavy and lighter notes. Judges were asked to taste the delicious chocolaty body, floral acidity, and warm lingering spice.


Espresso is drawn into shot glasses and transferred to demitasses

Pete, I'm curious. Wouldn't transferring from shot glasses as reported lose points on the crema's color / consistency / persistence score? I don't recall anyone doing this in competition, let alone the USBC finals. Would you elaborate on the benefits?

[cpl593h]

The little LM trophies are nifty.

I heard that Reg Barber manufactured them.

[luca]

I noticed that Pete Licata joined HB today and have to ask...

Pete espresso preparation was unorthodox: The shots were drawn into shotglasses and transferred to white demitasses. He explained this would help mix the drink's heavy and lighter notes. Judges were asked to taste the delicious chocolaty body, floral acidity, and warm lingering spice.

<image>
Espresso is drawn into shot glasses and transferred to demitasses

Pete, I'm curious. Wouldn't transferring from shot glasses as reported lose points on the crema's color / consistency / persistence score? I don't recall anyone doing this in competition, let alone the USBC finals. Would you elaborate on the benefits?

I'm not Peter, but I'll offer my take ...

Have you noticed the difference in flavour between the first sips of an espresso and the very last? The top of the cup is where the 'spro starts to thin out, whereas the bottom has more ristretto-like qualities. Now ask yourself how many times you have sipped the bottom of an espresso when judging. I'm guessing that the idea is to mix it all together. Of course, this wouldn't be necessary in a cafe because your customers will (you hope!) finish the whole thing. But I wonder if directing the judges to stir the espresso thoroughly before tasting it wouldn't have the same effect, without losing as many points for crema ...

Cheers,

Luca

[another_jim]

"Swirl before drinking" was a popular instruction to judges this year; for the same reason apparently.

[ThePete]

Pete, I'm curious. Wouldn't transferring from shot glasses as reported lose points on the crema's color / consistency / persistence score? I don't recall anyone doing this in competition, let alone the USBC finals. Would you elaborate on the benefits?

I'm glad you asked Dan. Luca is pretty right on with what he said. Espresso is a layered drink when you think about it, and "flipping" the shot is something that we at PT's came up with especially for tasting at the barista competition this year. If you haven't done it before try pulling a shot between 3 separate shot glasses filling 10ml in each until the extraction is done. If you taste them, you should find the first 10ml to be very sweet and heavy, second hits more acid and body, and third is quite thin in comparison with more of the floral and bitter notes. Now think about how the shot pours and you see that the thin, less preferable flavors are in the first sip. I have to thank our roaster Marty Gish for the initial idea for flipping the shot. Back to your actual question, we did have issues with losing crema points when practicing this method. What it came down to in my mind is speed of service. You don't want your shots to sit anyway, but just stepping up my haste helped preserve the color and persistence of crema. In fact, one of my judges in the finals wrote "great crema!" on my score sheet. So in my opinion, the gain on the flavor side completely outweighed a very small loss if any on the crema components. I would encourage everyone to try the "PT's flip" as we have been calling it. Pull a double shot, one straight into a demi and the other into a preheated shot glass and pour it into a second demi and try them side by side. Doing a blind tasting is even better. You might just be amazed that both shots, especially on that first sip, came from the same portafilter. On a final note, I don't feel that this is a step that should always be done especially at a cafe. As I said before, espresso is a layered drink and I find that part of the enjoyment is tasting the changing flavors as you drink it down.


Pete

[mikep]

Thanks Dan, for the best coverage of the USBC!

Did you (or anyone else who could reply) catch Eton Tsuno's performance? I heard (pf.net) that his judges could not be vegetarian. I know at the GLRBC he was working on a savory drink, did this one include meat?

From Flickr photos, Scott Lucey appeared to include the Ethiopian coffee ceremony in his signature beverage- were the beans ground by mortar and pestle? Was there an espresso element? (was the hall equipped with smoke detectors?! )